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#1 Vit

Vit

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Publikováno 8.červen.2018 - 13:26

o Grand SEIKO:

https://www.watchtim...tm_medium=email

 

O Chronomagu:

https://www.lupa.cz/...webove-servery/


Tento příspěvek byl upraven od Vit: 8.červen.2018 - 13:28

Autor zastává myšlenku, kterou zároveň vyvrací.

 

Plavecké: Timex Ironman
Vintage: Prim, Doxa, Digitálky Lucerne, Seiko 5
Kapesní: patent Remontoir, Thiel, Omega, Doxa

HISTORIE:
Precista "ITALIAN" - PRS-20, Poljot Navigator alarm, Omega Geneve, Eterna Matic 1948, Alpha skeleton, Rainer Brand Panama, Vintage Doxa náramkkové, Waltham, Vintage Doxa náramkové z kapesních, Oris Artelier Big Date, Kemmner Marine, Precista PRS-9 CAF, LÜM-TEC V1, Seagull 1963, Edox Les Bemonts, Dievas Flieger, Frederique Constant WORLDTIMER, Zenith Port Royal V Dual Time, Tissot Heritage Chronometre, Glycine Airman 1953 LE, Breitling Navitimer, Perrelet Turbine,
 

PRODÁVÁM

Nic, sám mám málo.


ZAJÍMAVOSTI
Hod. ikony a jejich vyzyvatelé, Milníky značky RolexBRONZOVÁ L.E. Lum-Tec , LUM TEC RR2 ,LÜM-TEC B34,

Přeložil jsem knihu ROLEX SUBMARINER STORY a pracuji na překladu knihy STORY ROLEX EXPLORER, TURN-O-GRAPH (DATEJUST), MILGAUSS A YACHT MASTER do češtiny. Pokud by jste měli zájem, ozvěte se mi, ukázky ZDE.


#2 Vit

Vit

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Publikováno 12.červen.2018 - 14:05

Die 15 schönsten Dress-Watches Welche elegante Uhr trägt der Mann am Abend?


am 12. Juni 2018

Die meisten Uhren sind auf irgendeine Weise sportlich. Aber was trägt der Mann am Abend in der Oper oder bei sonstigen festlichen Anlässen? Dann wählt man besser eine elegante Uhr passend zur Kleidung. Die 15 schönsten Dress-Watches im Überblick:

 

Dress-Watch #1: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Großdatum

So sieht die A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Großdatum in Rotgold am Handgelenk aus.

Bei A. Lange & Söhne steht die fast gesamte Kollektion zur Auswahl, wenn ein eleganter Zeitmesser gesucht wird. Denn seit jeher fertigen die Glashütter ihre Uhren mit Gehäuse aus Edelmetallen wie gold oder Platin. Durch ihr klar gestaltetes, am Zentrum ausgerichtetes Zifferblatt war die Saxonia schon immer die klassische Alternative zur Lange 1. Die aktuelle Saxonia Großdatum in Rotgold mit schwarzem Zifferblatt wirkt trotz Datumasfenster und kleiner Sekunde sehr elegant, was auch an ihrem Gehäusedurchmesser von 38,5 Millimetern liegt.

Gehäuse: Rotgold, 38,5 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: L086.8, Automatik | Preis: 24.500 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #2: Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic

Baume & Mercier: Clifton Baumatic in Edelstahl mit blauem Lederband

Es muss jedoch nicht immer nur Gold und Platin sein. Auch Edelstahl wirkt elegant. So wie bei der neuen, sehr zurückhaltend gestalteten Clifton Baumatic von Baume & Mercier. Lediglich drei Zeiger und eine Datumsanzeige sind auf dem weißen, porzellanartigen Zifferblatt zu finden.  Mit ihrer Gehäusegröße von 40 Millimetern misst die Dreizeigeruhr schlanke 10,3 Millimeter in der Höhe.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, 40 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: Baumatic BM12-1975A, Automatik | Preis: 2.450 Euro; mit Chronometerzertifikat: 2.600 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #3: Montblanc Heritage Spirit Date Automatic

Montblanc Heritage Spirit Date Automatic

Die Marke Montblanc steht für Eleganz. Und die Heritage Spirit Date Automatic macht da keine Ausnahme: Rotgoldgehäuse mit schmaler Lünette, guillochiertes Zifferblatt mit römischer Zwölf und klassische Dauphinzeiger.

Gehäuse: Rotgold, 39 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: Sellita SW 300, Automatik | Preis: 6.890 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #4: Junghans Max Bill sandfarben

Die Max Bill Automatic von Junghans mit sandgoldfarbener PVD-Beschichtung.

Der Designklassiker aus Schramberg darf in dieser Übersicht nicht fehlen: 1961 hat der Bauhaus-Schüler, Architekt und Designer Max Bill diese Uhr für Junghans entworfen. Längst ist sie zur Ikone geworden und es gibt sie in verschiedenen Ausführungen – als Automatikversion, mit Handaufzug und als Chronograph. Neu ist die Gehäusevariante mit einer PVD-Beschichtung, die von der Marke als sandfarben bezeichnet wird.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, PVD-beschichtet 38 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: Eta 2824, Automatik | Preis: 995Euro

 

Dress-Watch #5: Sinn 1746 Heimat

Am Handgelenk: Die 1746 Heimat von Sinn Spezialuhren

Römische Ziffern, ein silberfarbens Zifferblatt mit rautenförmigem Relief und lediglich zwei Zeiger. Das lässt so gar nicht auf die Uhrenmarke Sinn schließen, ist sie doch eher für ihre Einsatzzeitmesser bekannt. Die neue Dresswatch 1746 Heimat ist jedoch bei Weitem nicht die erste elegante Uhr aus Frankfurt. Das elegante Edelstahlmodell passt mit seiner Gehäusegröße von 42 Millimeter und gerade einmal 9,4 Millimetern in der Höhe spielend unter jede Hemdmanschette.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, 42 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: Eta 2892, Automatik | Preis: 1.890 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #6: Longines Record

Longines: Record

 Mit der im letzten Jahr eingeführten Kollektion Record bietet Longines Frauen und Männern schlichte Dreizeigeruhren mit einer Datumsanzeige. Verschiedene Gehäusegrößen und Zifferblattvarianten mit römischen oder arabischen Ziffern oder lediglich Stabindexen ermöglichen eine ganz individuelle Auswahl – je nach Anlass und Kleidung. Die Kombination von römischen Ziffern und dem sanft aus dem Gehäuse hervorgehenden Edelstahlband dieser 38,5 Millimeter großen Record wirkt sehr stilvoll.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, 38,5 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: Eta A31.L11, Automatik | Preis: 1.990 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #7: Tutima Patria Gangreserve

Tutima: Patria Gangreserve

Die klassisch gestaltete Patria von Tutima erhält in diesem Jahr eine Gangreserveanzeige. Die Anzeige fügt sich bei neun Uhr elegant in das fein versilberte Zifferblatt ein. Über diesem drehen von Hand gefertigte Zeiger aus Rotgold ihre Runden. Die Patria Gangreserve wird vom Handaufzugskaliber Tutima 618 mit 65 Stunden Gangautonomie angetrieben.

Gehäuse: Rotgold, 43 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: Tutima 618, Handaufzug | Preis: 16.000 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #8: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic

Trotz ihrer beiden Kronen und der unterschiedlichen Formen der Zifferblattveredlung wirkt die neue Polaris Automatic schlicht und elegant. Dazu trägt entscheidend die schmale Lünette und der Retro-Charakter bei. Das Basismodell der neuen Polaris-Kollektion von Jaeger-LeCoultre kann je nach Gelegenheit am schwarzen oder braunen Lederband oder am Edelstahlband getragen werden.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, 41 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: JLC 898/1, Automatik | Preis: 6.700 Euro (Kalbslederband)

 

Dress-Watch #9: Patek Philippe Weltzeituhr

Patek Philippe: Complication Referenz 5230

Patek Philippe steht wie kaum eine zweite Marke für klassische Eleganz. 2016 haben die Genfer ihre beliebte Weltzeituhr überarbeitet und dabei Gehäuseform, Zifferblatt und Zeiger verändert. Auch die Zeitzoneneinteilungen wurden aktualisiert.

Gehäuse: Weißgold, 38,5 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: 240 HU, Automatik | Preis: 42.850 Euro 

 

Dress-Watch #10: Mido Baroncelli 100th Anniversary Limited Edition

Die Mido Baroncelli Sonderedition für Herren besitzt ein elfenbeinfarbenes Zifferblatt.

Dass elegant nicht gleich teuer sein muss zeigt Mido mit der Sonderedition Baroncelli 100th Anniversary Limited Edition zum 100. Geburtstage der Marke. Das schlanke Edelstahlgehäuse mit roségoldfarbener PVD-Beschichtung misst 38 Millimeter im Durchmesser und folgt dem Trend zur kleineren Uhr für den Herrn. Das schlanke Gehäuse rutscht problemlos unter die Hemdmanschette. Auf dem elfenbeinfarbenen, lackierten Zifferblatt befindet sich die Datumsanzeige bei drei Uhr gegenüber der Jubiläums-Aufschrift; bei sechs Uhr ist die kleine Sekunde untergebracht.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, roségoldfarbene PVD-Beschichtung, 38 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: Eta 2825-2 | Preis: 970 Euro, limitert auf 1.918 Stück

 

Dress-Watch #11: Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panoramadatum

Glashütte Original: Senator Excellence Panoramadatum in Blau

Die Senator Excellence Panoramadatum von Glashütte Original versprüht mit ihrem blau galvanisierten Zifferblatt mit Strahlenschliff, den markanten weißgoldenen Indexen und den schwertförmigen Zeigern pure Eleganz. Das Panoramadatum fügt sich wunderbar in das Erscheinungsbild ein. Angetrieben wird die vornehme Uhr vom Manufakturkaliber 36-03 mit Automatikaufzug.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, 42 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: 36-03, Automatik | Preis: 9.200 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #12: IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years”

IWC: Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years” in Rotgold

Gebläute Zeiger, ein weiß lackiertes Zifferblatt und ein Gehäuse aus Rotgold – das Sondermodell der Portugieser zum 150-jährigen Bestehen von IWC überzeugt durch ihr reduziertes Erscheinungsbild und hochwertige Materialien. Von der eleganten Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years” in Rotgold mit acht Tagen Gangautonomie gibt es lediglich 250 Exemplare.

Gehäuse: Rotgold, 43 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: 59215, Handaufzug | Preis: 18.700 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #13: Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Automatik

Vacheron Constantin: Fiftysix Automatik Roségold

Vacheron Constantin erinnert mit der neuen Kollektion Fiftysix an ein Modell aus dem Jahr 1956. Die Designer haben die Uhr jedoch sehr modern interpretiert: Herausgekommen ist eine zeitlos, eleganter Zeitmesser, der sich durch seine abgerundeten Gehäusekanten und Bandanstöße perfekt ans Handgelenk schmiegt.

Gehäuse: Roségold, 42 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: 1326, Automatik| Preis: 19.800 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #14: Zenith Elite Classic

Zenith: Elite Classic in Edelstahl

Schlanke Zeiger und Indexe, ein schlichtes Zifferblatt und ein Gehäusedurchmesser von 39 Millimetern und machen die Elite Classic zu einer klassischen Dress-Watch. Mit einer Höhe von 9,45 Millimetern gehört sich noch zu den flachen Uhren. Das Edelstahlgehäuse kombiniert Zenith mit einem grauen Zifferblatt im Sonnenschliff. Das im Innern verbaute Manufakturkaliber bietet eine Gangautonomie von 50 Stunden.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, 39 Millimeter | Uhwerk: Elite 679, Automatik | 4.900 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #15: Omega Seamaster 1948 Small Seconds

Omega: Seamaster 1948 mit Zentralsekunde

Omega kann beides: sportlich und elegant. Das beweist die Seamaster 1948 mit Zentralsekunde einmal mehr. Sie ist eine Hommage an die erste Seamaster-Serie von 1948. Ihr 38 Millimeter großes Gehäuse aus Edelstahl kommt mit einer polierter Lünette. Auf dem opalsilbernem, gewölbten Zifferblatt mit eingeprägtem „Ω“ ziehen diamantpolierte Zeiger aus 18-karätigem Weißgold ihre Runden.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, 38 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: Master Chronometer 8806, Automatik| Preis: 5.700 Euro, limitiert auf 1.948 Stück

 

ZDROJ


Autor zastává myšlenku, kterou zároveň vyvrací.

 

Plavecké: Timex Ironman
Vintage: Prim, Doxa, Digitálky Lucerne, Seiko 5
Kapesní: patent Remontoir, Thiel, Omega, Doxa

HISTORIE:
Precista "ITALIAN" - PRS-20, Poljot Navigator alarm, Omega Geneve, Eterna Matic 1948, Alpha skeleton, Rainer Brand Panama, Vintage Doxa náramkkové, Waltham, Vintage Doxa náramkové z kapesních, Oris Artelier Big Date, Kemmner Marine, Precista PRS-9 CAF, LÜM-TEC V1, Seagull 1963, Edox Les Bemonts, Dievas Flieger, Frederique Constant WORLDTIMER, Zenith Port Royal V Dual Time, Tissot Heritage Chronometre, Glycine Airman 1953 LE, Breitling Navitimer, Perrelet Turbine,
 

PRODÁVÁM

Nic, sám mám málo.


ZAJÍMAVOSTI
Hod. ikony a jejich vyzyvatelé, Milníky značky RolexBRONZOVÁ L.E. Lum-Tec , LUM TEC RR2 ,LÜM-TEC B34,

Přeložil jsem knihu ROLEX SUBMARINER STORY a pracuji na překladu knihy STORY ROLEX EXPLORER, TURN-O-GRAPH (DATEJUST), MILGAUSS A YACHT MASTER do češtiny. Pokud by jste měli zájem, ozvěte se mi, ukázky ZDE.


#3 Vit

Vit

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Publikováno 29.červen.2018 - 07:39

Hezký článek o tazích.

Myslím ale, že tam chybí IWC Ing. - za mě zatím to nejpropracovanější a uživatelsky nejříjemnější z toho, co jsem poznal.

 

ZDROJ S FOTKAMI

 

Top 10 Best Watch Bracelets

I’ve been into watches since the 1990s and started Fratello in 2004. Ever since I’ve seen a lot of different watch bracelets. It always amazed me that only a few watch brands are getting it ‘right’ with these bracelets. Sometimes, they look gorgeous but wear like crap. And other times, the looks aren’t very attractive but wear fantastic. It is a very personal and thus subjective matter of course, but let me share with you the best watch bracelets in my book.

 

1. Rolex President

The King, euh, President, of all bracelets as far as I am concerned. Only available in precious metals like white gold, yellow gold, red (Everose) gold and platinum. It consists of three semi-circular links per row and a concealed clasp (with a Rolex crown). A super comfortable bracelet, elegant looking and masculine at the same time. It was specifically designed for the Day-Date models (introduced in 1956). Since a couple of US presidents wore the Rolex Day-Date (on President bracelet), the entire watch was nicked ‘Rolex President’ and for some, it still is the Rolex President. I keep it at Day-Date with a President bracelet, as it was also available with another bracelet (Super-Oyster). The President is leading the best watch bracelets overview.

 

2. Rolex Jubilee

There is no single doubt in my mind that this is one of the best watch bracelets in the world. It combines looks and comfort and the most recent models have Rolex’ Easylink system to slightly adjust the clasp. Former models just had a couple of holes in the clasp, that you could resize yourself using a toothpick. Also worked fine. But the Easylink system is just genius. The Jubilee bracelet was introduced in 1945, for the launch of the Rolex Datejust in that year. Meanwhile, the Jubilee bracelet also has been used for other Rolex models. This bracelet is like silk on your wrist.

 

3. Rolex Oyster

This Rolex bracelet even goes further back in time, and find its roots in the 1930s. It is a very easy to wear bracelet, very comfortable and it doesn’t draw much attention (if you have the all-stainless version with three brushed links). It also has an adjustable clasp (Easylink system) so you can shorten or extend the bracelet a bit, depending on the weather. This is probably also one of the most copied bracelet designs in the world. The Jubilee bracelet is more supple than the Oyster, but the latter is perhaps more versatile. Below, the Oyster bracelet in steel and Everose gold of the 2018 GMT-Master II Root Beer.

 

4. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

One of the most exciting bracelets to own and wear is one of the Royal Oak watches. I would even go a bit further and say that part of the fun in wearing a Royal Oak is the bracelet. It is well-made, beautifully finished, and very comfortable. When you look at the bracelet for the first time, you might think that it is a bit stiff and sharp. But that isn’t the case, it is a well-designed and engineered bracelet, with a stunning appearance. The brushed surfaces combined with the polished facets are beautiful. The clasp consists of the initials of this manufacturer.

 

5. Patek Philippe Nautilus

A bit more refined and smoother than the Royal Oak bracelet, but less outspoken. The double clasp with safety lock is easy to use. The larger parts of the links are brushed while the centre parts are polished. People who can’t stand scratches should back away from it or live with the fact that it will get marks on there. The watch head and bracelet are integrated you could say, but not as nice as on the Audemars Piguet. This bracelet does look a bit more sophisticated that AP’s one though. A matter of taste really. There is little to criticize this level of watchmaking.

 

6. Ebel Wave

I kid you not, I had to check whether this brand was still alive and active. Awkward. It seems they are now only producing ladies watches. However, back in the day, this was a cool brand in my opinion. I wonder how they could have messed it up so badly. Anyway, their Ebel Chronograph watches with El Primero movement were awesome. Even Don Johnson sported one in Miami Vice. The bracelets on the Ebel Wave model were something else, perhaps still are. The flat stainless steel bracelet with the wave pattern did not only look good, it was very comfortable as well. The downside used to be how it was attached to the case, with two screws from below.

 

7. Mesh

Not entirely fair, as I am talking generic mesh bracelets here. But the good thing is, you can find them basically anywhere in different sizes, so you can add them to your watch. The mesh is so smooth and supple, that there no real reason not to own one of these bracelets. Besides, a couple of brands use these mesh bracelets (branded of course), like IWC, Omega, Breitling, Eterna but also lower-end brands like Skagen. The people at StrapCode for example, also sell a wide variety of them. Also Watch Gecko has a couple.

 

8. Cartier Santos

The Cartier Santos model I am talking about was introduced in 1978. It was the first true all stainless steel watch for Cartier. All Santos Dumont models were only in gold or platinum. The bracelet underwent some changes through the years, but only on the inside of the bracelet. The typical screws remained. Then, Cartier introduced the Santos Galbée. A similar design, but a slightly bend case and slightly domed links in the bracelet. In 2005, the Galbée XL was introduced, with similar design, but bigger. Early 2018, for its 40th anniversary, the Santos was re-introduced with an in-house movement, new bezel shape, large® case and a new bracelet. Easy to adjust by yourself, using the micro-pushers on the inside of the bracelet.

 

9. Breitling Rouleaux

I believe it is out of production since a while, but if you’ve ever watched the Seinfeld show. You know it. According to Breitling Source, it was also named ‘Bullet’ bracelet. It can still be seen once in a while on an older Chronomat you’ll come across. It was used on the Windrider series by Breitling, of which the Chronomat was just a model. Now, the Chronomat is a collection of its own. It just looks very camp, but very comfortable as well.

 

10. Omega Seamaster 300M

The last one in my best watch bracelets overview, but certainly not a bad one. You either love them or you hate them, the Seamaster 300M ‘Bond’ bracelets. Admitted, they look very 1990s with their array of links, but they are very sturdy and comfortable. They are also a bit more outspoken than the Speedmaster (style) bracelet. A little diving extension is there to wear it over your neoprene suit. Micro-adjustment was not possible on the first generations, but is now. There is (and was) also a version that consisted of titanium, Sedna (rose) gold and tantalum. Below an overview of the new Seamaster 300M (2018) bracelet and the previous versions on both sides.

 

Your Best Watch Bracelets?

These best watch bracelets are, of course, my own favourites that I’ve tried and experienced over the last two decades or so. You might have a completely different opinion of course. Funny thing is, that Rolex is taking 3 positions in my Top 10 best watch bracelets overview. Although I love and collect the Speedmaster watches myself, I’ve never been a fan of their bracelets. I think the older models are at least better than the current one(s). The mesh bracelets are a bit generically mentioned in my article, but I think you catch my drift. They are just very comfortable, although I am not always a fan of their appearance. It heavily depends on the type of watch you put them on.

It would be very interesting to learn about your favourite steel bracelets, so if you have any, please list them below in the (Disqus) comments.


Tento příspěvek byl upraven od Vit: 29.červen.2018 - 07:41

Autor zastává myšlenku, kterou zároveň vyvrací.

 

Plavecké: Timex Ironman
Vintage: Prim, Doxa, Digitálky Lucerne, Seiko 5
Kapesní: patent Remontoir, Thiel, Omega, Doxa

HISTORIE:
Precista "ITALIAN" - PRS-20, Poljot Navigator alarm, Omega Geneve, Eterna Matic 1948, Alpha skeleton, Rainer Brand Panama, Vintage Doxa náramkkové, Waltham, Vintage Doxa náramkové z kapesních, Oris Artelier Big Date, Kemmner Marine, Precista PRS-9 CAF, LÜM-TEC V1, Seagull 1963, Edox Les Bemonts, Dievas Flieger, Frederique Constant WORLDTIMER, Zenith Port Royal V Dual Time, Tissot Heritage Chronometre, Glycine Airman 1953 LE, Breitling Navitimer, Perrelet Turbine,
 

PRODÁVÁM

Nic, sám mám málo.


ZAJÍMAVOSTI
Hod. ikony a jejich vyzyvatelé, Milníky značky RolexBRONZOVÁ L.E. Lum-Tec , LUM TEC RR2 ,LÜM-TEC B34,

Přeložil jsem knihu ROLEX SUBMARINER STORY a pracuji na překladu knihy STORY ROLEX EXPLORER, TURN-O-GRAPH (DATEJUST), MILGAUSS A YACHT MASTER do češtiny. Pokud by jste měli zájem, ozvěte se mi, ukázky ZDE.


#4 Vit

Vit

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Publikováno 30.říjen.2018 - 08:09

Deset nástrojů, které potřebuje každý chronomagor:

ZDE

 

Every watch enthusiast knows that with this hobby, watches are the least of your concern when it comes to storage. Your watch often comes with box and papers. If you’re a strap geek, like me, your drawer (or wherever you store them) will be filled with them. Catalogs, magazines and of course watch books take up more than a shelf in the home library. Not to mention the window displays, vintage travel clocks and whatnots that we often like to collect (hoard?). And if you still have some empty space left in your drawer; here are our Top 10 Tools Every Watch Guy Needs. You might have some of them already. Or perhaps you have better/newer/more advanced ones. Don’t look at this list as something mandatory where you have to tick all of the items. It’s more of a buyer’s guide for watch tools on the market.

 

Top 10 Watch Tools

 

Bergeon 6767 spring bar tool

Let’s get this straight; you need a good spring bar tool. I know that certain sites send you one for free when you buy a strap but let’s be honest, those are hardly quality. Trust me, I’ve been through my fair share of cheap, Chinese tools. They will eventually break. But before they do, they’ll scratch the lugs of your favorite timepiece while you try to change the strap on it. Surely a good tool does not necessarily mean success when it comes to changing a strap without scratching your watch. But it reduces the chance of error. The Bergeon 6767 is an inexpensive (about €15-20) but a quality tool. After all, Bergeon is the brand many watch companies use from small tools (like the 6767) to more complicated machinery. Make sure you order a 6767 with both 1mm and 3mm fork ends and a straight end for push pins.

 

Case back knife

Nowadays case backs are usually screw-in. Sometimes they are bolted to the case. It is a safe and effective way to protect the movement. It makes sure your watch won’t experience water leakage. For all the vintage guys with press-in case backs though; you need to get a good, quality case back knife. Remember the last time you brought your vintage chronograph to your watchmaker and he took a swiss army knife-like tool and popped the back. That’s what we’re talking about. A case back knife is actually a very basic swiss army knife with a blade that is designed for back openings. Often on the sides of vintage watches, there’s a small space. You need to put the blade in that space and press it firmly but cautiously until you feel the blade going under the back. Move the knife up and down to pop the back.

Top Tip: Look for brands like Victorinox or Wenger. They are around €20-25 on the brands’ site or the usual places like Ofrei, Cousins, eBay and so on.

 

Case back ball

Of course, a case back knife is not going to help you with your vintage diver or basically any other modern timepiece. Contemporary watches don’t have press-in case backs anymore. Usually, it is screw-in or perhaps bolted to the case itself. Obviously, the bolts are no issue if you have a nice set of screw-drivers (more below). However, for the average screw-in case back a case back ball would do the trick. It looks and feels like any other rubber ball. You have to inflate it, so it becomes hard enough not to lose its form even if you squeeze and press it against the case back. Then you just slowly twist it counterclockwise and it will unscrew the back for you. Given that it’s not stuck too much. Then only a professional opener and/or a watchmaker can help. A case back opener ball is around €5.

Top Tip: if you don’t want to buy a case back ball a squash ball will do the trick just fine.

 

UV light

A UV light is a fun and useful tool (if you know how to use it). Often referred to as “blacklight” it is a cheap gadget which can come in handy at times. Especially if you are a vintage guy and would like to check the lume on your watch. Lume, let that be tritium, radium or Super-LumiNova, will glow when activated with a UV light.  You can check if the dial still has the original lume. It is also helpful to see how the lume used to shine when the watch was new back in its day. Last but not least, it is a convenient tool to verify the originality of the bank notes you get when selling a watch. All joke aside a UV light is an affordable gizmo that you can take to a GTG and be the center of the attention.

 

Demagnetizer

I talked about the topic of magnetization not too long ago in a lengthy post, here. As I said it then, in today’s technical world so many things that surround us on a daily basis can magnetize our watches that we don’t even realize them. For this it I advisable to check if the watch got magnetized and if so, demagnetize it to maintain its condition. Apps like Lepsi is a free and convenient way to check the condition of your timepiece. If it shows that your favorite vintage piece or daily wearer is magnetized don’t worry, there’s a solution. A demagnetizer is super cheap (around €8-10) and readily available. You can pick it up on eBay, Amazon or your local electronics store. Plug it in, place the watch on top of it, press the button and after 10 seconds lift the watch, then release the button. That’s it.

 

Loupe

I’m sure this needs no further explanation. A loupe is probably as useful as a UV light or a case back opener. From a single-lens €10 version to a professional €200 piece, you can choose from many variants. Again, places like eBay or Amazon are great to look for them. If you want a professional version check out Bergeon’s site. Loupe’s are also favored gifts watch brands give out during their special events or product presentation. Sometimes you can get one while picking up your new timepiece. Aside from the fact that they are perfect for checking serial numbers on movements or ref numbers of end links, they serve as great photo accessories. Lean the watch against it or use it in the background to produce real professional-looking images. Or simply use them to admire the complexity of the movement in your favorite timepiece.

 

Pin Pusher

When I talked about the spring bar tool, I already told you that the Bergeon 6767 comes with a pin pusher head. This is a 5mm long straight pin that you can use the adjust the old-style micro adjuster on your bracelet claps. Old style bracelets, unlike newer screw versions, also use long pins to hold the bracelet pieces together. You can remove or add a link by pushing these pins out. For that, a spring bar tool might not be the best solution as the head length is not enough. You need to get a pin remover either from Bergeon or another quality producer. The key is definitely quality. You can find cheap Chinese tools that either break easily or fall apart eventually. I’m speaking from experience. A Bergon 7230 won’t cost more than €15 and will be perfect for your needs.

Top Tip: For all of you professional pin removers check out a pin remover plier, like the Bergeon 6819.

 

Caliper

Something I use often, especially when I write watch reviews, is my digital caliper. You can’t imagine how useful this little tool can come around the house. Not only in connection with watches, though I have to admit I use it for stuff like that the most. To start with, it gives you accurate measures. Often times watch lugs are not 18mm or 20mm but 18.5, 19mm etc. If you want to find the perfect strap for that special piece you need to have the exact measures. Better yet, when you want to have straps custom made the caliper could give you those unusual lug widths. I measure the lug end to lug end of a watch with it. Or the thickness, even the width of the case. While you might think you don’t need these measures, they could improve your sales ad should you wish to sell a watch.

 

Time graph

The biggest mistake one can commit is to think that once he/she bought a watch there’s nothing else left to do and it will run forever. We know that this is far from the truth. A watch is a very complex mechanism, that is moving with you strapped to your arm. It runs constantly, takes physical impacts, withstands magnetization and so on. Its performance is crucial for its function, so we need to keep an eye on it. For that, having a time graph around is actually a good idea to keep an eye on the condition of the movement. Whether you use a professional one (€400-500), a cheaper but quality like this Lepsi or an app (we talked about here) does not really matter. As long as you check the accuracy every once in a while, it should be fine.

Good quality spring bars

This topic is another area where many don’t pay attention to details. A spring bar is the last security link between your (often super) expensive timepiece and the concrete floor in your garage. I hear guys telling me that they bought such and such alligator strap for XY hundred euros to match their vintage Gallet or Breitling. When I ask them where they got the spring bars from the answer is often: Oh, I bought them on eBay. Every size from 10mm to 20mm for only €15. – Now, you know where those are coming from and what quality they probably are. Unless your watch has fixed lugs, having quality spring bars is not only advisable but pretty much mandatory. They – hopefully – are less likely to break and secure the watch on your wrist. Check out Cousins or Ofrei for German or Swiss spring bars.

 

+ 1 screwdrivers

A set of screwdrivers are likely the tools you need the least. When you do, however, having quality ones is advisable. Many modern timepieces use screws instead of normal spring bars. Contemporary bracelets (sometimes even vintage ones) have screw links instead of push pins. I already talked about bolted case backs above. If a good spring bar tool can save you from scratching up your watch lugs, imagine how handy can a nice set of screws drivers come compared to some low-quality cheap ones. They mess up the screw head and scratch the surface of it. Been there, done that, it’s no fun. Furthermore, you can use them to tighten other objects like sunglasses’ hinges. A nice set is around €200+ however if you take care of them they will serve you well for many years to come.

 

Small Print

Not really, but a few things I find important to mention regarding this list. In general, quality is key. You can buy cheap (knock-off) versions of the pricier items on the list but it’s not worth it. They are often poorly made and do more damage than good. Of course, you should spend as much as you can afford. If you will use a screwdriver once a year at best, you don’t need the €400 version. Or any, for that matter. Go to your local watch shop they often do these small repairs or changes for free. If, however, you decide on investing in these tools make sure you know how to use them. Ask your watchmaker to show you the ropes or watch YouTube videos. There’s plenty available online. This will help you avoid damaging your precious timepiece or the tool you just invested in.

 

Always execute any repairs or changes at your own risk. I cannot take responsibility for any damages and merely provide a list of tools that I think are useful. Alternatively, you could buy a cheap watch on eBay or at the local flea market and practice on that before you use your newly learned skill on your Patek Philippe 5970. Also, this article is NOT an ad paid by Bergeon, Ofrei or any other brand mentioned. I simply find the above products nicely made and affordably priced, that’s all.  Sites like Ofrei or Cousins are also great and offer a larger variety of tools in most price ranges. And last but not least, the items on the list are in no specific order. Buy what you need and what you will use.


Tento příspěvek byl upraven od Vit: 30.říjen.2018 - 08:11

Autor zastává myšlenku, kterou zároveň vyvrací.

 

Plavecké: Timex Ironman
Vintage: Prim, Doxa, Digitálky Lucerne, Seiko 5
Kapesní: patent Remontoir, Thiel, Omega, Doxa

HISTORIE:
Precista "ITALIAN" - PRS-20, Poljot Navigator alarm, Omega Geneve, Eterna Matic 1948, Alpha skeleton, Rainer Brand Panama, Vintage Doxa náramkkové, Waltham, Vintage Doxa náramkové z kapesních, Oris Artelier Big Date, Kemmner Marine, Precista PRS-9 CAF, LÜM-TEC V1, Seagull 1963, Edox Les Bemonts, Dievas Flieger, Frederique Constant WORLDTIMER, Zenith Port Royal V Dual Time, Tissot Heritage Chronometre, Glycine Airman 1953 LE, Breitling Navitimer, Perrelet Turbine,
 

PRODÁVÁM

Nic, sám mám málo.


ZAJÍMAVOSTI
Hod. ikony a jejich vyzyvatelé, Milníky značky RolexBRONZOVÁ L.E. Lum-Tec , LUM TEC RR2 ,LÜM-TEC B34,

Přeložil jsem knihu ROLEX SUBMARINER STORY a pracuji na překladu knihy STORY ROLEX EXPLORER, TURN-O-GRAPH (DATEJUST), MILGAUSS A YACHT MASTER do češtiny. Pokud by jste měli zájem, ozvěte se mi, ukázky ZDE.


#5 Vit

Vit

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Publikováno 2.listopad.2018 - 09:28

In-Depth Chronographe Suisse – The Story Behind a Mysterious but Productive Chronograph Brand and Supplier

The affordable, “authentic” timepiece for tourists in Switzerland.

 

It’s not uncommon for watch brands to outsource cases, movements, crystals, straps, etc. to assemble at their base location, and then stamp their name on the dial and call it their own. Not all companies can build from scratch and even major luxury brands use ETA movements and various outsourced components. Back in the 1940s, a brand known as Chronographe Suisse (Swiss Chronograph) provided inexpensive “generic” chronograph watches and parts for brands to adopt and add their name. Even local jewellers branded these watches as their own. It sold watches with in-house “Chronographe Suisse” branding as well, adding some confusion into the mix.

 

Popular in the European market as (relatively) cheap Swiss watches for tourists, Chronographe Suisse became a significant revenue source for small, often forgettable brands and many of these watches are collectables today. At its peak, over 500 workshops were producing watches with supplies from Chronographe Suisse. This successful business model thrived from the 1940s to the 1970s, before the quartz revolution wreaked havoc on the industry overall. Let’s take a closer look at this somewhat forgotten chapter of twentieth-century watch history.

 

The Brand Itself

 

It’s difficult to really pin down the roots of Chronographe Suisse. It often reminds me of companies like Seiko (relatively speaking, of course), which provides movements and parts to other brands, such as the Seiko calibre NH35A used by multiple micro brands. Those brands don’t have Seiko on their dials and the same movement powers many of Seiko’s own pieces. That’s not an entirely accurate comparison, however, as Chronographe Suisse didn’t produce in-house movements. Most of its watches, whether self-branded or adopted by others, had Swiss Venus, Landeron or Valjoux movements.

 

These companies provided high-quality, reliable but relatively inexpensive movements – in the same vein as Seiko or ETA today (understanding that Seiko isn’t Swiss, but you get the idea). Many of its chronographs were stylish and high-end in appearance, using steel or thin gold-plated cases (in some cases solid 14k or 18k gold) and fancy dials. The perfect enticement for a tourist seeking an affordable Swiss timepiece. Solid gold cases were thin to reduce material costs and corners were often cut to increase production, but they were nevertheless popular mementos. They weren’t all cheap, however, with some higher-end models selling at established brand prices.

 

Commonly used movements for Chronographe Suisse included the cam-operated Landeron Calibre 48 (over 3.5 million were produced), which featured a conventional two-button layout after the three-button Calibre 47. It was a bit peculiar as the pusher at 2 o’clock started the seconds, while the one at 4 o’clock both stopped and reset it. It was a hand-wound movement with 17 jewels, 18,000vph (2.5Hz) and a 42-hour power reserve. Landeron goes back to 1873, but it wasn’t until 1924 that the company produced chronograph movements (and 1925 when it went by the name, Landeron).

 

The Venus Calibre 170 was another common Swiss movement for Chronographe Suisse watches. Established in 1923, Venus produced its first chronograph movement in 1933, the Calibre 103. Its column-wheel chronograph movements were lauded as among the best ever produced, including the Calibre 170, a hand-wound movement with 17 jewels, 18,000vph (2.5Hz) and a 40-hour power reserve. Venus also produced self-branded watches into the 1970’s.

 

Movements from Valjoux, such as the Valjoux 92, were also seen in Chronographe Suisse watches. Similar to the others, the Swiss hand-wound movement had 17 jewels, 18,000vph (2.5Hz) and a 39-hour power reserve. Landeron, Venus and Valjoux were all popular movement manufacturers that many high-end brands utilized, and they helped establish Chronographe Suisse’s reputation as a quality yet affordable Swiss alternative to established brands.

 

Alternate Branding

 

You can find a lot of Chronographe Suisse watches out there with obscure names on the dial from long-forgotten brands. Dreffa is one of the better-known companies (not that it’s widely recognized) that branded Chronographe Suisse dials with its name. Established in 1874 in Geneva, Switzerland by Armand Dreyffus, Dreffa became a luxury watch brand that pushed itself into the US market in the 1940s under the name, Dreffa Geneve. Many of its models were Chronographe Suisse pieces, often with both company names on the dial (Dreffa Geneve and Chronographe Suisse). Jacques Maguin acquired the Dreffa brand in 1985 and modified the logo, and it was acquired again in 2014 by TGX Holdings, with production continuing in both Geneva and Glashütte.

 

Other brands like Ultimor and Olympic appeared on Chronographe Suisse watches, only to disappear as the quartz crisis decimated smaller brands. A large percentage of these companies existed solely because of the Chronographe Suisse supply, which allowed assembly and simple dial modifications to be the major requirements for the existence of a watch brand. Not a bad set-up for motivated entrepreneurs.

 

Chronographe Suisse Collecting

 

Watches today, whether branded with Chronographe Suisse or a name you’ve never heard of, are popular with first-time vintage watch buyers and even seasoned collectors. 18k gold models can sell for over EUR 3,000, although it’s not hard to find gold (and especially gold-plated) models for well under EUR 2,000. I found a gold, 37mm model from the 1950s in good cosmetic and mechanical condition for under EUR 1,000. It has a Landeron Calibre 48 and two sub-dials at 3 and 6 o’clock. Not bad for a vintage Swiss chronograph.

 

Keep in mind that the gold case is unusually thin with hollow lugs, so you’re getting less material and robustness than what more established brands offered. The Landeron movement can also be expensive to service. Many steel Chronographe Suisse watches can be found for under EUR 500, so you don’t have to spend a fortune if you’re intrigued by the brand. My advice, especially if spending north of EUR 1,000, is to obtain a recent service history and clear pictures of the movement (if buying online) before committing.

 

Chronograph Suisse in the 21st Century

 

A small revival of Chronograph Suisse watches happened around 2010 with the Chronographe Suisse Mangusta Supermeccanica Stupenda (sounds Italian, but it’s Swiss). Various offshoots of this model were produced and it’s a modern throwback to the mid-20th century. Unlike the fashion-focused originals with acrylic crystals and smallish cases, the new watches have sapphire crystals, heavy steel cases around 45mm in diameter and water-resistance up to 200m. Movements in these models (called Calibre 26 automatics) are likely ETA 2894-2 automatic calibres with 37 jewels, 28,800vph (4Hz) and a 42-hour power reserve. Prices started at USD 5,000 and topped out at around USD 8,000. They can be found today for around USD 3,000 or less for clean examples.

 

Choosing between a “new” Chronograph Suisse or vintage counterpart is like choosing between a 1955 Volkswagen Beetle or a 2010 model. Very different concepts for different people. I’d personally choose a vintage Chronographe Suisse with a Landeron Calibre 48 in steel. I find that combination the most interesting and nice examples won’t break the bank. Whether or not I choose an obscure brand on the dial or simply “Chronographe Suisse” would depend entirely on how aesthetically pleasing the watch is.

 

Actual branding on the dial is insignificant to me (they’re all Chronographe Suisse pieces), although I know there are collectors who would wholeheartedly disagree. The few decades of Chronographe Suisse aren’t a well-known part of horological history, especially in North America, but the thousands upon thousands of watches produced not only give an interesting insight into pre-quartz watchmaking but provide vintage watch collectors with something affordable to acquire.

 

ZDROJ:

https://monochrome-w..._eid=144e8b2da6


Tento příspěvek byl upraven od Vit: 2.listopad.2018 - 09:30

Autor zastává myšlenku, kterou zároveň vyvrací.

 

Plavecké: Timex Ironman
Vintage: Prim, Doxa, Digitálky Lucerne, Seiko 5
Kapesní: patent Remontoir, Thiel, Omega, Doxa

HISTORIE:
Precista "ITALIAN" - PRS-20, Poljot Navigator alarm, Omega Geneve, Eterna Matic 1948, Alpha skeleton, Rainer Brand Panama, Vintage Doxa náramkkové, Waltham, Vintage Doxa náramkové z kapesních, Oris Artelier Big Date, Kemmner Marine, Precista PRS-9 CAF, LÜM-TEC V1, Seagull 1963, Edox Les Bemonts, Dievas Flieger, Frederique Constant WORLDTIMER, Zenith Port Royal V Dual Time, Tissot Heritage Chronometre, Glycine Airman 1953 LE, Breitling Navitimer, Perrelet Turbine,
 

PRODÁVÁM

Nic, sám mám málo.


ZAJÍMAVOSTI
Hod. ikony a jejich vyzyvatelé, Milníky značky RolexBRONZOVÁ L.E. Lum-Tec , LUM TEC RR2 ,LÜM-TEC B34,

Přeložil jsem knihu ROLEX SUBMARINER STORY a pracuji na překladu knihy STORY ROLEX EXPLORER, TURN-O-GRAPH (DATEJUST), MILGAUSS A YACHT MASTER do češtiny. Pokud by jste měli zájem, ozvěte se mi, ukázky ZDE.


#6 Vit

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Publikováno 2.listopad.2018 - 19:31

Česká firma Chronotechna vybrala za 10 minut na výrobu nejtmavších hodinek půl milionu korun

https://www.czechcru...kce-z-internetu

Ta Chronotechna je Elton?

Tento příspěvek byl upraven od Vit: 2.listopad.2018 - 19:37

Autor zastává myšlenku, kterou zároveň vyvrací.

 

Plavecké: Timex Ironman
Vintage: Prim, Doxa, Digitálky Lucerne, Seiko 5
Kapesní: patent Remontoir, Thiel, Omega, Doxa

HISTORIE:
Precista "ITALIAN" - PRS-20, Poljot Navigator alarm, Omega Geneve, Eterna Matic 1948, Alpha skeleton, Rainer Brand Panama, Vintage Doxa náramkkové, Waltham, Vintage Doxa náramkové z kapesních, Oris Artelier Big Date, Kemmner Marine, Precista PRS-9 CAF, LÜM-TEC V1, Seagull 1963, Edox Les Bemonts, Dievas Flieger, Frederique Constant WORLDTIMER, Zenith Port Royal V Dual Time, Tissot Heritage Chronometre, Glycine Airman 1953 LE, Breitling Navitimer, Perrelet Turbine,
 

PRODÁVÁM

Nic, sám mám málo.


ZAJÍMAVOSTI
Hod. ikony a jejich vyzyvatelé, Milníky značky RolexBRONZOVÁ L.E. Lum-Tec , LUM TEC RR2 ,LÜM-TEC B34,

Přeložil jsem knihu ROLEX SUBMARINER STORY a pracuji na překladu knihy STORY ROLEX EXPLORER, TURN-O-GRAPH (DATEJUST), MILGAUSS A YACHT MASTER do češtiny. Pokud by jste měli zájem, ozvěte se mi, ukázky ZDE.


#7 Ondra

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Publikováno 2.listopad.2018 - 20:56

Česká firma Chronotechna vybrala za 10 minut na výrobu nejtmavších hodinek půl milionu korun

https://www.czechcru...kce-z-internetu

Ta Chronotechna je Elton?


Neni... http://forum.chronom...-5#entry2227342

#8 Vit

Vit

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Publikováno 3.listopad.2018 - 08:29

Díky, to mi uniklo.

Autor zastává myšlenku, kterou zároveň vyvrací.

 

Plavecké: Timex Ironman
Vintage: Prim, Doxa, Digitálky Lucerne, Seiko 5
Kapesní: patent Remontoir, Thiel, Omega, Doxa

HISTORIE:
Precista "ITALIAN" - PRS-20, Poljot Navigator alarm, Omega Geneve, Eterna Matic 1948, Alpha skeleton, Rainer Brand Panama, Vintage Doxa náramkkové, Waltham, Vintage Doxa náramkové z kapesních, Oris Artelier Big Date, Kemmner Marine, Precista PRS-9 CAF, LÜM-TEC V1, Seagull 1963, Edox Les Bemonts, Dievas Flieger, Frederique Constant WORLDTIMER, Zenith Port Royal V Dual Time, Tissot Heritage Chronometre, Glycine Airman 1953 LE, Breitling Navitimer, Perrelet Turbine,
 

PRODÁVÁM

Nic, sám mám málo.


ZAJÍMAVOSTI
Hod. ikony a jejich vyzyvatelé, Milníky značky RolexBRONZOVÁ L.E. Lum-Tec , LUM TEC RR2 ,LÜM-TEC B34,

Přeložil jsem knihu ROLEX SUBMARINER STORY a pracuji na překladu knihy STORY ROLEX EXPLORER, TURN-O-GRAPH (DATEJUST), MILGAUSS A YACHT MASTER do češtiny. Pokud by jste měli zájem, ozvěte se mi, ukázky ZDE.