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Die 15 schönsten Dress-Watches Welche elegante Uhr trägt der Mann am Abend?


am 12. Juni 2018

Die meisten Uhren sind auf irgendeine Weise sportlich. Aber was trägt der Mann am Abend in der Oper oder bei sonstigen festlichen Anlässen? Dann wählt man besser eine elegante Uhr passend zur Kleidung. Die 15 schönsten Dress-Watches im Überblick:

 

Dress-Watch #1: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Großdatum

So sieht die A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Großdatum in Rotgold am Handgelenk aus.

Bei A. Lange & Söhne steht die fast gesamte Kollektion zur Auswahl, wenn ein eleganter Zeitmesser gesucht wird. Denn seit jeher fertigen die Glashütter ihre Uhren mit Gehäuse aus Edelmetallen wie gold oder Platin. Durch ihr klar gestaltetes, am Zentrum ausgerichtetes Zifferblatt war die Saxonia schon immer die klassische Alternative zur Lange 1. Die aktuelle Saxonia Großdatum in Rotgold mit schwarzem Zifferblatt wirkt trotz Datumasfenster und kleiner Sekunde sehr elegant, was auch an ihrem Gehäusedurchmesser von 38,5 Millimetern liegt.

Gehäuse: Rotgold, 38,5 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: L086.8, Automatik | Preis: 24.500 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #2: Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic

Baume & Mercier: Clifton Baumatic in Edelstahl mit blauem Lederband

Es muss jedoch nicht immer nur Gold und Platin sein. Auch Edelstahl wirkt elegant. So wie bei der neuen, sehr zurückhaltend gestalteten Clifton Baumatic von Baume & Mercier. Lediglich drei Zeiger und eine Datumsanzeige sind auf dem weißen, porzellanartigen Zifferblatt zu finden.  Mit ihrer Gehäusegröße von 40 Millimetern misst die Dreizeigeruhr schlanke 10,3 Millimeter in der Höhe.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, 40 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: Baumatic BM12-1975A, Automatik | Preis: 2.450 Euro; mit Chronometerzertifikat: 2.600 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #3: Montblanc Heritage Spirit Date Automatic

Montblanc Heritage Spirit Date Automatic

Die Marke Montblanc steht für Eleganz. Und die Heritage Spirit Date Automatic macht da keine Ausnahme: Rotgoldgehäuse mit schmaler Lünette, guillochiertes Zifferblatt mit römischer Zwölf und klassische Dauphinzeiger.

Gehäuse: Rotgold, 39 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: Sellita SW 300, Automatik | Preis: 6.890 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #4: Junghans Max Bill sandfarben

Die Max Bill Automatic von Junghans mit sandgoldfarbener PVD-Beschichtung.

Der Designklassiker aus Schramberg darf in dieser Übersicht nicht fehlen: 1961 hat der Bauhaus-Schüler, Architekt und Designer Max Bill diese Uhr für Junghans entworfen. Längst ist sie zur Ikone geworden und es gibt sie in verschiedenen Ausführungen ? als Automatikversion, mit Handaufzug und als Chronograph. Neu ist die Gehäusevariante mit einer PVD-Beschichtung, die von der Marke als sandfarben bezeichnet wird.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, PVD-beschichtet 38 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: Eta 2824, Automatik | Preis: 995Euro

 

Dress-Watch #5: Sinn 1746 Heimat

Am Handgelenk: Die 1746 Heimat von Sinn Spezialuhren

Römische Ziffern, ein silberfarbens Zifferblatt mit rautenförmigem Relief und lediglich zwei Zeiger. Das lässt so gar nicht auf die Uhrenmarke Sinn schließen, ist sie doch eher für ihre Einsatzzeitmesser bekannt. Die neue Dresswatch 1746 Heimat ist jedoch bei Weitem nicht die erste elegante Uhr aus Frankfurt. Das elegante Edelstahlmodell passt mit seiner Gehäusegröße von 42 Millimeter und gerade einmal 9,4 Millimetern in der Höhe spielend unter jede Hemdmanschette.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, 42 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: Eta 2892, Automatik | Preis: 1.890 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #6: Longines Record

Longines: Record

 Mit der im letzten Jahr eingeführten Kollektion Record bietet Longines Frauen und Männern schlichte Dreizeigeruhren mit einer Datumsanzeige. Verschiedene Gehäusegrößen und Zifferblattvarianten mit römischen oder arabischen Ziffern oder lediglich Stabindexen ermöglichen eine ganz individuelle Auswahl ? je nach Anlass und Kleidung. Die Kombination von römischen Ziffern und dem sanft aus dem Gehäuse hervorgehenden Edelstahlband dieser 38,5 Millimeter großen Record wirkt sehr stilvoll.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, 38,5 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: Eta A31.L11, Automatik | Preis: 1.990 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #7: Tutima Patria Gangreserve

Tutima: Patria Gangreserve

Die klassisch gestaltete Patria von Tutima erhält in diesem Jahr eine Gangreserveanzeige. Die Anzeige fügt sich bei neun Uhr elegant in das fein versilberte Zifferblatt ein. Über diesem drehen von Hand gefertigte Zeiger aus Rotgold ihre Runden. Die Patria Gangreserve wird vom Handaufzugskaliber Tutima 618 mit 65 Stunden Gangautonomie angetrieben.

Gehäuse: Rotgold, 43 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: Tutima 618, Handaufzug | Preis: 16.000 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #8: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic

Trotz ihrer beiden Kronen und der unterschiedlichen Formen der Zifferblattveredlung wirkt die neue Polaris Automatic schlicht und elegant. Dazu trägt entscheidend die schmale Lünette und der Retro-Charakter bei. Das Basismodell der neuen Polaris-Kollektion von Jaeger-LeCoultre kann je nach Gelegenheit am schwarzen oder braunen Lederband oder am Edelstahlband getragen werden.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, 41 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: JLC 898/1, Automatik | Preis: 6.700 Euro (Kalbslederband)

 

Dress-Watch #9: Patek Philippe Weltzeituhr

Patek Philippe: Complication Referenz 5230

Patek Philippe steht wie kaum eine zweite Marke für klassische Eleganz. 2016 haben die Genfer ihre beliebte Weltzeituhr überarbeitet und dabei Gehäuseform, Zifferblatt und Zeiger verändert. Auch die Zeitzoneneinteilungen wurden aktualisiert.

Gehäuse: Weißgold, 38,5 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: 240 HU, Automatik | Preis: 42.850 Euro 

 

Dress-Watch #10: Mido Baroncelli 100th Anniversary Limited Edition

Die Mido Baroncelli Sonderedition für Herren besitzt ein elfenbeinfarbenes Zifferblatt.

Dass elegant nicht gleich teuer sein muss zeigt Mido mit der Sonderedition Baroncelli 100th Anniversary Limited Edition zum 100. Geburtstage der Marke. Das schlanke Edelstahlgehäuse mit roségoldfarbener PVD-Beschichtung misst 38 Millimeter im Durchmesser und folgt dem Trend zur kleineren Uhr für den Herrn. Das schlanke Gehäuse rutscht problemlos unter die Hemdmanschette. Auf dem elfenbeinfarbenen, lackierten Zifferblatt befindet sich die Datumsanzeige bei drei Uhr gegenüber der Jubiläums-Aufschrift; bei sechs Uhr ist die kleine Sekunde untergebracht.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, roségoldfarbene PVD-Beschichtung, 38 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: Eta 2825-2 | Preis: 970 Euro, limitert auf 1.918 Stück

 

Dress-Watch #11: Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panoramadatum

Glashütte Original: Senator Excellence Panoramadatum in Blau

Die Senator Excellence Panoramadatum von Glashütte Original versprüht mit ihrem blau galvanisierten Zifferblatt mit Strahlenschliff, den markanten weißgoldenen Indexen und den schwertförmigen Zeigern pure Eleganz. Das Panoramadatum fügt sich wunderbar in das Erscheinungsbild ein. Angetrieben wird die vornehme Uhr vom Manufakturkaliber 36-03 mit Automatikaufzug.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, 42 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: 36-03, Automatik | Preis: 9.200 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #12: IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition ?150 Years?

IWC: Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition ?150 Years? in Rotgold

Gebläute Zeiger, ein weiß lackiertes Zifferblatt und ein Gehäuse aus Rotgold ? das Sondermodell der Portugieser zum 150-jährigen Bestehen von IWC überzeugt durch ihr reduziertes Erscheinungsbild und hochwertige Materialien. Von der eleganten Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition ?150 Years? in Rotgold mit acht Tagen Gangautonomie gibt es lediglich 250 Exemplare.

Gehäuse: Rotgold, 43 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: 59215, Handaufzug | Preis: 18.700 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #13: Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Automatik

Vacheron Constantin: Fiftysix Automatik Roségold

Vacheron Constantin erinnert mit der neuen Kollektion Fiftysix an ein Modell aus dem Jahr 1956. Die Designer haben die Uhr jedoch sehr modern interpretiert: Herausgekommen ist eine zeitlos, eleganter Zeitmesser, der sich durch seine abgerundeten Gehäusekanten und Bandanstöße perfekt ans Handgelenk schmiegt.

Gehäuse: Roségold, 42 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: 1326, Automatik| Preis: 19.800 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #14: Zenith Elite Classic

Zenith: Elite Classic in Edelstahl

Schlanke Zeiger und Indexe, ein schlichtes Zifferblatt und ein Gehäusedurchmesser von 39 Millimetern und machen die Elite Classic zu einer klassischen Dress-Watch. Mit einer Höhe von 9,45 Millimetern gehört sich noch zu den flachen Uhren. Das Edelstahlgehäuse kombiniert Zenith mit einem grauen Zifferblatt im Sonnenschliff. Das im Innern verbaute Manufakturkaliber bietet eine Gangautonomie von 50 Stunden.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, 39 Millimeter | Uhwerk: Elite 679, Automatik | 4.900 Euro

 

Dress-Watch #15: Omega Seamaster 1948 Small Seconds

Omega: Seamaster 1948 mit Zentralsekunde

Omega kann beides: sportlich und elegant. Das beweist die Seamaster 1948 mit Zentralsekunde einmal mehr. Sie ist eine Hommage an die erste Seamaster-Serie von 1948. Ihr 38 Millimeter großes Gehäuse aus Edelstahl kommt mit einer polierter Lünette. Auf dem opalsilbernem, gewölbten Zifferblatt mit eingeprägtem ??? ziehen diamantpolierte Zeiger aus 18-karätigem Weißgold ihre Runden.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, 38 Millimeter | Uhrwerk: Master Chronometer 8806, Automatik| Preis: 5.700 Euro, limitiert auf 1.948 Stück

 

ZDROJ

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Hezký článek o tazích.

Myslím ale, že tam chybí IWC Ing. - za mě zatím to nejpropracovanější a uživatelsky nejříjemnější z toho, co jsem poznal.

 

ZDROJ S FOTKAMI

 

Top 10 Best Watch Bracelets

I?ve been into watches since the 1990s and started Fratello in 2004. Ever since I?ve seen a lot of different watch bracelets. It always amazed me that only a few watch brands are getting it ?right? with these bracelets. Sometimes, they look gorgeous but wear like crap. And other times, the looks aren?t very attractive but wear fantastic. It is a very personal and thus subjective matter of course, but let me share with you the best watch bracelets in my book.

 

1. Rolex President

The King, euh, President, of all bracelets as far as I am concerned. Only available in precious metals like white gold, yellow gold, red (Everose) gold and platinum. It consists of three semi-circular links per row and a concealed clasp (with a Rolex crown). A super comfortable bracelet, elegant looking and masculine at the same time. It was specifically designed for the Day-Date models (introduced in 1956). Since a couple of US presidents wore the Rolex Day-Date (on President bracelet), the entire watch was nicked ?Rolex President? and for some, it still is the Rolex President. I keep it at Day-Date with a President bracelet, as it was also available with another bracelet (Super-Oyster). The President is leading the best watch bracelets overview.

 

2. Rolex Jubilee

There is no single doubt in my mind that this is one of the best watch bracelets in the world. It combines looks and comfort and the most recent models have Rolex? Easylink system to slightly adjust the clasp. Former models just had a couple of holes in the clasp, that you could resize yourself using a toothpick. Also worked fine. But the Easylink system is just genius. The Jubilee bracelet was introduced in 1945, for the launch of the Rolex Datejust in that year. Meanwhile, the Jubilee bracelet also has been used for other Rolex models. This bracelet is like silk on your wrist.

 

3. Rolex Oyster

This Rolex bracelet even goes further back in time, and find its roots in the 1930s. It is a very easy to wear bracelet, very comfortable and it doesn?t draw much attention (if you have the all-stainless version with three brushed links). It also has an adjustable clasp (Easylink system) so you can shorten or extend the bracelet a bit, depending on the weather. This is probably also one of the most copied bracelet designs in the world. The Jubilee bracelet is more supple than the Oyster, but the latter is perhaps more versatile. Below, the Oyster bracelet in steel and Everose gold of the 2018 GMT-Master II Root Beer.

 

4. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

One of the most exciting bracelets to own and wear is one of the Royal Oak watches. I would even go a bit further and say that part of the fun in wearing a Royal Oak is the bracelet. It is well-made, beautifully finished, and very comfortable. When you look at the bracelet for the first time, you might think that it is a bit stiff and sharp. But that isn?t the case, it is a well-designed and engineered bracelet, with a stunning appearance. The brushed surfaces combined with the polished facets are beautiful. The clasp consists of the initials of this manufacturer.

 

5. Patek Philippe Nautilus

A bit more refined and smoother than the Royal Oak bracelet, but less outspoken. The double clasp with safety lock is easy to use. The larger parts of the links are brushed while the centre parts are polished. People who can?t stand scratches should back away from it or live with the fact that it will get marks on there. The watch head and bracelet are integrated you could say, but not as nice as on the Audemars Piguet. This bracelet does look a bit more sophisticated that AP?s one though. A matter of taste really. There is little to criticize this level of watchmaking.

 

6. Ebel Wave

I kid you not, I had to check whether this brand was still alive and active. Awkward. It seems they are now only producing ladies watches. However, back in the day, this was a cool brand in my opinion. I wonder how they could have messed it up so badly. Anyway, their Ebel Chronograph watches with El Primero movement were awesome. Even Don Johnson sported one in Miami Vice. The bracelets on the Ebel Wave model were something else, perhaps still are. The flat stainless steel bracelet with the wave pattern did not only look good, it was very comfortable as well. The downside used to be how it was attached to the case, with two screws from below.

 

7. Mesh

Not entirely fair, as I am talking generic mesh bracelets here. But the good thing is, you can find them basically anywhere in different sizes, so you can add them to your watch. The mesh is so smooth and supple, that there no real reason not to own one of these bracelets. Besides, a couple of brands use these mesh bracelets (branded of course), like IWC, Omega, Breitling, Eterna but also lower-end brands like Skagen. The people at StrapCode for example, also sell a wide variety of them. Also Watch Gecko has a couple.

 

8. Cartier Santos

The Cartier Santos model I am talking about was introduced in 1978. It was the first true all stainless steel watch for Cartier. All Santos Dumont models were only in gold or platinum. The bracelet underwent some changes through the years, but only on the inside of the bracelet. The typical screws remained. Then, Cartier introduced the Santos Galbée. A similar design, but a slightly bend case and slightly domed links in the bracelet. In 2005, the Galbée XL was introduced, with similar design, but bigger. Early 2018, for its 40th anniversary, the Santos was re-introduced with an in-house movement, new bezel shape, large® case and a new bracelet. Easy to adjust by yourself, using the micro-pushers on the inside of the bracelet.

 

9. Breitling Rouleaux

I believe it is out of production since a while, but if you?ve ever watched the Seinfeld show. You know it. According to Breitling Source, it was also named ?Bullet? bracelet. It can still be seen once in a while on an older Chronomat you?ll come across. It was used on the Windrider series by Breitling, of which the Chronomat was just a model. Now, the Chronomat is a collection of its own. It just looks very camp, but very comfortable as well.

 

10. Omega Seamaster 300M

The last one in my best watch bracelets overview, but certainly not a bad one. You either love them or you hate them, the Seamaster 300M ?Bond? bracelets. Admitted, they look very 1990s with their array of links, but they are very sturdy and comfortable. They are also a bit more outspoken than the Speedmaster (style) bracelet. A little diving extension is there to wear it over your neoprene suit. Micro-adjustment was not possible on the first generations, but is now. There is (and was) also a version that consisted of titanium, Sedna (rose) gold and tantalum. Below an overview of the new Seamaster 300M (2018) bracelet and the previous versions on both sides.

 

Your Best Watch Bracelets?

These best watch bracelets are, of course, my own favourites that I?ve tried and experienced over the last two decades or so. You might have a completely different opinion of course. Funny thing is, that Rolex is taking 3 positions in my Top 10 best watch bracelets overview. Although I love and collect the Speedmaster watches myself, I?ve never been a fan of their bracelets. I think the older models are at least better than the current one(s). The mesh bracelets are a bit generically mentioned in my article, but I think you catch my drift. They are just very comfortable, although I am not always a fan of their appearance. It heavily depends on the type of watch you put them on.

It would be very interesting to learn about your favourite steel bracelets, so if you have any, please list them below in the (Disqus) comments.

Edited by Vit

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Deset nástrojů, které potřebuje každý chronomagor:

ZDE

 

Every watch enthusiast knows that with this hobby, watches are the least of your concern when it comes to storage. Your watch often comes with box and papers. If you?re a strap geek, like me, your drawer (or wherever you store them) will be filled with them. Catalogs, magazines and of course watch books take up more than a shelf in the home library. Not to mention the window displays, vintage travel clocks and whatnots that we often like to collect (hoard?). And if you still have some empty space left in your drawer; here are our Top 10 Tools Every Watch Guy Needs. You might have some of them already. Or perhaps you have better/newer/more advanced ones. Don?t look at this list as something mandatory where you have to tick all of the items. It?s more of a buyer?s guide for watch tools on the market.

 

Top 10 Watch Tools

 

Bergeon 6767 spring bar tool

Let?s get this straight; you need a good spring bar tool. I know that certain sites send you one for free when you buy a strap but let?s be honest, those are hardly quality. Trust me, I?ve been through my fair share of cheap, Chinese tools. They will eventually break. But before they do, they?ll scratch the lugs of your favorite timepiece while you try to change the strap on it. Surely a good tool does not necessarily mean success when it comes to changing a strap without scratching your watch. But it reduces the chance of error. The Bergeon 6767 is an inexpensive (about ?15-20) but a quality tool. After all, Bergeon is the brand many watch companies use from small tools (like the 6767) to more complicated machinery. Make sure you order a 6767 with both 1mm and 3mm fork ends and a straight end for push pins.

 

Case back knife

Nowadays case backs are usually screw-in. Sometimes they are bolted to the case. It is a safe and effective way to protect the movement. It makes sure your watch won?t experience water leakage. For all the vintage guys with press-in case backs though; you need to get a good, quality case back knife. Remember the last time you brought your vintage chronograph to your watchmaker and he took a swiss army knife-like tool and popped the back. That?s what we?re talking about. A case back knife is actually a very basic swiss army knife with a blade that is designed for back openings. Often on the sides of vintage watches, there?s a small space. You need to put the blade in that space and press it firmly but cautiously until you feel the blade going under the back. Move the knife up and down to pop the back.

Top Tip: Look for brands like Victorinox or Wenger. They are around ?20-25 on the brands? site or the usual places like Ofrei, Cousins, eBay and so on.

 

Case back ball

Of course, a case back knife is not going to help you with your vintage diver or basically any other modern timepiece. Contemporary watches don?t have press-in case backs anymore. Usually, it is screw-in or perhaps bolted to the case itself. Obviously, the bolts are no issue if you have a nice set of screw-drivers (more below). However, for the average screw-in case back a case back ball would do the trick. It looks and feels like any other rubber ball. You have to inflate it, so it becomes hard enough not to lose its form even if you squeeze and press it against the case back. Then you just slowly twist it counterclockwise and it will unscrew the back for you. Given that it?s not stuck too much. Then only a professional opener and/or a watchmaker can help. A case back opener ball is around ?5.

Top Tip: if you don?t want to buy a case back ball a squash ball will do the trick just fine.

 

UV light

A UV light is a fun and useful tool (if you know how to use it). Often referred to as ?blacklight? it is a cheap gadget which can come in handy at times. Especially if you are a vintage guy and would like to check the lume on your watch. Lume, let that be tritium, radium or Super-LumiNova, will glow when activated with a UV light.  You can check if the dial still has the original lume. It is also helpful to see how the lume used to shine when the watch was new back in its day. Last but not least, it is a convenient tool to verify the originality of the bank notes you get when selling a watch. All joke aside a UV light is an affordable gizmo that you can take to a GTG and be the center of the attention.

 

Demagnetizer

I talked about the topic of magnetization not too long ago in a lengthy post, here. As I said it then, in today?s technical world so many things that surround us on a daily basis can magnetize our watches that we don?t even realize them. For this it I advisable to check if the watch got magnetized and if so, demagnetize it to maintain its condition. Apps like Lepsi is a free and convenient way to check the condition of your timepiece. If it shows that your favorite vintage piece or daily wearer is magnetized don?t worry, there?s a solution. A demagnetizer is super cheap (around ?8-10) and readily available. You can pick it up on eBay, Amazon or your local electronics store. Plug it in, place the watch on top of it, press the button and after 10 seconds lift the watch, then release the button. That?s it.

 

Loupe

I?m sure this needs no further explanation. A loupe is probably as useful as a UV light or a case back opener. From a single-lens ?10 version to a professional ?200 piece, you can choose from many variants. Again, places like eBay or Amazon are great to look for them. If you want a professional version check out Bergeon?s site. Loupe?s are also favored gifts watch brands give out during their special events or product presentation. Sometimes you can get one while picking up your new timepiece. Aside from the fact that they are perfect for checking serial numbers on movements or ref numbers of end links, they serve as great photo accessories. Lean the watch against it or use it in the background to produce real professional-looking images. Or simply use them to admire the complexity of the movement in your favorite timepiece.

 

Pin Pusher

When I talked about the spring bar tool, I already told you that the Bergeon 6767 comes with a pin pusher head. This is a 5mm long straight pin that you can use the adjust the old-style micro adjuster on your bracelet claps. Old style bracelets, unlike newer screw versions, also use long pins to hold the bracelet pieces together. You can remove or add a link by pushing these pins out. For that, a spring bar tool might not be the best solution as the head length is not enough. You need to get a pin remover either from Bergeon or another quality producer. The key is definitely quality. You can find cheap Chinese tools that either break easily or fall apart eventually. I?m speaking from experience. A Bergon 7230 won?t cost more than ?15 and will be perfect for your needs.

Top Tip: For all of you professional pin removers check out a pin remover plier, like the Bergeon 6819.

 

Caliper

Something I use often, especially when I write watch reviews, is my digital caliper. You can?t imagine how useful this little tool can come around the house. Not only in connection with watches, though I have to admit I use it for stuff like that the most. To start with, it gives you accurate measures. Often times watch lugs are not 18mm or 20mm but 18.5, 19mm etc. If you want to find the perfect strap for that special piece you need to have the exact measures. Better yet, when you want to have straps custom made the caliper could give you those unusual lug widths. I measure the lug end to lug end of a watch with it. Or the thickness, even the width of the case. While you might think you don?t need these measures, they could improve your sales ad should you wish to sell a watch.

 

Time graph

The biggest mistake one can commit is to think that once he/she bought a watch there?s nothing else left to do and it will run forever. We know that this is far from the truth. A watch is a very complex mechanism, that is moving with you strapped to your arm. It runs constantly, takes physical impacts, withstands magnetization and so on. Its performance is crucial for its function, so we need to keep an eye on it. For that, having a time graph around is actually a good idea to keep an eye on the condition of the movement. Whether you use a professional one (?400-500), a cheaper but quality like this Lepsi or an app (we talked about here) does not really matter. As long as you check the accuracy every once in a while, it should be fine.

Good quality spring bars

This topic is another area where many don?t pay attention to details. A spring bar is the last security link between your (often super) expensive timepiece and the concrete floor in your garage. I hear guys telling me that they bought such and such alligator strap for XY hundred euros to match their vintage Gallet or Breitling. When I ask them where they got the spring bars from the answer is often: Oh, I bought them on eBay. Every size from 10mm to 20mm for only ?15. ? Now, you know where those are coming from and what quality they probably are. Unless your watch has fixed lugs, having quality spring bars is not only advisable but pretty much mandatory. They ? hopefully ? are less likely to break and secure the watch on your wrist. Check out Cousins or Ofrei for German or Swiss spring bars.

 

+ 1 screwdrivers

A set of screwdrivers are likely the tools you need the least. When you do, however, having quality ones is advisable. Many modern timepieces use screws instead of normal spring bars. Contemporary bracelets (sometimes even vintage ones) have screw links instead of push pins. I already talked about bolted case backs above. If a good spring bar tool can save you from scratching up your watch lugs, imagine how handy can a nice set of screws drivers come compared to some low-quality cheap ones. They mess up the screw head and scratch the surface of it. Been there, done that, it?s no fun. Furthermore, you can use them to tighten other objects like sunglasses? hinges. A nice set is around ?200+ however if you take care of them they will serve you well for many years to come.

 

Small Print

Not really, but a few things I find important to mention regarding this list. In general, quality is key. You can buy cheap (knock-off) versions of the pricier items on the list but it?s not worth it. They are often poorly made and do more damage than good. Of course, you should spend as much as you can afford. If you will use a screwdriver once a year at best, you don?t need the ?400 version. Or any, for that matter. Go to your local watch shop they often do these small repairs or changes for free. If, however, you decide on investing in these tools make sure you know how to use them. Ask your watchmaker to show you the ropes or watch YouTube videos. There?s plenty available online. This will help you avoid damaging your precious timepiece or the tool you just invested in.

 

Always execute any repairs or changes at your own risk. I cannot take responsibility for any damages and merely provide a list of tools that I think are useful. Alternatively, you could buy a cheap watch on eBay or at the local flea market and practice on that before you use your newly learned skill on your Patek Philippe 5970. Also, this article is NOT an ad paid by Bergeon, Ofrei or any other brand mentioned. I simply find the above products nicely made and affordably priced, that?s all.  Sites like Ofrei or Cousins are also great and offer a larger variety of tools in most price ranges. And last but not least, the items on the list are in no specific order. Buy what you need and what you will use.

Edited by Vit

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In-Depth Chronographe Suisse ? The Story Behind a Mysterious but Productive Chronograph Brand and Supplier

The affordable, ?authentic? timepiece for tourists in Switzerland.

 

It?s not uncommon for watch brands to outsource cases, movements, crystals, straps, etc. to assemble at their base location, and then stamp their name on the dial and call it their own. Not all companies can build from scratch and even major luxury brands use ETA movements and various outsourced components. Back in the 1940s, a brand known as Chronographe Suisse (Swiss Chronograph) provided inexpensive ?generic? chronograph watches and parts for brands to adopt and add their name. Even local jewellers branded these watches as their own. It sold watches with in-house ?Chronographe Suisse? branding as well, adding some confusion into the mix.

 

Popular in the European market as (relatively) cheap Swiss watches for tourists, Chronographe Suisse became a significant revenue source for small, often forgettable brands and many of these watches are collectables today. At its peak, over 500 workshops were producing watches with supplies from Chronographe Suisse. This successful business model thrived from the 1940s to the 1970s, before the quartz revolution wreaked havoc on the industry overall. Let?s take a closer look at this somewhat forgotten chapter of twentieth-century watch history.

 

The Brand Itself

 

It?s difficult to really pin down the roots of Chronographe Suisse. It often reminds me of companies like Seiko (relatively speaking, of course), which provides movements and parts to other brands, such as the Seiko calibre NH35A used by multiple micro brands. Those brands don?t have Seiko on their dials and the same movement powers many of Seiko?s own pieces. That?s not an entirely accurate comparison, however, as Chronographe Suisse didn?t produce in-house movements. Most of its watches, whether self-branded or adopted by others, had Swiss Venus, Landeron or Valjoux movements.

 

These companies provided high-quality, reliable but relatively inexpensive movements ? in the same vein as Seiko or ETA today (understanding that Seiko isn?t Swiss, but you get the idea). Many of its chronographs were stylish and high-end in appearance, using steel or thin gold-plated cases (in some cases solid 14k or 18k gold) and fancy dials. The perfect enticement for a tourist seeking an affordable Swiss timepiece. Solid gold cases were thin to reduce material costs and corners were often cut to increase production, but they were nevertheless popular mementos. They weren?t all cheap, however, with some higher-end models selling at established brand prices.

 

Commonly used movements for Chronographe Suisse included the cam-operated Landeron Calibre 48 (over 3.5 million were produced), which featured a conventional two-button layout after the three-button Calibre 47. It was a bit peculiar as the pusher at 2 o?clock started the seconds, while the one at 4 o?clock both stopped and reset it. It was a hand-wound movement with 17 jewels, 18,000vph (2.5Hz) and a 42-hour power reserve. Landeron goes back to 1873, but it wasn?t until 1924 that the company produced chronograph movements (and 1925 when it went by the name, Landeron).

 

The Venus Calibre 170 was another common Swiss movement for Chronographe Suisse watches. Established in 1923, Venus produced its first chronograph movement in 1933, the Calibre 103. Its column-wheel chronograph movements were lauded as among the best ever produced, including the Calibre 170, a hand-wound movement with 17 jewels, 18,000vph (2.5Hz) and a 40-hour power reserve. Venus also produced self-branded watches into the 1970?s.

 

Movements from Valjoux, such as the Valjoux 92, were also seen in Chronographe Suisse watches. Similar to the others, the Swiss hand-wound movement had 17 jewels, 18,000vph (2.5Hz) and a 39-hour power reserve. Landeron, Venus and Valjoux were all popular movement manufacturers that many high-end brands utilized, and they helped establish Chronographe Suisse?s reputation as a quality yet affordable Swiss alternative to established brands.

 

Alternate Branding

 

You can find a lot of Chronographe Suisse watches out there with obscure names on the dial from long-forgotten brands. Dreffa is one of the better-known companies (not that it?s widely recognized) that branded Chronographe Suisse dials with its name. Established in 1874 in Geneva, Switzerland by Armand Dreyffus, Dreffa became a luxury watch brand that pushed itself into the US market in the 1940s under the name, Dreffa Geneve. Many of its models were Chronographe Suisse pieces, often with both company names on the dial (Dreffa Geneve and Chronographe Suisse). Jacques Maguin acquired the Dreffa brand in 1985 and modified the logo, and it was acquired again in 2014 by TGX Holdings, with production continuing in both Geneva and Glashütte.

 

Other brands like Ultimor and Olympic appeared on Chronographe Suisse watches, only to disappear as the quartz crisis decimated smaller brands. A large percentage of these companies existed solely because of the Chronographe Suisse supply, which allowed assembly and simple dial modifications to be the major requirements for the existence of a watch brand. Not a bad set-up for motivated entrepreneurs.

 

Chronographe Suisse Collecting

 

Watches today, whether branded with Chronographe Suisse or a name you?ve never heard of, are popular with first-time vintage watch buyers and even seasoned collectors. 18k gold models can sell for over EUR 3,000, although it?s not hard to find gold (and especially gold-plated) models for well under EUR 2,000. I found a gold, 37mm model from the 1950s in good cosmetic and mechanical condition for under EUR 1,000. It has a Landeron Calibre 48 and two sub-dials at 3 and 6 o?clock. Not bad for a vintage Swiss chronograph.

 

Keep in mind that the gold case is unusually thin with hollow lugs, so you?re getting less material and robustness than what more established brands offered. The Landeron movement can also be expensive to service. Many steel Chronographe Suisse watches can be found for under EUR 500, so you don?t have to spend a fortune if you?re intrigued by the brand. My advice, especially if spending north of EUR 1,000, is to obtain a recent service history and clear pictures of the movement (if buying online) before committing.

 

Chronograph Suisse in the 21st Century

 

A small revival of Chronograph Suisse watches happened around 2010 with the Chronographe Suisse Mangusta Supermeccanica Stupenda (sounds Italian, but it?s Swiss). Various offshoots of this model were produced and it?s a modern throwback to the mid-20th century. Unlike the fashion-focused originals with acrylic crystals and smallish cases, the new watches have sapphire crystals, heavy steel cases around 45mm in diameter and water-resistance up to 200m. Movements in these models (called Calibre 26 automatics) are likely ETA 2894-2 automatic calibres with 37 jewels, 28,800vph (4Hz) and a 42-hour power reserve. Prices started at USD 5,000 and topped out at around USD 8,000. They can be found today for around USD 3,000 or less for clean examples.

 

Choosing between a ?new? Chronograph Suisse or vintage counterpart is like choosing between a 1955 Volkswagen Beetle or a 2010 model. Very different concepts for different people. I?d personally choose a vintage Chronographe Suisse with a Landeron Calibre 48 in steel. I find that combination the most interesting and nice examples won?t break the bank. Whether or not I choose an obscure brand on the dial or simply ?Chronographe Suisse? would depend entirely on how aesthetically pleasing the watch is.

 

Actual branding on the dial is insignificant to me (they?re all Chronographe Suisse pieces), although I know there are collectors who would wholeheartedly disagree. The few decades of Chronographe Suisse aren?t a well-known part of horological history, especially in North America, but the thousands upon thousands of watches produced not only give an interesting insight into pre-quartz watchmaking but provide vintage watch collectors with something affordable to acquire.

 

ZDROJ:

https://monochrome-watches.com/chronographe-suisse-the-story-behind-a-mysterious-but-productive-chronograph-brand-and-supplier/?utm_source=Monochrome+Newsletter&utm_campaign=ba7996fb37-RSS_EMAIL_CAMPAIGN&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_e51524d1fd-ba7996fb37-98128853&mc_cid=ba7996fb37&mc_eid=144e8b2da6

Edited by Vit

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Česká firma Chronotechna vybrala za 10 minut na výrobu nejtmavších hodinek půl milionu korun

 

https://www.czechcrunch.cz/2018/11/ceska-firma-chronotechna-vybrala-za-10-minut-na-vyrobu-nejtmavsich-hodinek-pul-milionu-korun/?utm_source=www.seznam.cz&utm_medium=sekce-z-internetu

 

Ta Chronotechna je Elton?

Edited by Vit

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Zajímavá limitka GS:

(hodně praktické ke košili ...  :frusty:  )

 

Introducing Grand Seiko SBGA211G Spring Drive ?Shuriken? Edition for Ninja?s The wait is over, finally a dedicated watch for modern and stylish ninja's

Finally, the wait is over, stylish ninja?s with a good taste for watches now have their own Grand Seiko with a practical built-in Shuriken. From now on, no mission with the Grand Seiko SBGA211G Spring Drive Ninja ?Shuriken? Edition or the fully mechanical Kunoichi model for the ladies.

Ordinary mechanical watches, and quartz watches alike, always make a ticking sound. While every quartz watch will tick once per second, mechanical watches will make an audible number of ticks depending on the movement?s frequency. This can be 5 ticks a second for movements with 18,000 vph, and up to 10 ticks per second for hi-beat movement with a frequency of 36,000 vph. For ninja?s who want to move around in absolute silence, the Seiko Spring Drive is the best solution, as this doesn?t have an audible tick.

 

Grand-Seiko-Ninja-Shuriken-April-Fools-1

 

The practical Shiruken-shape bezel is crafted in steel and polished with the Zaratsu technique to get razor-sharp edges. According to Seiko, the watch will never accidentally scratch or hurt anyone. Let?s assume a well-trained ninja knows how to handle a Shiruken and will not cause any ?accidental? wounds.

For women ninjas, Grand Seiko created the more glamorous Kunoichi watch in 18k rose gold. Its shuriken bezel has been set with diamonds, and inside ticks an automatic movement. More info at the special Grand Seiko Ninja website here.

 

 

Grand-Seiko-Ninja-Shuriken-April-Fools-2

 

ZDROJ: https://monochrome-watches.com/grand-seiko-sbga211g-spring-drive-shuriken-edition-ninjas/

Edited by Vit

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Nenachytali ťa prvého apríla, tak aspoň v piatok 13 im to vyšlo.  :lol2:

Edited by EDYMI

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Srovnání gumáků

:boxing: Crafter  :boxing:  Rubber B :boxing: Everest :boxing: Vanguard :boxing:

 

Tudor Black Bay Rubber Straps ? RubberB vs Crafter Blue vs Everest vs Vanguard

 

 

The Black Bay by Tudor is a collection of heritage-inspired dive watches with their Pelagos range covering the modern interpretation of a dive watch. Staying close to that heritage, the Black Bay is only available on distressed leather straps, riveted bracelets or fabric straps. Tudor do supply rubber straps that fit the end links of the Pelagos? titanium bracelet, but the Black Bay does not have an OEM rubber option. That?s left a niche in the market for third party manufacturers to thrive and develop rubber straps bespoke for the Tudor Black Bay?s lug and case design.

 

Rubber Straps

Below are 4 examples for comparison in ascending price brackets. For the purposes of this review, only rubber straps with fitting, curved ends will be tested. The 22mm lug width of the Black Bay allows multiple straps to be connected but due to the position of the lug holes, low down and farthest from the case, the non-bespoke straps leave a large, open gap. This is not just unsightly but also can be uncomfortable as it exposes the sharp edges on the underside of the lugs.

Many thanks to Ben Rexworthy of WristworthyUK for loaning the straps for this review. Ben did a great write-up, which you can read here including different watches on rubber straps. For this review, only one watch will be tested with the straps, my personal Tudor Black Bay 41mm, with a rotating black bezel and manufacture movement.

 

DISCLAIMER:

Where possible, the majority of these straps for review have a universal ?one-size-fits-all? length. However, at certain points of the review, the length of strap is mentioned as either positive or negative. My wrists are 18cm, which is fairly average but your wear experience may differ. Also, prices are quoted in US Dollars as that is the largest market for these straps and therefore would benefit the majority of the audience, but global shipping is available from all vendors.

Without further ado, here are the 4 options:

Crafter Blue Diver Straps ? $65.00

 

Kicking this off with the cheapest option is a Hong Kong-based company, Crafter Blue. Whilst mass-produced East Asian goods are a bit of a cliché, Crafter Blue are dive product specialists focussing solely on 2 brands, Seiko and Tudor. And even then, their rubber straps are only for the dive watch collections. The strap for review has a black outer coating and red inner lining, blending well with the red lume triangle on the bezel. Although, the red lining is still discreet whilst on the wrist.

 

Fitting the strap was a bit arduous, as the end curves that sit flush to the case have resistance when being pushed against the case. This means that it takes some force to connect the spring bars with the lug holes. However, this wasn?t the most difficult to attach on this list?keep reading. Once fitted, a tang buckle secures it well to the wrist but I did find the wide, angular tang doesn?t slot smoothly into the strap hole. This makes the act of putting it on and taking it off more hassle than it needs to be. The metal keeper is a nice touch but the ?PROFESSIONAL? text is superfluous and is not in keeping with the heritage nature of the Black Bay.

Crafter Blue metal keeper. Vanguard and Everest both have dual rubber keepers

The strap length was quite excessive and wrapped around near to the top of the watch case adding bulk. But I was pleased with the overall feel of the strap and was also glad that lint attraction was not an issue. You?ll see this was not an issue with the other straps, but I?ve seen even manufacture supplied rubber straps attract dust and fluff.

More about Crafter Blue for Tudor Black Bay can be found here.

Vanguard Speciality Straps ? $130.00

Moving on to a relative newcomer to fitted rubber straps is Dubai-based Vanguard. Again, there is a core focus on popular sports watch models, but the increased variety of colours and combos offers more freedom of choice.

 

At double the price of Crafter Blue, I still found issues with fitting the strap and nearly threw in the towel at some points. The problem is the steeply sloped lugs of the Black Bay that require equally sloped strap ends, which makes it an awkward shape on the underside. The spring bars are shrouded in thick rubber making it difficult to angle pliers to line up each lug hole simultaneously. Instead, I used a Bergeon spring bar tool, which offered more manoeuvrability but left the underside of the lugs exposed to scratches.

Crafter Blue, Everest and Vanguard

Once attached, the awkward shape is paid off with a seamless fit that angles towards the wrist. The snug fit is comfortable and the unique buckle differentiates itself from the typical square buckle. I also like the subtle fade from the centre section that gradually merges into a single flat surface. Minor gripe was the strap holes that were not angled and therefore could be seen stretching when the strap was worn tight. This could be especially prevalent if the strap is worn over a wetsuit sleeve. Overall, the fit was great but the act of fitting the Vanguard strap was enough to put me off from including it within my regular strap rotation. The underside of my lugs have suffered enough!

More about the Vanguard for Tudor Black Bay can be found here.

Everest Watch Bands ? $230.00

Going up another price level and you can certainly feel the difference in quality of the rubber especially when it comes to the next 2 suppliers from Switzerland.

 

Everest?s rubber selection has a more premium feel to it. Not only the softness of the rubber but the way it has been moulded. Clean crisp lines are seen throughout with nice and thoughtful design flourishes. This was by far the easiest strap to affix. Each length of strap has a variance of the thickness of the rubber, which determines the rigidity and pliability of the Everest strap.

 

The curved ends were reassuringly firm whilst the buckle felt flexible for everyday comfort. The trade-off for having a higher density of rubber at the ends is that the straps tend to bow outwards from the case. It looks OK when looking top down but from the side it is quite pronounced. It could be viewed as offering more breathing space for your wrist, but in my experience, it put more pressure on the underside of my wrist where the buckle attaches.

The strap ends bow outwards on the Everest strap

The buckle is fantastic though. A chunk of steel that is well machined and is complimented with angled strap holes that the tang effortlessly slips in. This attention to detail helps getting the watch off and on massively improving the wearing experience day-in, day-out.

More about the Everest for Tudor Black Bay can be found here.

RubberB Rubber Straps ? $250.00

 

Last but not least is the oldest player in the game. RubberB have been making rubber straps for Rolex for a while now and have ventured into similarly sporty watch brands over time. They are even affiliated with high-end, contemporary watch-maker, Roger Dubuis. With such pedigree, I had high expectations for the quality, and I wasn?t disappointed. RubberB is different feel to the rubber than the previous strap manufacturers mentioned above. The outer surface has a matte texture that feels slick to the touch, reducing the friction against other fabrics when sliding under a jacket cuff.

     

This particular version has the ability to be fitted with the Tudor designed deployant buckle as well as any normal tang buckle. You?ll need to have the fold-over buckle from Tudor though, so if you have the Black Bay distressed leather, it?s worth switching the buckle over to the RubberB for a secure deployant clasp. Once fitted, I found the surplus strap length a little excessive. I?m no John Cena but I?m also no pipe cleaner, and even I found the excess strap was catching on jacket sleeves and even belt loops as I was walking along. The only option available is a universal fit from RubberB but again, your wear experience may differ. The dual rubber keepers did well to hold in place, however.

The outer surface has a matte texture that feels slick to the touch, reducing the friction against other fabrics when sliding under a jacket cuff.

 

Zdroj (včetně fotek):

https://www.fratellowatches.com/tudor-black-bay-rubber-straps-rubberb-vs-crafter-blue-vs-everest-vs-vanguard/

Edited by Vit

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Článek o Orlících zde:

https://www.fratellowatches.com/diver-prim-orlik-52mondayz-week-5-2020/

 

Diver Prim Orlik ? 52Mondayz, week #5-2020

Czech military legend from 1965

 
January 27, 2020
4 MIN READ
Diver Prim Orlik ? 52Mondayz, week #5-2020
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With only 300 pieces ever produced, the prices of the Prim Orlik easily fetch north of ?10,000.

The Prim Orlik is undoubtedly the most sought-after watch to ever come out of the Czechoslovak industry. Many international buyers would immediately buy. But sadly, there are no offers. Only very seldom does one pop up for sale, and when that happens, it?s often offline.

 

Pioneering Prim Orlik

The Prim Orlik thoroughly deserves its cult status. It?s the first Czechoslovak watch with a stainless-steel case, the first Prim water-resistant watch, the first Prim watch with Incabloc, the first Prim watch with radioactive luminant, and the first Prim watch with a plastic strap. And, most importantly, the Prim Orlik is a tough tool watch that was developed especially for Czech military purposes.

 

Prim started from scratch

The Czech watch manufacturer started from scratch after WW2. It was too expensive to import watches long-term, so political aces decided that Czechoslovakia needed to build its own manufacturer. One key aspect of this story is the fact they did this without any watchmaking heritage or knowhow. The first prototypes of the model Spartak came in 1954, with commercial sales commencing in 1958. Just five years later, in 1963, the manufacturer from Nove Mesto nad Metuji received an order to construct military watches with quite challenging specs. 

Image Credit: IG / @praguevintagewatches

Brief parameters

The project chief constructor Josef Zid faced the challenge of creating a watch that would resist 60 meters dives, 8 g-force and temperature extremes ranging from -10°C to 45°C temperature. The minimum lifetime was set for five years in service and ten years when stored in a box.

The case and the crystal

Thanks to the special publication written by Libor Hovorka celebrating the 45th anniversary of Prim Orlik production, we know quite a lot about the watch, its construction, and testing. The case was initially planned to be produced from steel from local company Sandvik. As they could not deliver the necessary amount, Phoenix MAZ steel with a similar chemical structure was finally chosen. What is really special about Prim Orlik is the matt sanding that should help unwanted light reflection on the case.

One of the recorded tests confirmed perfect functionality for 24 hours in 10,5 ATM pressure that equals to 105 meters underwater dive.

The original acrylic UMAPLEX glass is 2.7mm thick and it?s installed from inside the case and mounted thanks to a threaded ring. One of the recorded tests confirmed perfect functionality for 24 hours in 10,5 ATM pressure that equals to 105 meters underwater dive.

Image Credit: IG / @praguevintagewatches

Hands, the movement and the bezel

The Prim Orlik handset is not flat. The hands are made of nickel-plated steel and are slightly convex. Famous Omega or Rolex models are the top targets for forgers for more reasons than the brands? fame. You won?t find this problem with Prim Orlik. It isn?t available (nobody wants to try and fake convex hands ? it?s a real headache). But if you want to be sure, you could look for a red 0-51 mark on the movement. The bezel, that is very similar to the early Omega Seamasters CK2913, is bi-directional. The radium dot instead of the 12 was painted by the Institute for Research, Production, and Utilization of Radioisotopes in Prague.

Image Credit: IG / @praguevintagewatches

The crown and the strap

From a construction perspective, the crown is pretty interesting too. Despite this being a diver?s watch, the crown doesn?t screw-down. It consists of eight parts and proves the craftmanship of the Czechoslovak pioneers in watchmaking. The form for the 19mm PVC strap was also designed and produced in-house. The luckiest owners not only own a beautiful original box, but also a third part of the strap that could be used to extend the strap so it could be worn over a diving suit.

Shot form a book PRIMKY by Libor Hovorka.

Tough testing

The first tests began in 1962, during which the Prim Orlik passed the -15°C temperature mark. A year later, official tests under the presence of the Ministry of National Defense started. Six prototypes spent 24 hours in a freezer at -10°C, just to be put for another 24 hours into a dryer with 45°C temperature. Not a single prototype stopped, all passing within the acceptable time tolerance. Three crash tests from a height of 3 meters also yielded positive results. The water resistance test surpassed the required mark, as all prototypes passed the 8AT pressure mark.

Image Credit: IG / @praguevintagewatches

Military tests

The last round of tests with the military units included a 12 g-force test. One of the recorded tests confirmed perfect functionality for 24 hours in 10,5 ATM pressure that equals to 105 meters underwater dive. Soldiers kept quite detailed records about the Prim Orlik?s reliability also beyond the borders of military service. One of the records kept by a Colonel state: ?The watch was used also during sports, basketball, volleyball, and bowling, where it took at least 10.000 swings. It was also frozen in ice and faced boiling temperatures for 2 or 3 minutes. I forgot it was there.?

Image Credit: IG / @praguevintagewatches

Pre-production adjustments

Before starting official production a few final changes were made. The lume indexes on the dial were a bit downsized. To ensure better reading, the shape of the lume on the hour handle was changed. The contrast between the hands was also improved by enlarging the lumed area on the minute hand. The lume dot on the bezel got fatter too. Last but not least, the strap was fitted with a steel buckle and stronger bars for attachment to the case.

Image Credit: IG / @praguevintagewatches

Delivery to the military

From the initial order asking for 600 watches, Prim managed to deliver only half of it due to a lack of raw materials and tool capacity. All 300 pieces were handed to the Army stock in the city of Olomouc on November 25th, 1965. Every single Prim Orlik was stamped on the case back with a 65-XXX, the 65 signifying the production year followed by a serial number.

Last thoughts

The Prim Orlik you see in pictures is in pristine condition. It belongs to my watch friend Milos from Prague who has kept it since he found it in 2013. ?With the Prim Orlik, you have the best of Czech watchmaking on your wrist. When I put it on my wrist for the first time, I knew that I would have it forever and will hand it over to my children. I always look forward to all the special occasions accompanied by it. When I put it on my wrist, I feel a bit like the Czech James Bond.?

Watch specifications BrandPRIM Model Orlik
Dial
Black dial, radium markers and luming
Case Material
Steel
Case Dimensions
Diameter 38mm, Height 12mm
Crystal
acrylic UMAPLEX glass is 2.7mm thick
Case Back
Signed 65 xxx (up to 300)
Movement
Prim in-house caliber 50
Water Resistance
min 6 ATM
Strap
PVC, with extra part for diver suit mounting
Functions
time, small second
Price
6.000 - 15.000 eur, based on condition
Special Note(s)
Created for Czech Military in early 1960's

 

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Berte, to je o tobě?

 

Bert?s Photo Book ? How It All began

 

Bert?s Photo Book ? How It All began

First steps in watch photography

 
January 26, 2020
2 MIN READ
Bert?s Photo Book ? How It All began
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In the past years, I?ve captured numerous watches from all kinds of brands. While most of the images are only used once or twice, some never see the light of day. Revisiting my archives is, therefore, a great pleasure, as I often come across images of a special watch I had forgotten, or just a shot that came out better than I thought it would. So to give those shots the attention that they deserve, we?re going to share them in this new series called Bert?s Photo Book.

I?ve previously shared some of my favorite close-up shots in my watch macro A-Z article, but now it?s time for a bit more variety. I could probably fill a few dozen topics with similar photos when I dig my way through my vast photo archive, but I wanted to pick images that illustrated what my life in and around the watch industry is like. To best tell that tale, it?s best I go all the way back to the beginning.

A life in pictures

With an interest in mechanical watches for many years, I got sucked into the online horological world some 15 years ago. Looking for info, I ran into the same forums over and over again. Eventually, I became a member of several myself. Without realizing, this moment marked the start of my photographic journey.

After posting a quick (and blurry) snapshot I made the remark, ?Will look into quality photography.? Needless to say, I was true to my word. I started experimenting endlessly with different sorts of lighting and set-ups. Within a few years, I had created multiple watch calendars, had my images published in several international magazines, and joined Fratello. And I realize some of these shots aren?t the most exciting ones, yet they are part of my journey in the world of photography.

Lume shots

Being one of those autodidacts, I learned things the hard way. Simply by trying and experimenting with the ideas that came to mind. One of the first things I played around with is lume shots. This is a subject that requires a lot of practice and trial and error to get things right. Although fun, it is also a challenge. Below is one of the first images I made. Capturing the luminous glow of some of my watches at the time in one image. For a little fun, why not see how many you can identify in the comments section below?

 

Using props

After doing these completely dark images I moved on to shooting watches you could actually see. Combined with some props I took the first steps in creating mood shots. Still nothing serious but it was all part of the process of getting experienced in capturing watches. Those experimental years helped me understanding light (and how to use it) better. While the learning curve was incredibly steep in the beginning, things all became easier before running into limitations again. This is where digital editing stepped in and it was the second learning curve in mastering photography.

 

While using single props in the beginning, things went into filling up the entire image with multiple items. Making the most of the available space in an image while maintaining focus on the most important part, the watch! Below are some samples which date back to around 2012.

 

Macro Photography

You could say that all watch photography is macro photography in some way. But zeroing in on the incredibly fine details of a watch has always been a personal passion of mine (in fact, it may come to dominate the Photo Book). At first, using just an extension ring in combination with my standard lenses (which is an easy and cheap solution to create macro photos). Without diving too deep in the subject, extension rings simply allow you to focus much closer to the subject. Below is one of my first super close-ups of the LEC, or laser etched coronet, of a Rolex 16610 Submariner.

 

Hope you enjoyed the short introduction to Bert?s Photo Book, the easy to digest, visual topic on Fratello. While I already have a few topics on my mind, any feedback is much appreciated. Feel free to leave ideas in the comments or just send me an email.

 

Edited by Vit

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Trochu mě překvapilo, že tam nevidím JLC.

 

What Are The Top 10 Swiss Watch Brands in 2019?

ZDROJ

 

If the value of Swiss watch exports has slightly increased in 2019, the industry has been facing numerous challenges over the past years. If the high-end Swiss watches remain attractive, the low/mid-end segments have been under pressure as the smartwatch expansion seems to have come at the expense of the lower-priced Swiss timepieces.

Most watch brands are traditionally secretive about their sales figures. Independents usually do not communicate numbers ? with the notable exception of Audemars Piguet. Listed groups such as Swatch, Richemont or LVMH do not provide details by brand in their financial statements.

 

Ever wondered just how big and popular can some of the largest watch brands get? MONOCHROME has listed the top 10 Swiss watch brands based on estimated 2019 sales. This article is based only on brands. As a comparison, the main actor of the Swiss watch industry is the Swatch Group, with estimated sales of CHF 8,000 Million in 2019 ? yet to be spread over 15 watch brands and multiple production sites, providing parts to the rest of the industry.

 

Disclaimer: This article is solely based on MONOCHROME?s own estimations, established by cross-checking different sources including notable data from Vontobel and Morgan Stanley over the past years, as well as our own knowledge of the industry. Estimates are for sales of watches only. MONOCHROME makes no representation as to their accuracy or completeness.

 

Top-10-Swiss-Watch-Brands-in-2019.jpg

 

1 ? ROLEX

  • Estimated watch sales: ~ CHF 5,500 Mio
  • Estimated number of watches sold: 950,000

?The Crown? is the undisputed leader of the luxury watch category and one of the most widely-known names in luxury. Controlled by the discreet Hans Wilsdorf foundation, the brand has cultivated and maintains a consistent brand image. If Rolex manufactures close to 1 million watches per year, their entire ?professional? collection has become borderline unobtainable given its success?

 

2 ? OMEGA

  • Estimated watch sales: ~ CHF 2,350 Million
  • Estimated number of watches sold: 650,000

Omega is the other giant of the industry and the mightiest Swatch group brand. The origin of the brand goes back as far as 1848. Omega is known for numerous achievements and has been involved in remarkable events. As the official timekeeper of the Olympic Games since 1932 and the creator of the first watch worn on the moon, it has a reputation for quality. With its Master Chronometer certification, Omega has established a new industry benchmark for precision, performance and magnetic resistance.

 

3 ? CARTIER

  • Estimated watch sales: ~ CHF 1,700 Million
  • Estimated number of watches sold: 450,000

The ?Jeweller of the Kings and King of Jewellers? is also one of the top watchmakers. The first mention of a watch in the Cartier records goes back as far as 1853. Owned by Switzerland-based Richemont, the brand is the main contributor to the profits of the group. A ?generalist? watchmaker, Cartier produces a wide range of watches from accessible pieces to the most exquisite Haute Horlogerie or jewelled watches.

 

4 ? LONGINES

  • Estimated watch sales: ~ CHF 1,650 Million
  • Estimated number of watches sold: 1,600,000

A Swatch Group-owned company for over 30 years, Longines was created in 1832 and can pride itself with one of the richest watchmaking traditions in the whole industry. Today, the brand stands out with a trusted name and excellent watches with an exceptional quality/price ratio.

 

5 ? PATEK PHILIPPE

  • Estimated watch sales: ~ CHF 1,500 Million
  • Estimated number of watches sold: 60,000

Still privately owned by the Stern family, Patek Philippe is usually regarded as the most exclusive and renowned brand among all Haute Horlogerie manufacturers. And when it comes to watches as an investment, Patek dominates the industry. Last fall, the Patek Philippe 6300A Steel ?Only Watch 2019? became the most expensive watch ever auctioned at CHF 31 Million? and their Nautilus is simply impossible to find at retailers.

 

6 ? AUDEMARS PIGUET

  • Estimated watch sales: ~ CHF 1,200 Million
  • Estimated number of watches sold: 40,000

Part of the ?Holy Trinity? of Haute Horlogerie, together with Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet remains an independent, family-owned business operating in the Vallée de Joux, the cradle of complicated watchmaking. The launch of the Royal Oak in 1972 marked a milestone in the brand?s history. Overturning prevailing codes, this icon of design defined a genre, the luxury sports watch.

 

7 ? TISSOT

  • Estimated watch sales: ~ CHF 1,000 Million
  • Estimated number of watches sold: 3,500,000

Created in 1853 in the Swiss Jura, Tissot boasts a long horological tradition. Today owned by the Swatch Group, Tissot watches are the most accessible from this top ten (which explains the greater volume) and stand out with a remarkable price/quality ratio.

 

8 ? IWC

  • Estimated watch sales: ~ CHF 825 Million
  • Estimated number of watches sold: 100,000

IWC was founded by American watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones in 1868. Jones set up in Schaffhausen to combine American production technologies with Swiss craftsmanship and expertise. Owned by Richemont, the brand is famed for its engineering excellence. Besides its complex Haute Horlogerie creations, IWC is known for high-quality sports and everyday watches, including pilot watches and chronographs.

 

9 ? HUBLOT

  • Estimated watch sales: ~ CHF 670 Million
  • Estimated number of watches sold: 60,000

Hublot was founded in 1980 by Italian Carlo Crocco. The brand has enjoyed a spectacular development following the entry of Jean-Claude Biver with the launch of the Big Bang and flamboyant marketing initiatives. Today a company of LVMH, Hublot has enjoyed continuous growth to make its way among the largest players of the industry.

 

10 ? TAG HEUER

  • Estimated watch sales: ~ CHF 650 Million
  • Estimated number of watches sold: 500,000

Owned by LVMH, TAG Heuer was founded in 1868 by Edouard Heuer. The brand has a strong history of innovation (TAG meaning Techniques d?Avant-Garde) and is a reference when it comes to sports watches, in particular, racing chronographs.

Edited by Vit

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Nevím, co si o tom mám myslet.

Nápad dobrý, ale mně by se víc líbilo, pokud by k tomu nedávaly ty repliky a vydali to jako jedno číslo (vydávat 8mi stránkový časopis mi připadá šílené).

A kde jsou sakra Orlíky?

 

Vojenské hodinky světa

https://www.magnetpress.cz/vojenske/vojenske-hodinky-sveta-predplatne/

 

Kolekcia obsahuje týchto 21 vojenských hodiniek:

 

  1. Sovětské obrněné jednotky ??80. léta? 
  1. Japonský voják?? 40. léta? 
  1. Britská RAF armáda?? 60. léta? 
  1. Německé námořní komando?? 60. léta? 
  1. Potápěč amerického námořnictva ? 70.?léta
  1. Izraelské námořní komando ? 60.?léta
  1. Americké expediční?síly???první?světová?válka
  1. Japonský pilot?? 40.?léta
  1. Brazilský?voják?? 60. léta
  1. Francouzský?námořník?? 40.?léta
  1. Australský?voják?? 70.?léta
  1. Francouzská?cizinecká?legie???50.?léta?
  1. Pilot?Luftwaffe?? 40. léta
  1. Indický?voják?? 70. léta
  1. Britský?výsadkář?? 40.?léta? 
  1. Portugalský?voják?? 60.?léta
  1. Potápěč?francouzského?námořnictva?? 80.?léta
  1. Potápěč?britského?námořnictva?? 80.?Léta
  1. Sovětský?pilot ? 40.?léta?
  1. Francouzský?pilot ? 50.?léta
  1. Pilot RAF ? 50.?léta?

 

 

 

Také vás dráždí, když někdo vyfotí naopak nasazené hodinky?

 

vhs01-p1011340-750.jpg

Edited by Vit

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The Start of The Downturn ? Swiss Watch Exports Down 9% in February 2020 (and it?s just the beginning?)

And the effects of the coronavirus are not even fully reflected yet.

The FHS, the Swiss Watch Federation, just released its exports statistics for the month of February 2020, and, as you might expect, these are down. The value of the exports contracted by 9.2% to 1.6 billion CHF. But, this does not even reflect the severe and scary situation on the market. If exports were down 51% to China and down 42% to Hong Kong, shipments to the US were still up 17.8%, as the epidemy had not hit the country yet. The same situation is visible in Germany (+7.3%), France (+12.6%) and Italy (+5.0%). The Coronavirus Pandemic, as of March 2020, has now spread globally and this is just the beginning of the downturn for Swiss watch exports?

Naturally, Coronavirus is first a health problem, but second an economic one. The luxury industry, including the Swiss watch industry, is expected to be amongst the hardest-hit sectors. Consumer consumption collapses as many countries are now under complete lockdown. Billions of luxury sales will be wiped off as travel restrictions put the brakes on the spending of Chinese. Without mentioning that the mood is simply not for luxury spending.

Declines were seen in all sectors. They were extremely marked in the 200-500 francs (export price) range, which fell by more than half. Below 200 francs and between 500 and 3,000 francs, export turnover declined by 18%. The damage was limited for watches priced over 3,000 francs, which remained at almost the same level as last year.

 

Rolex-production-shut-down-coronavirus.j

Rolex, like most major watch manufacturers, has halted production for safety reasons, preventing the coronavirus to spread over its employees.

In Switzerland, the two major watch shows ? Watches & Wonders Geneva and Baselword ? joined the list of events cancelled or postponed. At MONOCHROME, we receive news of events and product launches postponed almost every day. Most of the manufactures are now shut down. Majors brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Hublot or TAG Heuer have closed production sites for several days at least. The entire supply chain is disrupted with suppliers closed too (Sellita for instance). The Swiss government locked down the nation and short-time working (RHT ? Réduction d?Horaires de Travail) is one of the Swiss remedies to cope with the situation. To preserve skill and jobs, Swiss companies can reduce the working time of staff (up to 80%) and the non-working time can be covered by unemployment insurance. Most brands and companies are basically in crisis mode, activating contingencies procedures to protect their staff while trying to ensure business continuity, saving cash and planning for an eventual recovery.

The pandemic will take a heavy toll and wreak havoc on the watch industry. The coronavirus crash will most likely be worse than the 2008 subprime crisis. Stocks of luxury giants LVMH, Swatch Group or Richemont have plunged 35% to 45% versus recent highs.

To end this on a somewhat optimistic note, the situation is improving in China. Chinese shoppers now emerge from quarantine and are slowly returning to mall and stores. As reported by Bloomberg, some are even hoping for a luxury rebound driven by ?revenge spending?.

More details and full report at fhs.swiss.

 

ZDROJ:

https://monochrome-watches.com/the-start-of-the-downturn-swiss-watch-exports-down-9-in-february-2020-and-its-just-the-beginning/?mc_cid=a01046a6ab&mc_eid=144e8b2da6

 

A teď babo raď, budou nedostupné modely více přístupné díky omezení zájmu v Číně, Honkongu a USA nebo se stanou díky uzavření továren ještě více nedostupné?

Edited by Vit

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