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Tyhle Rolex mě zaujaly, o existenci takových modelů jsem neměl ponětí:

 

A Few Complicated Rolex Watches From The Archives

Who said Rolex does not make complicated watches?

March 24, 2020
3 MIN READ
A Few Complicated Rolex Watches From The Archives
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You don?t have to spend too long in or around the luxury watchmaking industry to be aware of the modern Rolex classics such as the Submariner, GMT Master II, or the Datejust. Within the modern collection, a few more complicated watches exist, like the Sky-Dweller, Yacht-Master II, and Cellini Moon Phase. Although less common these days, complicated watches have played a huge part in the brand?s history.

For example, one of the rarest Rolex models, very much sought after by worldwide collectors is reference 8171. This 38mm model features a complete calendar with moon phase complication also. It is nicknamed ?Padellone? by Italian collectors. It gets this moniker from its dimensions in relation to the period of production (1949-1952). During that time only about  1,000 examples in steel, yellow, or pink 18 ct gold were made. It is certainly an attractive piece.

ref.-8171.jpg Rolex reference 8171

The case is made in three pieces (the bezel, the ?carrure? or ?case middle?, and the case back). Along the edges of the ?carrure?, beyond the winding crown, we find four recessed push-pieces. These allow for the adjustment of the calendar. The one positioned at 2 o?clock updates the month. The 4 o?clock push-piece adjusts the date. At 8 o?clock, we have the moon phase adjuster. And the last button, which calls the 10 o?clock position home, can alter the day of the week. The steel ?push-back? case back is held to the ?carrure? by friction rather than the thread one might expect to find on a modern Rolex.

The dial ? which is always white for the steel model ? has the typical layout of the complete calendars of the 1950s. At the top of the dial there are the two small windows for the day of the week and the month, and at the bottom, the sub-dial for the seconds and the moon phase. The date is shown on the outer ring of the dial by a hand terminating in an arrow. Normally, only gold watches were submitted for chronometer certification. In fact, in those years, the movements of the ref. 8171 in steel were not sent to the C.O.S.C. (the Swiss Office of Chronometer Control). Also, this reference has a caliber 10 1/2 ??? surrounded by an anti-magnetic metal ring.

mondani-ref.-6062.jpg

Rolex reference 6062

In 1950 Rolex created another complete calendar watch with a moon phase complication. But for this model, reference 6062, a 36mm Oyster case was used. As such, it is made in only two pieces: monobloc bezel ? the ?carrure? and a screw-down case back. Fitted to the case middle we can again find the 4 buttons for adjusting the calendar. In a print advert of that time, Rolex describes the watch in this way: To be noted that the four buttons, which are usually voluminous, have been completely ?fused? onto the case.?

This indicates that this model has passed the precision tests.

This reference originally had a Super Oyster (S.O.) crown and the accompanying tube. This was substituted for the ?Twinlock? system. On the dial, at the 12 o?clock position, there are two small rectangular windows for the day of the week and the month. At 6 o?clock, we can see the moon phase sub-dial. Printed on that sub-display are the words: OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED CHRONOMETER (OCC). This indicates that this model has passed the precision tests.

ref-6062.jpg

Produced between 1950 and 1953

Ref. 6062 was produced between 1950 and 1953. There were 350 examples in yellow gold, 50 in pink gold, and a limited number in steel. It is fitted with caliber 9 3/4??? N.A. (Ref. CPL), which is also surrounded by an anti-magnetic metal ring. This reference was publicized in Rolex catalogs as the COSMOGRAPH OYSTER PERPETUAL. It didn?t have much success at the time. Only the gold model remains present in the official catalogs until 1960.

Today these models achieve very high prices at the international auctions (Phillips by Bacs and Russo sold a Rolex. ref. 6062 ? an extremely rare, highly attractive and important stainless steel triple calendar wristwatch with a two-tone dial, moon phase, and bracelet ? in May 2018 for CHF 1,452,500.

REF.-4113.jpg

Rolex reference 4113

Perhaps the rarest Rolex watch ever is the Split-Second Chronograph (Rattrappante) ref. 4113. Just 12 examples exist. Additionally, this model was only made of steel. It has two rectangular pushers. There is a coaxial button on the crown. The dial, which is very handsome, has applied indices, as well as tachymeter and telemeter scales. Twin center hands and the 3 o?clock sub-dial relay the chronograph information.

The split-seconds chronograph complicated originated from the need to measure the time of two events which start at the same moment but don?t finish at the same moment. After beginning together, one of the two hands can be stopped, thereby determining the first time measurement. Another click causes the stopped hand to catch up with the first immediately. They can then resume their march together again. Furthermore, one can stop the second hands at the same time or separately. One can also reset the hands simultaneously or separately.

Complicated Rolex Watches

Phillips by Bacs and Russo sold a Rolex. ref. 4113 (an extraordinarily rare, oversized stainless steel split-seconds chronograph wristwatch with outer blue telemeter and black tachometer scales) in November 2019 for CHF 1,940,000. Would you like to know more about complicated Rolex Watches? Follow me on Instagram and, above all, don?t hesitate to ask me any questions you might have! @giorgiamondani. Photos and information come from the ?Steel Rolex? Book by Giorgia & Guido Mondani available at https://mondanibooks.com/

 

ZDROJ:

https://www.fratellowatches.com/a-few-complicated-rolex-watches-from-the-archives/

Edited by Vit
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Potom, že se nedá vypyslet vic nového:

ZDROJ:

https://monochrome-watches.com/h-moser-cie-x-mbandf-endeavour-cylindrical-tourbillon-hands-on-price/?mc_cid=519af42b1e&mc_eid=144e8b2da6

H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon (Live Pics & Price)

Horological genetic manipulations.

20 hours ago | By Xavier Markl | 3 min read |

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81
Moser-MBandF-Endeavour-Cylindrical-Tourb

Watch collaborations are not new, on the contrary. For a creative laboratory like MB&F, working with ‘friends’ is second nature. And when H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F team up for a collaboration piece (actually, two pieces, more in another article), the result is truly special. Edouard Meylan (H. Moser & Cie.) and Maximilian Büsser (MB&F) are presenting co-signed creations, giving birth to some surprising and interesting types of horological cross-hybridization, pooling their skills… Let’s take a closer look at one of these two watches, the new H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon.

Moser-MBandF-Endeavour-Cylindrical-Tourb

The independent brands H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F have been working together for more than ten years with Precision Engineering AG – a sister company of Moser supplying MB&F’s balance springs. Their CEOs appreciate and respect each other on both a personal and professional level. When Max Büsser called Edouard Meylan for a collaboration, mentioning fumé dials and the Concept watch series, Meylan immediately accepted on the condition that he could reinterpret one of MB&F’s horological machines… Based on this two-way hybridization process, H. Moser & Cie. started to work on the Flying Tourbillon. 

 

Moser-MBandF-Endeavour-Cylindrical-Tourb

To create the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, H. Moser & Cie. borrowed MB&F’s three-dimensional movement concept. Protected by an impressive sapphire dome, a one-minute flying tourbillon rises above a fumé dial through an opening at 12 o’clock. And what a mesmerizing tourbillon… Pure ‘watch-geekgasm’. Drawing on the expertise of its sister company Precision Engineering AG, Moser has equipped its tourbillon with a cylindrical hairspring, the same as used on the MB&F LM Thunderdome. 

Moser-MBandF-Endeavour-Cylindrical-Tourb

Moser-MBandF-Endeavour-Cylindrical-Tourb

A spectacular technical solution, such hairsprings allow the spring to breathe evenly and improve isochronism. But these are more complex to manufacture and require more space… Another nod to MB&F, the dial that displays the time is tilted 40 degrees, paired with a conical gear train in pure MB&F fashion. The dial is fashioned out of transparent sapphire to provide an unimpeded view of the signature Moser dial. 

The eye-catching animated mechanical architecture is driven by the self-winding HMC-810. Based on the HMC 802 (that itself uses parts from the caliber HMC 200), this 32mm calibre runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour and has an autonomy of 72 hours when fully wound. The automatic winding is bi-directional. It is beautifully finished, with bevelled bridges, screwed gold chatons and Moser stripes, and the gold skeletonized rotor is engraved with the H. Moser & Cie hallmark.

Moser-MBandF-Endeavour-Cylindrical-Tourb

The case of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon is made of stainless steel. It is 42mm in diameter and comes with the traditional Endeavour features, such as the distinctive lugs with their fluid concave profile. The fluted and Moser-signed crown is positioned at 9 o’clock. The massive sapphire dome is typical of MB&F’s production but perfectly fits within Moser’s DNA too.

Moser-MBandF-Endeavour-Cylindrical-Tourb

The H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon is available in five different gradient dial versions: Funky Blue, Cosmic Green, Burgundy, Off-White or Ice Blue dials. Each version is a limited edition of 15 pieces. This number is a nod to the 15th anniversary of MB&F and to the 15th anniversary of the relaunch of H. Moser & Cie. Price is set at CHF CHF 79,000.

For more information, please visit www.h-moser.com.

 

Technical specifications – H. Moser & Cie x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon

Case: 42mm diameter x 19.5mm height (crystal included) - stainless steel case, polished - domed sapphire crystal - sapphire caseback - water resistant to 30m / 3 ATM
Dial: sunray-brushed gradient dial available in Funky Blue, Cosmic Green, Burgundy, Off-White or Ice Blue - time read on a sub-dial in sapphire with luminous leaf hands
Movement: calibre HMC 810, in-house - automatic - 32mm x 5.5mm - 29 jewels - 21,600 vibrations/hour - 72h power reserve - hours and minutes indication, one-minute flying tourbillon with cylindrical hairspring
Strap: hand-stitched alligator leather strap with folding buckle
Availability: 5 limited editions of 15 pieces
References: 1810-1200 Funky Blue, 1810-1201 Burgundy, 1810-1202 Cosmic Green, 1810-1203 Off-White,1810-1205 Ice Blue
Price: CHF 79,000
 
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Tady jsou jedny levnější:

ZDROJ:

https://monochrome-watches.com/mbandf-x-h-moser-cie-lm101-fume-dials-hands-on-price/?mc_cid=519af42b1e&mc_eid=144e8b2da6

 

MB&F x H. Moser & Cie. LM101 Fumé Dials (Live Pics & Price)

A collaborative project in pure indie style.

21 hours ago | By Brice Goulard | 4 min read |

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62
MB&F x H. Moser Cie LM101 Fume Dial

What happens when two of the most emblematic and well-established independent watchmakers pick up the phone and discuss a potential watch? The answer is here, the result of a collaboration between MB&F and H. Moser & Cie. Even though the ties binding the two brands have existed for more than 10 years, this time it’s not about exchanging components. It’s about blending DNA. In the frame of a two-way collaboration, resulting in two watches (the other presented in a separate article), here’s what happens when a piece by Büsser receives a fumé dial. Meet the MB&F x H. Moser & Cie. LM101. 

MB&F x H. Moser Cie LM101 Fume Dial

The idea of a collaborative laboratory is one of the founding principles of Max Büsser’s MB&F, co-signing the watches with some of the most talented artists, watchmakers, parts producers, designers… It’s all about the ‘F’ (which stands for ‘friends’) in the MB&F name. On the other side is Edouard Meylan and H. Moser & Cie., which not only create their own timepieces but have also been collaborating with Büsser for over 10 years, through Precision Engineering AG – a sister company of Moser that supplies balance springs. But today, the collaboration between these two passionate men, who know and respect each other for years, is moving a few steps further, in a two-way street project. On one side is a H. Moser & Cie. with MB&F elements.

 

MB&F x H. Moser Cie LM101 Fume Dial

MB&F x H. Moser Cie LM101 Fume Dial

On the other side is the present LM101 with multiple elements borrowed from Moser, as Max explains: “When I called Edouard to tell him that I wanted to collaborate on a creation, I mentioned that I really liked the double balance-spring, the Moser fumé dials and the Concept watch series. Edouard immediately told me that he would let me borrow these features, but on condition that he could also reinterpret one of my machines” (which gave birth to the other watch). So here we are with an MB&F concept watch… No name, no logo, no inscriptions, just the ultra-cool and immediately recognizable fumé dial, so dear to H. Moser & Cie.

MB&F x H. Moser Cie LM101 Fume Dial

“Back to basics”, the 101 of the Legacy Machine, the quintessential MB&F… This collaboration piece is based on the LM101, a watch introduced a few years ago as a reasonable offering from the usually zany brand. Smaller, at 40mm, but no less bold in concept, the LM101 is Moserized and conceptualized to become something nude and bold at the same time. The watch is housed in a stainless steel case, with the usual MB&F design and alternation of brushed and polished surfaces. It is worn on a relatively low-key brown calf strap, so nothing can interfere with the pièce de résistance, the theatrical dial/display.

MB&F x H. Moser Cie LM101 Fume Dial

What really changes in this MB&F x H. Moser & Cie. LM101 is the face of the watch, which not only gets a new dial but more of Moser’s details. The dials are the typically Moser sunray-brushed, gradient (so-called fumé) and intensely coloured base, available here in four colours – Funky Blue fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Red fumé or Aqua Blue fumé (the latter being an exclusive for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons). Also, in the same vein, just like concept watches by Moser, the LM101 gets rid of the logo, tracks, indexes and inscriptions usually found on its dial. A small update is to be noted on the bezel, which is slightly thinner than usual.

MB&F x H. Moser Cie LM101 Fume Dial

What doesn’t change is the display, composed of an off-centred indication with hours and minutes at 2 o’clock and a power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock. Also, the signature arched bridge, holding the oversized and centrally positioned balance, as well as the visible escapement, have been kept – in true Legacy Machine spirit. However, there’s also some Moser DNA here, as the beating heart has been fitted with a double balance spring produced by Precision Engineering AG. Thanks to this pair of matching balance springs, the displacement of the point of gravity undergone by each spring as it expands is corrected, significantly improving precision and isochronism in a continuous quest for perfection. In addition, the paired balance springs also reduce the friction effect normally encountered with a single balance spring, resulting in optimised isochronism.

Through the caseback of the MB&F x H. Moser & Cie. LM101 is the brand’s in-house developed hand-wound calibre, with its pocket-watch inspired bridges and decoration – with, as co-creator of the finishes, Kari Voutilainen. The bridges are dark grey with a NAC treatment, enhancing their beauty and contrasting with the polished or golden parts, such as the screws, the wheels, the chatons and the anglages. The movement beats at 2.5Hz and stores up to 45 hours of power reserve.

Availability & Price

The four editions of the MB&F x H. Moser & Cie. LM101 will each be limited to 15 pieces – a nod to the 15th anniversary of MB&F as well as honouring the 15th anniversary of the relaunch of H. Moser & Cie. The Aqua Blue version will only be available at retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. This edition of the LM101 will be priced at CHF 53,000. www.mbandf.com.

 

Technical specifications – MB&F x H. Moser & Cie. LM101

Case: 40mm diameter x 16mm height (crystal included) - stainless steel, brushed and polished - ultra-domed sapphire crystal - sapphire caseback
Dial: sunray-brushed fumé dial with gradient colour, made by H. Moser & Cie. - available in Funky Blue fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Red fumé or “Aqua Blue fumé”
Movement: three-dimensional horological movement developed in- house by MB&F - hand-wound - 23 jewels - 221 components - oversized balance wheel, dial side - Straumann double hairspring - 18,000 vibrations/hour - 45-hour power reserve - hours, minutes and power reserve indicator
Strap: brown hand-stitched calfskin strap - stainless steel pin buckle
Availability: Limited edition of 15 pieces for each reference
The Aqua Blue fumé dial is reserved to retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons
Price: CHF 53,000
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Něco z českých luhů a hájů ve světovém tisku:

Dvě nezkreslené fotky zcela dole.

ZDROJ:

https://www.fratellowatches.com/does-the-prokop-broz-spiral-have-the-most-complicated-crystal-ever/

Does The Prokop & Broz Spiral Have The Most Complicated Crystal Ever?

It takes the Czech manufacturer four months to finalize one crystal

I was never a fan of artsy glassware. I always preferred paintings. But when I listened to Jan Prokop explaining the sandwich crystal creation process for their limited-edition watch, the Prokop & Broz Spiral, I could barely breathe. The work is so delicate that they have to make around 150 to 200 crystals to be able to select just one final perfect piece ready for installation.

A standard watch crystal is usually formed as a sapphire monobloc. The dial of the Prokop&Broz Spiral is covered by a delicate set of glass pieces that Jan Prokop refers to as a metalized glass sandwich composed of twenty-two components.

Prokop_Broz_Spiral

Glass Sandwich on the Prokop & Broz Spiral

The process begins with almost 300 calibrated laboratory glass plates. Each plate has to be “vacuum metalized”, which means that a very thin layer of metal is printed on it. The resulting material has a mirrorlike surface. Such a surface is absolutely unattainable with other printing solutions. In the next step, all the plates are glued together with a special UV glue that achieves the same refractive index as the glass after it dries. Below you can see an example of such a 50×75×30cm glass block ready for further processing.

Prokop_Broz_Spiral_Block

The eagle-eyed among you might have noticed that the glass plates are glued together at a specific angle. This is deliberate. The glass sandwich is inclined at 51° angle towards the sixth-hour mark. Why? Because this is the angle of reflection that is able to create a secondary rainbow.

 

 

Now comes the tricky part

Prokop & Broz takes the sandwich glass block and diamond-cuts it into 2mm thick layers. Next, another .5mm is polished off each side. Any quality controls before that stage are meaningless. Until the glass sandwich achieves its final 1mm thickness, any mistakes or imperfections are hardly discernable. Prokop & Broz inspects the glass to check if the metallization effect appears equally on every piece of glass. Also, the glue must remain invisible after curing.

Prokop_Broz_Spiral_Main

Strong sandwich

Once the sandwich passes through this strict control, it is attached to the other, fully transparent, half. To hold the whole structure together, there is another thin piece of sapphire glued from below and above. A sandwich glass constructed this way is as strong — or perhaps even more solid — than the standard watch glass. There are no subcontractors for this job, all is done in-house at Prokop & Broz.

Prokop_Broz_Spiral_Glass

Glass Sandwich during the inspection.

Piece of art

If you are fascinated by the glass as an art form, then the Spiral is definitely a piece to strive for. During the prototyping of the metalized glass sandwich, the watch creators worked on advice from Czech glassmaking master Jan Frydrych. Frydrych has held solo and collective exhibitions all around the world and his glass objects can be seen in the most prestigious international galleries. And now, a piece of his work could be visible on your wrist too. There are no Spiral watches sitting in the stockroom at Prokop & Broz as each piece is custom made. If you are bored of waiting for the Rolex you ordered a few years ago, you can reallocate your budget to the Czech Republic capital instead. The Prokop & Broz Spiral can be yours for €17,000.

Glass is not the only virtue

The Spiral watch was created as an artistic object, offering a harmony of contemporary technology with physics and philosophy. Nothing about this watch is straightforward. Jan Prokop says the idea was to make people think. And I can tell you, it’s not just the glass you’ll be thinking about. While typically the dial is in a fixed position and the hands are the moving elements above it, the Spiral disrupts the status quo. The Yin-Yang dial rotates once in 24 hours. The hour “hand” (the claw-like design emanating from the center toward the traditional 12 o’clock position) is printed on the underside of the upper sapphire glass. The minutes are shown via a “floating“ tooth at the edge of the dial. It’s basically another transparent disc attached to the center and metalized at the edge with a creative pointer.

Prokop_Broz_Spiral_00004.jpg

Speaking of the dial, you might notice an unusual depth coming from it. When I asked Jan Prokop about the dial printing technology, he was quite hesitant. While he didn’t mind mentioning the smallest details about the glass sandwich production, the dial will remain the mystery. “Any exhibition we attend, everybody wants to know how we print our dial. The only thing I can say is that we use our own technology process that makes it look as if it were porcelain.“ When I asked about the patent, Jan Prokop just laughed. To file a patent means writing the technology down. Prokop & Broz prefers not to reveal its know-how. The brand prefers instead to keep it within a very close circle.

Try it yourself

Jan Prokop explains why he is not afraid to share the glass sandwich production method in more detail. “The process behind the glass sandwich production is so complicated, that I am not really afraid of copycats. Even the biggest professionals in the industry can make a mistake in any of the numerous steps. And you won’t see them until you get the final glass ready. Honestly, there is no other way to manufacture this than in small runs.”

Prokop_Broz_Spiral_00003.jpg

The Yin-Yang dial is powered by an in-house manual wound caliber PB11 HS, which is a half skeletonized version of the PB10 with an adjustment that makes it a 24-hour version. The transparent exhibition case back offers an excellent view of the movement, especially when considering the 43,5mm watch diameter. If you look at the case-back picture, you will notice the custom three-holed heads on the case back screws. It’s similar to the Prokop & Broz symbol that pops up again on the onion crown.

The case and lugs

The case of the Prokop & Broz Spiral comes in polished steel with contrasting brushed lugs. While we are used to seeing watch cases and lugs milled from a single block, all four lugs of the Spiral are individually crafted and attached separately. It’s not a very apparent detail, but a huge one. A detail you won‘t get with any serial production watch.

Prokop_Broz_Spiral_00007.jpg

The lugs are created by electrical discharge machining, which allows for incredibly precise component replication. The lugs are fitted into the case by hand. It’s really a time consuming and highly demanding process, but it is worth every bead of sweat and every second spent. And despite the unusual lug attachment, the Spiral can still withstand up to 10 ATM pressure.

I need the borders to open

Prokop & Broz Spiral is limited to 85 pieces only. It emphasizes the dual principle of day and night, light and shadow, or good and evil. Would I take it as my daily watch? Not sure, as I haven’t laid my hands on it yet. If I was looking for something out of the box, possibly. But I can tell you for sure that when the borders open, on my next trip to Prague I will head directly to Prokop & Broz to see the Spiral in the metal.

Prokop_Broz_Spiral_Main
Prokop_Broz_Spiral
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

Watch specifications

Model
Spiral
Dial
Rotating disc made by the unique technology Prokop&Broz
Case Material
High polished stainless steel 316L
Case Dimensions
43.5 mm diameter
Crystal
Special Glass sandwich composed of twenty-two components
Case Back
Transparent
Movement
PB 11 HS, mechanical movement with manual winding, 24-hour dial
Water Resistance
10 ATM
Strap
Hand made antiallergic strap from a fine calf leather with the signed Prokop&Broz buckle
Functions
24h dial, fixed hour pointer, rotating minute disc, special sandwich glass
Price
€ 17,000
Edited by Vit
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Vypadají hezky, ale bronzový tah bych asi na ruce nechtěl.

The heavyweight all-bronze contender in the Divers Sixty-Five collection, complete with a solid bronze bracelet.

Today Oris unveils a new, quite striking and original watch, a solid bronze piece in a limited run of 250 pieces, designed to pay tribute to Hölstein, the village where Oris was founded in 1904. An all-bronze version of the Divers Sixty-Five chronograph, it is the first watch made in Switzerland to feature a solid bronze bracelet… And probably the boldest Oris so far. Let’s have a closer look at the Oris Hölstein Edition 2020 Bronze.

 

Oris Hölstein Edition 2020 Bronze

Brief background

Oris was founded in June 1904 by Paul and Christian Cattin in the village of Hölstein, Switzerland and was named after a nearby brook. Within the first year, the company had 67 employees and a solid production of pocket watches. By the late 1930s, Oris was producing its first pilot’s watches with a big crown and pointer calendar function and by the 1960s Oris was one of the 10 largest watch companies in the world, producing over 1 million watches a year. However, the year that concerns us here is 1965 when Oris launched its first diver’s watch with a unidirectional rotating bezel and 100m water-resistance.

tapping into the trend for Retro and Bronze

In 2015, Oris resuscitated its vintage diver and created the Divers Sixty-Five collection. The faithful retro aesthetics of the model won immediate favour and were also an eye-opener for many watch enthusiasts who couldn’t get over the excellent price/quality ratio. Although some argued that its 100m water-resistance was not compatible with a professional dive watch (although highly debatable), the Sixty-Five collection combines nostalgia for yesterday watches with enough robust functionality for everyday wear and tear.

The first bronze watch to make its debut at Oris was in 2016, a watch with a bronze case and bezel dedicated to US Navy Master Diver Carl Brashear. From 2016 on, bronze and bi-metal bronze/steel cases have popped up fairly regularly with the Oris Sixty-Five Steel and Bronze in three-hand and chronograph versions and this Oris Divers with a two-tone bronze and steel case and bracelet. Today, the Divers Sixty-Five collection welcomes the solid bronze homage to Hölstein model.

Solid Bronze, Case & bracelet

The case measures 43mm in diameter and has a height of 16.93mm. The unidirectional rotating bezel, the chronograph pushers and screw-down crown are entirely crafted in bronze. In fact, the only part of the case that is not made from bronze is the caseback. Taking into account the amount of bronze used here, it is a heavy watch, but not quite as heavy as gold. The top surfaces are brushed and the pushers, crown, markings on the bezel and the sides of the case are polished.

Oris Hölstein Edition 2020 Bronze

However, the novelty of the Oris Hölstein Edition 2020 is the bracelet, with solid bronze links. Given the malleable nature of this metal, bronze wasn’t strong enough to be used for the pins to hold the links together or for the folding clasp. These features, along with the caseback are made from stainless steel. Bronze is an alloy formed primarily from copper and is characterised by its dull-gold colour.

Oris Hölstein Edition 2020 Bronze

 
 

Over time, bronze oxidates to form a mottled, greenish surface. Patina is an entirely organic reaction and no two bronze cases will ever age in the same way. However, to avoid the watch looking like something salvaged from the Titanic, Oris has developed a special bronze alloy and the part of the caseback that comes in contact with the skin is made from steel. Another detail is the engraving of the smiling Oris teddy bear on the screw-down caseback along with the limited edition number xxx/250.

Oris Hölstein Edition 2020 Bronze

Golden Panda Dial

Set against a golden background, the twin counter layout on the dial underscores the vintage vibe of the watch. The two sub-dials – running seconds at 9 o’clock and 30-min elapsed time counter at 3 o’clock – have a snailed black background and white markings with a lick of lume on the hands. The skeletonized hour hand and the longer minute hand are filled with white lume, as are the applied hour markers. In the dark, the lume glows blue on the dial although the dot on the bezel emits a green light. Protected by a steeply domed sapphire crystal, the golden dial with its black counters is extremely legible.

Oris Hölstein Edition 2020 Bronze

 

Automatic Chronograph movement

The Sixty-Five Chronograph is equipped with an automatic chronograph movement – calibre Oris 771 –  based on Sellita SW 510 with a decent 48-hour power reserve. Although the caseback is sealed, the rotor is hallmark Oris red.

Availability and price

As mentioned, the Oris Hölstein Edition 2020 is limited to 250 pieces and is now available in Oris boutiques and the Oris e-Shop. The retail price is CHF 4,800 or EUR 4,600.

Oris Hölstein Edition 2020 Bronze

For more information, please visit oris.ch.

 

Technical specifications – Oris Hölstein Edition 2020

Case: 43mm diameter x 16.93mm height - bronze, polished and brushed - screw-in crown - stainless steel caseback with engraving of Oris teddy bear - unidirectional bronze bezel - domed sapphire crystal - water-resistant to 100m
Dial: gold-coloured - black sub-dials for running seconds at 9 o'clock and 30-min counter at 3 o'clock
Movement: Oris Cal. 771, based on Sellita SW 510 - automatic chronograph - 28,800 vibrations/hour - 30mm - 27 jewels - 48-hour power reserve - hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph
Bracelet: integrated solid bronze bracelet - folding clasp
Availability: limited to 250 pieces
Reference: 771 7744 3182-Set
Price: CHF 4,800
EUR 4,600
Edited by Vit
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  • 2 months later...

Nové zelené Seiko Alpinist:

e5b6ea96-8c2c-4407-8bd2-3822762d68ef.jpg

Neuauflage der Alpinist

Seiko präsentiert eine Neuauflage der „Alpinist“, welche die Prospex Kollektion ergänzt.
Das Ursprungsmodell wurde 1961 eingeführt und speziell für japanische Bergforscher und -steiger entwickelt. Seit 1961 wurde die „Alpinist“ sechs Mal neu aufgelegt und im Laufe der Jahre hat Seiko das Modell angepasst und die Farben, Merkmale sowie das Design geringfügig verändert. Trotz der Anpassungen ist das einzigartige Erscheinungsbild leicht wieder zu erkennen. Insbesondere die „Grüne Alpinist“, die SARB017, ist bei Seiko Liebhabern zum Sammlerstück geworden. Die neuen Modelle sind mit dem Kaliber 6R35 ausgestattet und bieten eine Gangreserve von bis zu 70 Stunden.
https://www.seikowatches.com/de-de/products/prospex/spb121j1

ZDROJ: Watchtime.net

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zdroj: https://www.fratellowatches.com/rolex-submariner-watches-gets-a-new-case-and-movement-upgrade/

Rolex Submariner Watches Get New Cases And A Movement Upgrade

It's all here, all at once. A new size, new colors, a new movement, and even a new bracelet... But what do you think about it?
 
September 01, 2020
3 MIN READ
Rolex Submariner Watches Get New Cases And A Movement Upgrade

We knew it was coming. We didn’t know what it was exactly, but we knew the Sub was going to get a little bit of attention this year. We’d heard some pretty crazy theories thrown around (with the blue/blue Submariner renders doing the rounds on social media last week and whipping everyone into a frenzy), but the reality is in line with what we expected. A new movement. Slight revisions to the lugs. This generation’s “Kermit” (which should clearly be known as the “Green Lantern”). But a couple of updates have caused a stir. Let’s dig into those briefly here…

Reworking the lugs was a good idea. No, it was necessary. The boxy Maxi-case lugs were an absolute shower, as Terry-Thomas would say. I am a little sad to see that it resulted in a case swollen to 41mm (is this measurement the new key to the universe, or something?) and a wider bracelet (was 21mm really necessary), but from pictures alone, I can say with a good degree of confidence that the lug updates are to the model’s benefit.

Rolex-Submariner-41mm-Watch-5-copy-2.jpg

All in all, there are eight new additions to the Rolex Submariner line. We have one no-date version with a black dial and black bezel (€7,350) that will become the new core/entry-level piece. It’s also probably my favorite (as the slimmer lugs really take center stage here in absence of the cyclops). A reasonable price and a slightly more elegant silhouette (at least off the wrist) make this one a nice addition to the collection.

Rolex-Submariner-41mm-Watch

The magnificent seven

So what else is new? Rolex has released seven (yes, seven) new date Submariner models. I think everyone expected to see reference 126610LN, which is made from Oystersteel and fitted with a black dial and bezel for €8,650, and reference 126610LV, which is the “Green Lantern” model I mentioned in the opening paragraph also made from Oystersteel but retailing for a grabbing €9,050, which the brand knows it can command even before waiting lists start to assemble.

Rolex-Submariner-41mm-Watch

Then we move into the flashier territory. There are two Rolesor references: references 126613LN and 126613LB. Both blend 18-karat yellow gold with Oystersteel to great effect. The former reference has a black dial and bezel, the latter has a smurf-toned blue instead. Both retail for €13,450. Given the desirability of Oystersteel Rolexes in general, I often find myself pleasantly surprised at the price of Rolesor models. 4.5k more than the Green Lantern for a bit of gold? That sounds reasonable to me.

Rolex-Submariner-41mm-Watch

Next up are the full yellow gold Submariner references 126618LN and 126618LB. Again, we have a black or blue version and both share a €34,800 retail price. Finally, the most handsome of the bunch is the new, official “Blueberry” model, otherwise known as reference 126619LB. This solid white gold beauty sports a blue bezel and a black dial for the heady cost of €37,400. But it is a charmer, that’s for sure. And that’s coming from someone that never understood the Batman fascination at all…

Rolex-Submariner-41mm-Watch

Under the hood

The no-date Submariner uses the same movement as the new Oyster Perpetual range (read about that model and movement here). that’s the 3230. Here, in the date versions, we have calibre 3235. It has the same specs as the 3230 (4Hz operating frequency, a boosted 70-hour power reserve, 31 jewels, automatic winding, an anti-magnetic Parachrom hairspring, a micro-adjusted balance wheel, and −2 /+2 seconds per day accuracy) but it adds an instantaneous date complication too. That iconic date is, of course, visible through the equally iconic cyclops magnifier.

Rolex-Submariner-41mm-Watch

The big talking Submariner points, though? The case changes and the wider bracelet. What do you, the Fratelli, think about these upgrades? Let us know your thoughts and feelings below, and whether or not you plan on chasing down one of these rare beasts yourself. Learn more about Rolex here.

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Rolex-Submariner-41mm-Watch

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Zdroj: https://monochrome-watches.com/2020-rolex-submariner-date-41mm-126610lv-kermit-126610ln-price/?mc_cid=8fe14b27d9&mc_eid=144e8b2da6

The 2020 Rolex Submariner Date 41mm Collection

A full collection of 7 watches, with new colours and enlarged case.

8 hours ago | By Brice Goulard | 6 min read |7

Rolex Submariner Date 41mm 2020 collection

If you’ve already read our early review of the no-date model, you now should be fully aware that Rolex is this year renewing one of its most important models, the Submariner. However, there’s more to the collection than just the classic steel and black dial/bezel model without a date. Indeed, surprisingly for Rolex, which is more used to gradually introduce its novelties, this year the Crown brings an array of new models – in fact, an entire collection of new Subs. So here it is, the 2020 Rolex Submariner Date 41mm collection, comprising 7 new references… and yes, the “Kermit” is back! 

Before moving into the details about the new Rolex Submariner Date 41mm, we encourage you to have a look at our in-depth series of articles retracing the history of the Submariner – part 1, part 2, part 3 and part 4.

What’s important to know? Altogether, we’re talking about height new Rolex Submariner references – one No-Date, the reference 124060, and seven Submariner Date models, the references 126610LN, 126610LV, 126613LN, 126613LB, 126618LN, 126618LB and 126619LB. Two steel watches, two Rolesor versions, two yellow gold versions and one white gold edition. And all of them come with the same updates as the no-date steel version.

 

A new 41mm case and bracelet

As explained with the No-Date reference 124060, the main visual update for the 2020 Rolex Submariner Date concerns the diameter, which has moved from 40mm in the previous reference 116610 to now 41mm. But, and this is a big “but”, there’s more to the case than just an increased size. Indeed, most proportions have been updated and shapes are different. The most significant difference comes from the withdrawal of the so-called “super case”, as the lugs of the new Submariner Date 41mm are now slimmer and more tapered, as such somehow coming back to the old-school look of the 5-digit references.

More updates can be seen on the case, as the lug width is now 21mm, in order to be consistent with the increased diameter and slimmer lugs, and the crown guards have been redesigned and are now more angled. What doesn’t change is the 300m water-resistance, thanks to the Twinlock crown, the combination of satin-finished and polished areas and the solid screwed caseback, which doesn’t offer a view on the movement.

The bracelet, still a classic 3-link Oyster, is still present but has also been updated, with an additional millimetre in width on the whole length – 21mm now between the lugs. It is still secured by the great Oysterclasp with security lock and the clever Rolex Glidelock extension system. It allows extending the length of the bracelet by 20mm, in increments of 2mm. The bracelet is fully brushed on the steel models, while the more precious Rolesor, yellow and white gold versions have a polished central link – classic for Rolex sports gold models.

7 new references, with new colour combinations (incl. the Kermit)

In the past, the Submariner Date (series 1166xx) was available in 7 references – two in steel (black and green), two in Yellow Rolesor (black and blue), two in 18k yellow gold (black and blue) and one in 18k white gold (in blue). And indeed, the new 2020 Rolex Submariner Date 41mm collection series 1266xx will comprise seven references, with all the existing models being replaced.

  • 126610LN – the classic steel on steel, black bezel and black dial version. An all-time classic that will always work. It replaces the ref. 116610LN.
  • 126610LV – the successor of the “Hulk” model with its green colour scheme (dial and bezel). However, the new 126610LV comes with an important update. While it retains its steel case and steel bracelet, and while the green Cerachrom bezel is still part of the package, the dial is now black lacquered and not sunray green anymore. So indeed, we can say that this new version is the direct successor of the 50th-anniversary model, the reference 16610LV, the so-called “Kermit”.

rolex-submariner-date-41mm-126610LV-Kerm

  • 126613LB – another classic in the Submariner Date collection, the blue Rolesor model. This version combines an Oystersteel case with 18k yellow gold elements, such as the crown and the bezel. The bracelet has 18k yellow gold central links, polished. The Cerachrom bezel is blue with a PVD yellow gold scale and the dial retains its deep blue colour with sunray-brushed pattern and 18k yellow gold indexes and hands. As such, the new Rolex Submariner Date 41mm 126613LB remains close to the previous ref. 116613LB.
  • 126613LN – a classic two-tone version, with yellow gold and steel combination, here with a black dial and bezel. Replaces the previous 116613LN.
  • 126618LN – the classic black on black yellow gold models, with a matching bracelet. Replaces the previous 116618LN.
  • 126618LB – same as above, in solid yellow gold, yet with a blue bezel and a blue Cerachrom bezel.
  • 126619LB – the only solid precious metal version in the Rolex Submariner Date 41mm collection so far, with 18k white gold case and bracelet. As such, it replaces the older ref. 116619LB. However, this new reference 126619LB shows one major update, as the dial isn’t blue sunray anymore but black lacquered, contrasting with the bezel – just like the 126610LV.

Regarding the bezel, colours apart, there are no major updates, as the Rolex Submariner Date 41mm retains all the elements of the previous versions. The bezel is still made of polished ceramic (so-called Cerachrom), with platinum or gold PVD recessed tracks and numerals. The bezel is still unidirectional with 120 clicks.

As for the dials, the major update is that Rolex now plays on contrasting colours, while is has always used matching dial and bezel combinations on the Submariner 1166xx series (black on black, green on green or blue on blue). A bit like the Tudor Black Bay 41 Blue or Burgundy, the Rolex Submariner Date 41mm has black dials with coloured bezels – just like we predicted it in our Baselworld 2020 mockups – and this for the new Kermit 126610LV and the replacement for the Smurf, the 126619LB.

The dial of the new Submariner Date remains entirely in line with the previous generations, with the iconic combination of triangular, rectangular and circular hour markers, as well as the lollipop and Mercedes hands – all executed in white or yellow gold and filled with Chromalight. One small update, the minute hand is now longer (perfectly matching the minute track) and the hour hand is slightly wider. Thus, the “Maxi Dial” concept is still present.

The latest generation calibre 3235

The major evolution to be found on the 2020 Rolex Submariner Date 41mm is mechanical, as it now features the latest generation of Rolex movement, the Calibre 3235, an automatic chronometer with hours, minutes, seconds and date at 3 o’clock (with the usual cyclops). This movement is shared with multiple other models, such as the Datejust 41 and Datejust 36, the Yacht-Master 42 or the Sea-Dweller 43. It is the new classic time-and-date engine that powers most watches in Rolex’s portfolio.

Rolex Datejust 41 - Calibre 3235 - Baselworld 2016 - Review

Equipped with the modern Chronergy escapement, the Calibre 3235 has a comfortable power reserve of 70 hours, beats at 4Hz and comes with antimagnetic properties – thanks to the nickel-phosphorus escapement and blue Parachrom hairspring. It is, of course, a Superlative Chronometer, meaning that is chronometer-certified by the COSC and also receives an internal certification after casing. The precision is of the order of -2 /+2 seconds per day.

Prices

The 2020 Rolex Submariner Date 41mm will soon be available at retailers but expect it to be rather difficult to get (especially the new Kermit) knowing the high demand already existing on the previous Subs. The models will be priced from EUR 8,650 (steel, black).

More details to be found at rolex.com.

 

Technical specifications – Rolex Submariner Date 41mm

Case: 41mm diameter - Oystersteel or Yellow Gold Rolesor (steel and 18k yellow gold) or 18k white gold case - satin-finished with polished edges - Oystersteel or Yellow Gold or White Gold bezel, unidirectional - 60-minute polished Cerachrom insert in black, green or blue, recessed graduation and numerals coated with platinum or gold via PVD - sapphire crystal (no A/R coating) with cyclops over the date - Twinlock screw-down crown - solid caseback, screwed and finely fluted - 300m water-resistant
Dial: lacquered dial in black or blue (the latter with sunray pattern) - hour markers and hands in 18k white or yellow gold, filled with blue glow Chromalight - date at 3 o'clock
Movement: Calibre 3235, in-house - Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing) - automatic with bidirectional winding - 31 jewels - 28,800 vibrations/hours - Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring - balance wheel with variable inertia, regulating via four gold Microstella nuts - Paraflex shock absorbers - Chronergy escapement - Paramagnetic pallet fork and escape wheel - 70h power reserve - −2 /+2 sec/day accuracy - hours, minutes, seconds and date (instantaneous date and stop-seconds included)
Bracelet: 21mm lug width - Oystersteel, or Rolesor (steel and 18k yellow gold) or 18k white gold bracelet - satin-finished with polished edges - Oysterlock folding safety clasp - Rolex Glidelock extension system (20mm extension in increments of approx. 2mm)
References: 126610LN - steel on steel, black bezel, black dial
126610LV - steel on steel, green bezel, black dial
126613LN - yellow Rolesor, black bezel, black dial
126613LB - yellow Rolesor, blue bezel, blue dial
126618LN - yellow gold, black bezel, black dial
126618LB - yellow gold, blue bezel, blue dial
126619LB - white gold on white gold, blue bezel, black dial
Price: 126610LN - EUR 8,650
126610LV - EUR 9,050
126613LN - EUR 13,450
126613LB - EUR 13,450
126618LN - EUR 34,800
126618LB - EUR 34,800
126619LB - EUR 37,400
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  • 2 months later...

Toto se mi teda nelíbí, mně to přijde jako IWC od nějajakého čínského výrobce. Navíc ta velká mezera mezi orámovním a číslicemi big date tu datumovku opticky zmenšuje.

 

ZDROJ: https://monochrome-watches.com/iwc-big-pilots-watch-big-date-bucherer-blue-iw5105-introducing-price/?mc_cid=1f3811c43f&mc_eid=144e8b2da6

 

Introducing

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Bucherer BLUE

Two “Big” firsts for a partnership edition of the collectable pilot’s watch.

 

22 hours ago | By Nina Scally | 2 min read |

 
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Bucherer BLUE IW5105

A little over two years ago, MONOCHROME covered the Portugieser Chronograph Classic Bucherer BLUE – a red gold model with a blue dial, but other than that, an identical base design of IWC Schaffhausen’s Ref. 3904 made in 2013. Fast-forward to last year and we reviewed the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Bucherer BLUE, another collaborative effort between the Swiss watchmaker and the world’s largest watch retailer. To mark its fourth anniversary with the aviation watch specialist, Bucherer launches a timepiece that draws from IWC’s Big Pilot’s Watch collection for the very first time. Of course, it also features Bucherer’s signature blue colour on its dial. The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Bucherer BLUE, limited to just 100 pieces worldwide, is also the first partnership edition to feature a big date complication on its dial.

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Bucherer BLUE IW5105

This new IWC Big Pilot’s Watch should certainly appeal to collectors of Bucherer’s BLUE lifestyle collection (which has celebrated partnering with some of the world’s most prestigious watch brands since 2016), but also fans of IWC’s classically styled pilot’s watches. The first IWC Big Pilot’s watch was a direct descendant of the 1940 B-Uhr model powered by an original pocket watch movement, thus where its understandably large case derived from. The Big Pilot’s Watch was specifically designed to survive the difficult conditions of a jet fighter’s cockpit and needed to withstand temperature and pressure alterations as well as magnetic fields. The watch met these demands with features like a soft-iron inner cage and a front glass secured against displacement by a drop in air pressure – two features still present in the new IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Bucherer BLUE.

 

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Bucherer BLUE IW5105

Based on the design of the “150 Years” and “Mission Accomplished” editions of the IWC Big Pilot’s Big Date models, the new Bucherer BLUE watch features a 46.2mm steel case and is powered by the hand-wound 59235 calibre, offering an 8-day power reserve. This power reserve can be kept track of via a special sub-dial located on the back of the watch. The round sapphire glass signature window combines the opportunity to catch a glimpse of the movement with an 8-day power reserve scale located off-centre on a caseback engraved with the “Bucherer BLUE” lettering. 

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Bucherer BLUE IW5105

The watch’s black dial commemorates Bucherer’s signature blue colour in its minutes scale, its small seconds sub-counter at 6 o’clock, the IWC lettering at 3 o’clock, a big date complication at 12 o’clock, a set of Arabic numerals and the central hour and minute hands. The latter two have also been coated with Super-LumiNova to assist with timekeeping in the dark. 

Availability & Price

Available exclusively at Bucherer stores and online boutique, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Bucherer BLUE is priced at CHF 15,900 and comes fitted on a black calfskin leather strap with folding clasp. It is limited to 100 pieces. 

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Bucherer BLUE IW5105

More details at bucherer.com.

Technical specifications – IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Bucherer BLUE IW5105

Case: 46.2mm diameter x 15.2mm height - stainless steel case, brushed and polished - anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal glass front secured against displacement by drops in air pressure - Bucherer BLUE-engraved caseback with power reserve display - screw-down crown - 60m water-resistant
Dial: matte black - blue luminous hour indexes and hands - small seconds sub-counter at 6 o’clock – big date at 12 o’clock - additional blue accents
Movement: calibre 59235, in-house - hand-wound - soft-iron inner cage - 260 component, 30 jewels - 8-day power reserve - 28,800 vibrations/hour - hours, minutes, small seconds, big date
Strap: black calfskin strap (22mm) with steel folding clasp
Availability: 100 pieces, only available from Bucherer stores and online boutique
Price: CHF 15,900
Edited by Vit
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  • 3 weeks later...

Tyto Certiny se povedly:

 

Certina DS Chronograph Automatic — Hands On Watch Review

A beautiful reedition that shows that Certina can do more than sports watches
December 14, 2020
3 MIN READ
Certina DS Chronograph Automatic — Hands On Watch Review
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2020 is finally coming to an end. However, I have one more watch to talk about before. In the past, when I spoke about Certina, it was either about a sport or a vintage watch. Rarely do we see a classy, vintage-inspired timepiece from the brand. The DS Chronograph Automatic is filling this void, though.

If you need affordable Swiss Made sports to watch, prominently divers, Certina is a brand you definitely should check out. But they have a rich history that includes classy pieces, chronographs, and other models as well. And don’t even make me start talking about Grana.

Certina_DS-Chronograph-Automatic-_Couple

Certina watches of the past

There are brands we talk a lot about, Certina included, but we mainly focus on their current collection. Still, we need to keep in mind that all of these companies have a past often filled with exceptional timepieces. Tissot is another such name, where I feel we found the right balance to highlight new models and watches from a bygone era. I want to bring some of these fabulous vintage watches from Certina to Fratello in 2021.

For a start, here is something that takes inspiration from a vintage piece but comes in a completely new execution, the DS Chronograph Automatic. Now, let’s address the elephant in the room, the watch’s name. Certina could’ve come up with a more fitting name. I mean, I get it; you need to add the piece to an already established model line. But DS Chronograph Automatic? Thankfully, this is my biggest issue with the piece. 

DS Chronograph Automatic

I must admit that while I’m an avid reader of Vintage Certinas, I saw the vintage model this DS Chronograph Automatic takes the inspiration from when I received photos from Certina. I’m trying to say that this model, albeit beautiful, is not a super known vintage Certina chronograph. It is a great and clean watch with apparent features they share with other vintage models from Excelsior Park, for instance. The perfect model for Certina to reissue. If we compare it to the new DS Chronograph Automatic, we see how meticulous they were with the details. Other than the “Automatic,” which you can see on the latest version, the look is almost identical. This is not a comparison article, though, so I will focus on the DS Chronographs Automatic from now on.

DS-CHRONOGRAPH-AUTOMATIC-3.jpg 

The new model had to be larger, so we have a 42mm case that is 14mm thick and 50.5mm from lug tip to lug tip. Keep in mind that the Speedmaster is roughly the same size. Yet, this watch has no bezel, and the dial is not black, so comparing them visually would make no sense. Does it feel 42? No, I would say it does not feel too large and comfortable to wear, thanks to the relatively thin case.

Thin, compared to the automatic movement inside it. Simple lines characterized the case with polished surfaces on the top and back, with brushed sides. We can see a large crown, but the flat chronograph pushers don’t stick out as much. If we flip the watch over, we find a center motif to take inspiration from the dial’s torch indexes. While, around the case back, you can find the usual info, like ref number, water resistance (100m), or case material (steel).

DS Chronograph

Torch

In our latest podcast, Mike and I talked precisely about this type of dial. You can often see these so-called torch indexes on Excelsior Park or Gallet chronographs, probably because they all used the same dial manufacturer. Certina kept the same vision for the DS Chronograph Automatic and released it with a white dial, applied torch indexes and numerals (at 12 and 6). Other than the colors and the shapes, the layout is also identical, with the two sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock.

However, the dial’s fun part is the Tachy- and Telemeter scales running around the watch’s outer ring. While the Tachymeter allows you to measure speed, Telemeter scales would tell you the distance. This is a feature mostly military watches possessed back then to calculate the distance between the wearer and the enemy’s artillery.

DS Chronograph

Something blue, something old

The last bit we still need to mention is those beautiful blue hands—a small splash of color on that otherwise light dial. They are a tiny bit too blue to be entirely fair, but that’s just my personal preference. Sapphire crystal covers the dial with anti-reflective treatment on one side. And now that we have talked about what’s outside, why don’t we look into the case and see what’s beating inside the DS Chronograph Automatic?

The caliber Certina uses is their A05.H31 movement, which is an ETA 7753. We have 27 jewels here and about 60 hours of power reserve. Another useful feature of the movement is its silicon balance spring which reduces the chance of the watch getting magnetized and allows a stable time keeping. Although the 7753 has a date function, Certina decided not to add that to the reedition, and I could not be happier about it. Sometimes less is more, and this is the case with the DS Chronograph Automatic.

DS Chronograph

Conclusion

I hate to mention it, but the only con against the long list of pros is the strap. Firstly, it is 21mm, such an odd and unpractical size these days. However, due to the case shape, I see why Certina went with it, and that’s ok. What is not ok, however, is the strap itself. It just feels cheap and uncomfortable. Not to mention that it’s not up to the standard of the watch. Certina can add quality leather straps to their watches just like they did with the DS PH200M, for instance.

And here comes the issue with the 21mm width; I have 18mm, 20mm, even 22mm leather straps to throw on the watch, but I barely have one in 21mm. Still, for €1,842, this DS Chronograph Automatic is a lot of watch for the money. A beautiful, classy timepiece with a useful complication for a great price.

If you’d like to check out Certina’s site, follow this link.

DS Chronograph
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DS Chronograph

Watch specifications

Brand
Model
DS CHRONOGRAPH AUTOMATIC
Reference
C038.462.16.037.00
Dial
Silver
Case Material
316L stainless steel
Case Dimensions
Diameter: 42.00mm Height: 13.90mm
Crystal
Antireflection treatment on one side Sapphire crystal
Movement
A05.H31 with silicon balance spring
Water Resistance
100m
Strap
Black leather with quick-release system
Functions
Chronograph
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Zajímavé srovnání: Rolex proti Audemars Piguet

ZDROJ: https://www.watchtime.net/uhren/rolex-gegen-audemars-piguet-wer-hat-die-nase-vorn/?utm_source=watchtime_weekly_nl&utm_campaign=Rolex-vs-Audemars-der-ultimative-Vergleich-251220&utm_medium=email

Rolex gegen Audemars Piguet: Wer hat die Nase vorn?

Oyster oder Royal Oak?

Jens Koch
von Jens Koch
am 22. Dezember 2020
 

Die Rolex-Oyster-Stahlmodelle sind schwer zu bekommen und werden deutlich über Neupreis gehandelt. Für etwas mehr Geld erhält man schon Alternativen aus der Royal-Oak-Linie von Audemars Piguet. Lohnt sich der Aufstieg?

Rolex gegen Audemars Piguet: Der Chronographen-Vergleich

Rolex: Daytona mit weißem Zifferblatt Die Rolex Daytona ist mit schwarzem oder weißem Zifferblatt erhältlich

Die Rolex Daytona in Stahl macht sich schon länger rar. Aber der Strudel von Habenwollen und Nichtbekommenkönnen dreht sich in letzter Zeit noch schneller: Wartelisten für das gesuchteste Rolex-Modell werden bei Konzessionären kaum noch geführt, und beim Reseller zahlt man fast das Doppelte des Neupreises von aktuell 11.950 Euro. Da stellt sich schon die Frage, ob man statt des Rolex-Chronographen für 21.400 Euro nicht noch etwas drauflegt und sich für 27.400 Euro den Royal Oak Chronograph Automatik gönnt. Der ist zwar auch nicht überall erhältlich, aber der Aufschlag hält sich mit etwa zehn Prozent im Rahmen. Beide Uhren verfügen über Gehäuse und Bänder aus Stahl.

 

Die Royal Oak gibt es in den zwei Größen 38 und 41 Millimeter; die Daytona liegt mit 40 Millimetern dazwischen. In der Höhe unterbietet die Audemars Piguet mit elf Millimetern die ebenfalls flache Rolex um 1,5 Millimeter. Die Wasserdichtheit beträgt bei der Royal Oak allerdings nur 50 Meter. Bei Rolex darf man bis 200 Meter tauchen, und die kratzfeste Keramiklünette macht die Daytona ebenfalls zur robusteren Uhr. Auch die verschraubten Drücker sorgen bei der Daytona für mehr Sicherheit. Bei der Royal Oak ist nur die Krone verschraubbar, dafür kann ihr Chronograph aber auch jederzeit sofort benutzt werden. Mit dem integrierten, sich allmählich verjüngenden Band und dem Wechsel von polierten Fasen und Schrauben sowie satinierten Flächen wirkt die Audemars Piguet eleganter als die Rolex, die mit der Tachymeterskala sportliche Akzente setzt. Das geht beim Zifferblatt mit dem für die Royal Oak typischen „Grande Tapisserie“-Motiv weiter. Auch das Spiel mit den geometrischen Formen Achteck und Kreis macht die sie zu einem feinen Charakterkopf.

 

Audermars Piguet: Royal Oak Chronographen Den Royal Oak Chronographen gibt es in 38 Millimetern auch mit blauen Totalisatoren

Bei Rolex sorgen die Totalisatorringe und die Schiffchenindexe für Eigenständigkeit. Ansonsten mimt sie eher den Prototyp eines Sportchronographen. Beide besitzen bedauerlicherweise keinen Glasboden. Und so bleibt die Mechanik versteckt. Die Rolex treibt das Manufakturkaliber 4130 mit Automatikaufzug an. Es wurde erst im Jahr 2000 eingeführt und weist daher moderne Merkmale auf: Mit 28.800 Unruh-Halbschwingungen pro Stunde bringt das Werk beste Voraussetzungen für einen präzisen Gang mit. Die vertikale Kupplung verhindert ein Anlaufspringen des Sekundenzeigers. Die elegante Schaltradsteuerung sorgt für leichtgängige Drücker, und vor allem kommt das Werk auf eine komfortable Gangreserve von 72 Stunden. Daneben sorgen die Unruhbrücke und die eigene blaue Parachrom-Spirale für Nehmerqualitäten gegenüber Schlägen und Magnetfeldern. Mit Regulierschrauben an der Unruh, Chronometerzertifikat und eigenen, noch strengeren Vorgaben soll jede Uhr maximal ±2 Sekunden pro Tag abweichen. Da kann die Royal Oak nicht mithalten: Das Kaliber 2385 basiert auf dem Frédéric-Piguet-Werk 1185 von 1987, wie es auch Blancpain einsetzt. Mit 21.600 Halbschwingungen pro Stunde und lediglich 40 Stunden Gangreserve kann es nur mit seiner flachen Konstruktion punkten. Ein Schaltrad ist aber ebenso an Bord wie eine vertikale Kupplung, die hier sogar das erste Mal eingesetzt wurde. Die Triovis-Feinregulierung lässt zudem die Spirale nicht frei atmen. Immerhin gibt es im Gegensatz zur Daytona ein Datum. Lohnt sich der Aufstieg also? Bei Audemars Piguet zahlt man den Mehrpreis vor allem für die aufwendige Verarbeitung von Gehäuse, Band und Zifferblatt. Die robustere und genauere Uhr ist die Rolex. Wer allerdings generell nicht mehr als den Listenpreis zahlen möchte, findet im Royal Oak Chronographen eine echte Alternative.

Rolex gegen Audemars Piguet: Der Taucheruhren-Vergleich

Während Rolex als eine ausgewiesene Taucheruhrenmarke gilt, fällt bei Audemars Piguet die Auswahl bei diesem Uhrentyp überschaubar aus: Immerhin bekommt man das einzige Tauchmodell, die Royal Oak Offshore Diver, in unterschiedlichen Farben und für den Listenpreis von 20.700 Euro.

Audermars Piguet: Royal Oak Offshore Diver mit Kautschukband Die Royal Oak Offshore Diver wirkt mit Kautschukband und breiteren Zeigern markanter als ihre Brüder

Bei Rolex gibt es die drei Modelle Submariner, Sea-Dweller und Deepsea – hier von der günstigsten zur teuersten und druckfestesten sortiert. Schon die Submariner schafft 300 Meter und damit so viel wie die Diver. Mit Datum kostet die 2020 überarbeitete Rolex Date 8.300 Euro, gehandelt wird sie allerdings um 18.000. Die Audemars Piguet ist über 10.000 Euro teuer und kostet damit doppelt so viel. Da muss sie schon einiges mehr bieten. Der Glasboden und das schöne Manufakturkaliber 3120 machen schon mal was her. Das Werk verfügt über 21.600 Halbschwingungen und kommt auf 60 Stunden Gangreserve. Zudem erhöht eine Unruhbrücke die Robustheit, und die Feinregulierung über Unruhgewichte sorgt für gute Regulierbarkeit und eine frei atmende Unruhfeder. Auch der massive, aus 22-karätigem Gold gefertigte Rotor mit Reliefgravur und die anderen Zierschliffe beeindrucken. Das Werk baut allerdings nicht sehr flach, was die Diver in der sportlicheren Offshore-Linie auf 14,1 Millimeter Gehäusehöhe bringt.

Rolex: Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date, Referenz 126610LN Rolex: Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date, Referenz 126610LN

Mit 12 Millimetern Höhe und einem ein Millimeter geringeren Durchmesser von 41 Millimetern zeigt hier die Submariner die elegantere Silhouette. Vom Werk sieht man aber wieder nichts: Die kleine Taucheruhr hat nun das neue Manufakturkaliber 3235 bekommen. Das bedeutet: lange 70 Stunden Gangreserve. Die Unruhbrücke, eigene Spiralfeder und Regulierung über Schrauben am Unruhreif hatte auch schon der Vorgänger. Und auch bei der Chronometerprüfung und den Reguliervorgaben, die genauso streng wie bei der Daytona ausfallen, spart Rolex nicht. Die Submariner besitzt in der Schließe ein extrem praktisches feinstufiges Verlängerungssystem. Bei der Diver kann man zwar über die Dornschließe des Kautschukbands die Weite regulieren, dafür muss man aber auf das schöne Royal-Oak-Metallband verzichten. Ein anderes charakteristisches Merkmal erhält sich die Diver mit einem Trick: Statt die achteckige satinierte Lünette mit den sechseckigen polierten Schrauben durch eine Drehlünette ersetzen zu müssen, setzt Audemars Piguet auf eine über eine zweite Krone verstellbare Innenskala zur Messung der Tauchzeit. Rolex begeistert dafür durch die satte Rastung der Tauchlünette, die kaum eine andere Marke so hinbekommt.

Audermars Piguet: Royal Oak mit blauem Zifferblatt Seit 2019 wird die Royal Oak vom neuen Kaliber 4302 mit 70 Stunden Gangreserve angetrieben

Bei den Taucheruhren kann Audemars Piguet mit dem schönen Werk überholen, der Vorteil der feinen und detailreichen Gehäuseverarbeitung bleibt. Die Rolex ist aber die praktischere Uhr und so viel günstiger, dass das Design den Ausschlag geben muss.

Rolex gegen Audemars Piguet: Der Dreizeigeruhren-Vergleich

Audemars Piguet hat 2019 seine Ikone Royal Oak in der Basisversion mit 41 Millimetern überarbeitet. Dabei gab es neben einer schmaleren Lünette und dem Entfall des Automatic-Schriftzugs auf dem Zifferblatt auch ein neu entwickeltes Manufakturwerk. Das Kaliber 4302 ersetzt das 3120.

Audemars Piguet: Kaliber 4302 mit 70 Stunden Gangreserve Audemars Piguet: Kaliber 4302 mit 70 Stunden Gangreserve

Mit 32 Millimetern fällt es deutlich größer aus und mit 4,8 Millimetern etwas höher. So schafft es Raum für eine größere Aufzugsfeder und kommt trotz moderner 28800 Halbschwingungen pro Stunde auf beruhigende 70 Stunden Gangreserve. Aber auch Rolex setzt in seinem Klassiker Datejust mit ebenfalls 41 Millimetern Durchmesser auf ein neues Manufakturwerk.

Rolex: Kaliber 3235 In der Datejust tickt schon das neue, noch robustere Kaliber 3235 mit 70 Stunden Gangreserve

Das Kaliber 3235 arbeitet wie das Audemars-Piguet-Werk mit 28.800 Halbschwingungen und kommt nun auch auf 70 Stunden Gangreserve. Seinem Vorgänger 3135 hat das neue Werk zusätzlich eine effizientere Stoßsicherung und einen verbesserten Aufzug voraus. Die Datejust-Preisliste startet bei 7.000 Euro, gehandelt wird die Uhr für etwa 8.000 Euro. Die Royal Oak kostet mit 21.200 Euro Listenpreis schon mehr als das Doppelte, ist aber kaum in den Boutiquen zu bekommen und wird für rund 27.000 Euro gehandelt. Damit ist sie mehr als dreimal so teuer wie die Datejust.

Rolex: Datejust 41 mit Weißgoldlünette und Oyster-Band Die Datejust 41, hier mit Weißgoldlünette und Oyster-Band, gibt es in zahlreichen Varianten

Selbst mit Jubilé-Band und geriffelter Weißgoldlünette kommt die Rolex nur auf einen Handelspreis von 10.000 Euro. Im Wettkampf der Dreizeigeruhren stellt zur Abwechslung mal Audemars Piguet die gehyptere Uhr und größere Designikone. Auch das Werk kann höchste Ansprüche erfüllen, sieht schöner aus und lässt sich durch einen Glasboden betrachten. Beim Preis hilft der Datejust die bessere Verfügbarkeit. Selbst mit mehr Charakter und dem detailreichen Gehäuse wird es in dieser Paarung wegen des happigen Preises also schwer für die Royal Oak.

Wohl kaum eine Marke baut so gut gemachte industrialisierte Manufakturuhren wie Rolex: robust, präzise und in optimaler Qualität. Und dennoch merkt man, dass Audemars Piguet mit dem Finish der satinierten Flächen, beim detailverliebten Gehäuse und Band und bei den eigenen Werken auf einem höheren Niveau spielt. Zudem macht der Hype um die Stahlmodelle Rolex teuer. Lohnt sich der Aufstieg also? Bei den Chronographen wegen des überschaubaren Preisunterschieds auf jeden Fall. Bei Taucheruhren und Dreizeigermodellen sollte man nach dem Anprobieren selbst entscheiden, ob einem der hohe Mehrpreis den Schritt von Oyster zu Royal Oak wert ist. jk

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ZDROJ: https://monochrome-watches.com/comparative-review-speedmaster-moonwatch-professional-vs-60th-anniversary/?mc_cid=9f319c6605&mc_eid=144e8b2da6

Face-to-Face

The Battle of Speedmasters – Moonwatch Professional vs. 60th Anniversary

Two of the greatest discontinued models.

 

Today we look at what certainly are two of the best Speedmaster models. On one side is a true classic, the previous generation Moonwatch Professional – for all the details on the new one, check this in-depth article. On the other side is a retro-looking watch, the 60th-anniversary edition released as part of a historically-inspired trilogy. You might ask why looking at two discontinued models? First, simply because we had these two watches with us at the office and that gave us the opportunity of a comparison. Second, because all watch enthusiasts don’t necessarily seek and buy new timepieces. Finally, some watch enthusiasts don’t buy the watch right at the time of launch and have to wait before pulling the trigger. We’re going face-to-face with two almost identical but, in fact, very different watches. 

Comparative-Review-Omega-Speedmaster-Moo

Quick background

The Omega Speedmaster is a watch that needs no introduction anymore, being one of the most iconic models ever produced by the industry and a cult watch for Omega. Born in 1957, as part of a trilogy of professionally-oriented watches (the Speedmaster CK2915, the Railmaster CK2914 and the Seamaster 300 CK2913), way before its space background, the Speedmaster was first the brand’s vision of a watch for racing drivers, equipped with a tachymeter scale to measure average speeds.

 
Omega-Broad-Arrow-1957-Trilogy-CK2913-CK The Omega “Broad Arrow” 1957 Trilogy, with the Seamaster 300 CK2913, the Railmaster CK2914 and the Speedmaster CK2915 – image Phillips Watches

The main specificity of the Speedmaster, besides being a tri-counter and two-pusher chronograph, was the location of its tachymetre scale. Instead of appearing on the dial, the scale was relocated for the first time to the exterior of the watch, on a bezel surrounding the crystal in order to enhance legibility. Many updates have been made to the watch in its earliest days, changing hands, dials, case shape, bracelets and crowns more often than the actual reference of the watch changed. The most important step in the life of the Speedmaster, an event that forged its legend, has to do with Space exploration and NASA. The first Speedmaster worn in space was on astronaut Walter Schirra’s wrist during the Sigma 7 mission of the Mercury programme in 1962. Back then, the watches were still privately-owned by astronauts. In 1965, NASA decided to procure watches to its crew members, and after a comprehensive testing procedure under the direction of James Ragan, the Speedmaster was declared “flight-qualified by NASA for all manned space missions.”

Omega-Speedmaster-Moonwatch-Buzz-Aldrin-

As the certified watch for astronauts of Gemini and Apollo missions, the Speedmaster made its first official flight into space onboard the Gemini III mission and on the wrists of Virgil (Gus) Grissom and John Young. The most important step in this model’s life occurred on 21 July 1969, as Neil Armstrong entered the annals of history as the first American astronaut to set foot on the Moon. Yet, he wasn’t wearing his watch but Buzz Aldrin was, with his Speedmaster strapped over his bulky spacesuit with Velcro.

Omega-Speedmaster-Moonwatch-Buzz-Aldrin-

Following this epic walk on the Moon, the Speedmaster became known as the Moonwatch and, for the following 50 years will remain continuously produced, yet practically unchanged – to the exception of mechanical updates and more modern materials, the look, shape and overall design of the Speedmaster has been forged in 1964.

The CK2915, the inspiration behind the 60th-anniversary edition

When Omega released its 1957 Trilogy re-edition in 2017, commemorating the 60th anniversary of the brand’s first professionally-oriented collection, the idea was clear: creating models visually as faithful as possible, by scanning historic watches from the Omega Museum and recreating them with modern technical and mechanical solutions, yet with sheer respect for their aesthetics.

Omega-Speedmaster-CK-2915-1.jpg

As such, the Speedmaster 60th Anniversary watch is directly modelled after the first-ever Speedy, the reference CK2915-1 from 1957. This watch, the first draft of a continuously-evolving story, already showed many of the iconic features the Speedmaster is known for, however, it also bears multiple unique features. Housed in the early symmetrical case, it is immediately recognizable thanks to its brushed stainless steel bezel and its broad-arrow hands – two features that will be discontinued on the following model, the CK2998. It is powered by the legendary Calibre 321, has a flat dial with applied Ω logo – the step dial only appeared later, on the CK2998 – and it had luminescence thanks to radium-based material.

Omega-Speedmaster-CK-2915-2.jpg

Being the first of a long lineage and having low production numbers, the Speedmaster CK2915’s popularity has grown to become a collector’s dream. it isn’t uncommon to see some examples sold for over EUR 100,000 at auctions. Clearly, not a watch many enthusiasts can afford. Thus, if you want the look and feel of the 1st generation Speedmaster, the 60th-anniversary model is the best option you can get.

The Professional Moonwatch’s background

The standard Moonwatch, whether the previous generation (ref. 3750.50) or the model that has been presented earlier this year, are both direct descendants of the first “professional” Speedmaster. Until late 1963, Speedmaster watches were so-called straight lugs (symmetrical case) with no Professional mention. The 42mm asymmetrical case, the one that we today see as the classic shape, has been introduced in 1964 with the reference ST 105.012 together with the Professional mention. Of course, as you’d expect, the name “Moonwatch” only appeared in 1969, after the Apollo 11 mission and the Moon Landing.

Omega-Speemaster-ST-105.012.jpg An example of the watch that defined the Speedmaster for the 57 years to come, the reference ST 105.012 and its professional case

This professional case, with its lyre-type twisted lugs and protection for the crown and pushers, is almost unchanged since 1964 and has only been altered by minor updates. Same goes for the hands and dial, once again almost identical today expect minor changes such as the flat dial replacing the step dial or the printed logo in place of an applied one. Still, the display and the overall style is in 2021 almost the same as what used to be found in the late 1960s. At first equipped with the Calibre 321, the watch will receive a new movement in 1968, the cam-operated calibre 861, later replaced by the Calibre 1861 (a minor evolution) with the reference 3570.50. Of course, things have drastically changed this year with the new Master Chronometer calibre 3861, however, the design retains most of the classic elements of early Professional Speedmasters.

Face-to-Face – Moonwatch Professional vs. 60th Anniversary

As said, the idea here is to compare two of the greatest modern, yet discontinued Speedmaster watches. Sure, a non-watch enthusiast will probably think these are two very close models, with only minor visual differences. However, once you know a bit your Speedmaster history, you surely understand that we’re here talking about two very different – should I say opposite – models. One is a deliberately vintage-inspired model, made to look like an old watch, with fauxtina and faded colours. The other is a contemporary watch, which doesn’t want to look vintage, even though the Speedmaster itself, being almost untouched for close to 60 years, has a certain retro charm. In short, it is a classic. So yes, it is quite interesting to see them one next to another.

Comparative-Review-Omega-Speedmaster-Moo

And for that, we’re going to look at all the elements… case, bezel, dial, movement. And apart from an identical engine, nothing is actually is the same in these watches… As you’ll see below.

Case

Starting with the case of both watches, you’ll notice a major difference. Basically, it is all about asymmetrical versus symmetrical, professional versus pre-professional, lyre lugs versus straight lugs. Shape, proportions, finishing are all distinct and result in watches that look and wear quite different. Actually, more than you’d expect at first.

Omega-Speedmaster-Moonwatch-Professional

Omega-Speedmaster-60th-anniversary-Editi

On one side we have the classic Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, with its asymmetrical case. Equipped with the twisted lugs – also named “lyre” – and solid shoulders that are meant to protect the crown and pushers, this shape is the one most often associated with the Speedmaster. It was launched in 1964, and became quickly accepted by NASA due to the increased protection offered on two crucial elements of the watch. It is a shape that almost didn’t change in 57 years of existence, a shape that is associated with space exploration, a shape that is recognizable among hundreds of watches. The asymmetrical case of the Moonwatch Professional is 42mm in diameter and 14.3mm in height (a dimension that has been slightly reduced on the 2021 edition). At first, it seems to be a rather large watch, however, the case is fairly compact and well designed. Lug to lug is 48mm and most of the height is located on the caseback and crystal, with a relatively thin caseband.

Comparative-Review-Omega-Speedmaster-Moo

The other model, the Speedmaster 60th anniversary, is a different animal. Its shape, named straight lugs or symmetrical, has been directly modelled after a vintage example, respecting every single aspect of the older watch. As such, it has no protection for its crown and pushers, the lugs and caseband are flat and the case feels exactly like the vintage model. Looking at it now, in 2021, gives an interesting view on this watch… It still feels modern and sharp, not small and not delicate, so imagine how innovative this watch was when introduced in 1957. The proportions are very different from the Moonwatch, and differently distributed. The diameter is fairly compact, at 38.6mm and the height is of 13.9mm. Still, the lug to lug dimension is also 48mm here, meaning that the feeling on the wrist is that of a more modern piece. Below a chart with the actual dimensions, as measured by us:

Speedmaster-Moonwatch-vs-60th-anniversar

Both Speedmaster models presented here are equipped with a synthetic crystal, the so-called Hesalite. While its use from the 1950s until the 1980s was guided by available materials, it is still in production today for a simple reason: it is preferred by NASA, as on the contrary of sapphire, it won’t shatter in multiple pieces if a shock occurs – something of importance with zero gravity. Both have the small Ω logo in the centre. The use of Hesalite makes sense on both watches, historically-speaking. In addition to that, it is also known to bring more warmth and pleasant distortions, participating in the charm of the Speedmaster. However, they are not the best when it comes to reflections and resistance to scratches.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looking closely at the cases, you’ll notice that these are drastically different. The Speedmaster 60th anniversary is sharper, more elongated and more distinctive. The lugs are polished on top and have a pronounced bevel, just like the original model. They also have a more pronounced curvature and the strap sits lower. The sides are brushed and the caseback retains the historic double-step profile. Just like the CK2915, it also features only the Seahorse logo. Interestingly, this vintage re-edition has a slightly better water-resistance, at 60 meters. The crown, being unprotected, is extremely easy to actuate and winding is done with great comfort.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is, on its side, far more rounded and less “aggressive” despite its more robust vocation. The length/diameter ration being different too, the watch feels visually compact and the surface covered by the watch on the wrist is distributed differently. The sides have a strong polished bevel, while the “twist” inside the lugs and the sides of the case are brushed. The case feels flatter, as the strap is attached higher. The crown is well protected, which is a benefit if you intend to use the Speedmaster Moonwatch as a proper instrument, however, the downside is that the crown can be fairly difficult to wind. The caseback, with its space-related inscriptions, needs no introduction anymore. Water-resistance is rated at 50 meters. Note that the shape of the new generation Speedmaster Moonwatch has been slightly updated, with a different bevel on the side, new pushers and crown, new caseback and slightly reduce lug to lug and height.

Bezel – Steel vs. aluminium

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another major point of differentiation between the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional and the Speedmaster 60th anniversary is the bezel. As for the rest of the watch, the bezel of the Moonwatch is a classic – dare I say iconic – element. Made of black anodized aluminium, it was one of the main evolutions of the second generation Speedmaster (CK2998), replacing the metallic bezel by this black insert. Providing far more contrast and far fewer reflections, it is a joy to use. Instantly legible, it has become a signature element of the Speedmaster. Here, in this context of a ref. 3750.50, we have a modern insert, with “dot beneath 70” and “dot diagonal to 90” – a configuration that appeared in the early 1970s. The new generation Moonwatch has a different insert, which respects the style of the 1960s editions.

Omega-Speedmaster-Moonwatch-Professional

Omega-Speedmaster-60th-anniversary-Editi

The Speedmaster 60th anniversary, being a reproduction of the first-ever model (CK2915-1) is featured with a base-1000 tachymeter scale, engraved and filled in black over a brushed steel base. A distinctive element of the earliest versions of this chronograph watch, it greatly participates in the unique appeal of this limited edition. Visually, it also somehow enlarges the watch, making it more present than when it’s equipped with the more classic black insert. Finally, once you wear the watch, you quickly understand why Omega moved to a black insert in the second generation, since the brushed metallic surface is prone to reflections and legibility in direct sunlight, but also in low light, isn’t as great. However, the look is really special and that’s what matters in this vintage-reissue context. The final historic touch is, of course, the faithful reproduction of the scale, with “dot over 90” and vintage font.

Dial and Hands

Now that we’ve been looking at the external parts of the watch, it is time to look at another important part of the habillage, the dial. Here again, there’s an undeniable common DNA, however, the two watches also come with their own distinctive elements.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Starting with the Speedmaster 60th anniversary model, something important to note (which isn’t completely reflected in the photos here) is the colour. While most Speedies have a pitch-black dial, Omega has decided to give this limited edition some patina, and the dial is actually dark grey – as if a black dial would have faded with the time. It isn’t always obvious, as the colour mostly reveals itself outside, under direct light. Inside, you’ll see a dark anthracite (almost black) dial.

DSC_9728.jpg As you can see here, in natural light, the 60th-anniversary edition has a faded grey dial.

For the rest, Omega has worked intensively on the dial to make it as close as possible to the dial of the original CK2915-1. As such, it has a flat profile (no step dial here, as it came later), tall hour markers, recessed sub-dial and, two important things, an applied Ω logo and historic fonts for OMEGA and Speedmaster. If you look closely at this watch and compare it to a vintage model, the most obvious difference is the position of the Swiss Made mention, now above the seconds track, while it is underneath in the CK2915. In line with the faded colour of the dial, the indexes are painted in a relatively dark cream colour, which gives some vintage charm to the watch. The brand could have been even more precise by doing the luminescent paint in white, yet it would have resulted in a too modern looking piece in my opinion. I particularly like the use of fauxtina in this re-edition context.

Omega-Speedmaster-60th-anniversary-Editi

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then, there are the broad arrow hands, a highly important and distinctive element of the first generation Speedmaster, of course, re-created here. Again, when using them on a daily basis and due to their polished surface, you understand why Omega moved to white professional hands, as they are simply more practical. However, these broad arrow hands are so iconic and so unique to this watch that they are one of the major elements to be loved here. In the same vein, the small hands of the sub-counters are so-called Alpha and are painted white, proving great contrast. Overall, an impressive job by Omega in terms of faithfulness and execution.

Omega-Speedmaster-Moonwatch-Professional

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here, we can easily assume that most watch enthusiasts, even the most novice of us, will know what they’ll be looking at. The Moonwatch Professional is a classic amongst the classics, and a perfect demonstration of form follows function, the result of multiple years of successive upgrades. The dial of this 3750.50 is basically the same as used by the brand since the mid-1970s, with some exceptions, such as the fonts and, of course, the use of LumiNova. Entirely focused on legibility, this apparent simplicity is the result of multiple tests in previous generation watches, and its monochromatic minimalism makes for one of the most versatile watches on the market. Timeless, ultra-functional, it is one of the most focused chronographs available. No wonder why it was used in space. The matte black surface features greenish-white luminescent material, short markers, white tracks and hands and everything feels natural to use.

This edition features white painted hands, a flat dial, a painted Ω logo and a modern, large seconds hand with diamond-shaped tip. Some important updates have been made on the latest generation of 2021, with multiple vintage-inspired elements (step dial, teardrop seconds hand, applied logo on some versions) that recalls the first Professional Speedmaster, the ST105.012. It also corrects an error found on most Speedmaster watches from 1957 to 2021, a seconds track with 5 divisions per second, which doesn’t correspond to the frequency of the movement.

Comparative-Review-Omega-Speedmaster-Moo

Overall, on the contrary of the 60th anniversary edition, no fancy features in this Professional context, so some enthusiasts could find this classic Moonwatch a bit “cold” in its execution. Personally, I like its ultra-functional, instrument-inspired look.

Movement

Here, the comparison will be short. Both watches are equipped with the same in-house movement, the venerable calibre 1861. Omega didn’t yet have its historical re-edition of the calibre 321 ready back in 2017, so the 60th anniversary relies on the classic hand-wound movement that was available back in the days. This tried and tested engine appeared inside the Moonwatch back in 1996. However, keep in mind that this is an evolution of the calibre 861 that appeared in 1968… After more than 50 years of loyal services, and even though I still enjoy the calibre 1861 in my own Speedmasters, Omega had to improve it with its latest technologies, which they did in the latest generation with the Calibre 3861.

Omega_Cal._1861_Chronograph_Movement.jpg The Calibre 1861 is at the heart of both models presented here. Source Wikimedia Commons

The Calibre 1861 is a cam-operated chronograph (Lemania-based) with a horizontal clutch, a synthetic Delrin brake, 18 jewels and a standard Swiss lever escapement. These two models are not chronometer-certified. It runs at 3Hz and boasts about 48 hours of power reserve. A solid, reliable engine that is pleasant to use and to wind, easy to service and that has some great historical background.

Bracelet

While both watches here are shot on leather straps, it must be said that they both were delivered with a stainless steel bracelet. The Speedmaster Moonwatch ref. 3750.50 presented here is originally equipped with a brushed band with polished inter-links – reference 1998/849. Measuring 20mm at the lugs and 18mm at the buckle, it was equipped with a rounded brushed clasp (with safety pushers) and engraved with the same mentions as found at 12 o’clock on the dial (logo, brand, Speedmaster, Professional). On later models, the adjustment pins were replaced by screws. And even though of impeccable execution and comfort, its design started to look slightly outdated and this explains why Omega redesigned it in the latest generation Moonwatch.

Omega-Speedmaster-60th-anniversary-Editi

As for the Speedmaster 60th anniversary, Omega delivered the watch with a brushed and polished flat-link bracelet that tried to mimic the look and feel of the original bracelets found on the CK2915. Once again of an impeccable execution, with adjustment screws and micro-adjustment clasp, the result is visually less convincing in my books. Too thick, too wide at the buckle, too heavy, too modern in its execution, it doesn’t bring the desired vintage feel to this watch. However, the Speedmaster 60th anniversary was delivered new with two additional straps; the brown leather strap you see here and a grey NATO strap. Here, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321 does a better job with its thin steel bracelet.

Look and feel

Basically, everything we said above is easily felt once on the wrist. No doubt, both are great representants of the Speedmaster family and are immediately recognizable as such. However, passed the initial look, they are drastically different.

Omega-Speedmaster-60th-anniversary-Editi

Omega-Speedmaster-Moonwatch-Professional

As you can see here photographed on my 16.5cm wrist, the two watches wear practically identical, despite an almost 3.5mm difference in diameter. The lug to lug being the same, this results in a 60th anniversary edition that feels larger than what the numbers suggest. The difference in height is almost impossible to notice and comfort is equal. Light and versatile, both can be worn at the city or even with a suit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One thing that changes a bit the perception on the wrist is the different position of the strap, which sits low on the 60th-anniversary edition and high on the Moonwatch, due to a more pronounced curvature of the lugs on the vintage-oriented model. This helps to have a watch that feels a bit more compact, but this is really marginal.

What really matters here are the aesthetics. The 60th anniversary watch has a completely different charm, and if it can’t beat the real patina of a late 1950s CK2915, it remains a watch that is far warmer, more “decorated” and less instrumental than the toolish Moonwatch. And admittedly, the Professional does a better job in terms of daily usability, since legibility and the way reflections are avoided are simply superior. This is why these watches are complementary, and not direct competitors. One is a must-have in all collections, the other is destined to more seasoned collectors with a strong passion for the Speedmaster itself.

The market

What we have here are two great Speedmasters to consider on the second-hand market. Indeed, if you want a proper vintage-inspired model, you’ll have to look at the Calibre 321, which means waiting list and EUR 13,900. Still, it is according to us here the ultimate Speedmaster now available. If you want a new Moonwatch Professional, you’ll have to look for the new Master Chronometer models here, with a starting price of EUR 5,900.

Comparative-Review-Omega-Speedmaster-Moo

In the case of the classic, previous generation Speedmaster Moonwatch, let’s say that finding one won’t be a problem. There are hundreds of watches offered, and a budget of EUR 4,000 will secure a full set example in mint condition. As for the Speedmaster 60th anniversary, it was released in a limited edition of 3,557 watches, so it isn’t an extremely rare model. Offered first at around EUR 7,000, you can still find almost new ones for sale just under retail price – but I’d expect the prices to slowly go up. It remains a nice opportunity to get your hands on one of the best vintage re-edition Speedmasters ever created.

Finally, if you’re into modern straight lugs Speedmasters, the FOiS, recently-discontinued, is also a model to consider if the 60th-anniversary model isn’t your thing and if you want a slightly more contemporary appraoch.

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Krásné oblekovky, přemýšlím, co jim vytknout, ale nic mě nenapadá ...

ZDROJ: https://monochrome-watches.com/longines-dolcevita-automatic-art-deco-sector-dial-l5-767-4-introducing-price/?mc_cid=0f9bb87afe&mc_eid=144e8b2da6

Longines Adds an Art Deco Sector Dial to its DolceVita Automatic

A new sectorised dial typical of the Art Deco period for a cool retro look.

17 hours ago | By Brice Goulard | 2 min read |

 
Longines DolceVita Automatic Art Deco Sector Dial - L5.767.4

To be fair, the Longines DolceVita has never been the most appealing watch of the brand. Sure, it is elegant and certainly well executed, but its rectangular case and “Cartier-esque” dials could never really compete with the attractiveness of the Heritage collection. It is one of those collections that is simply overlooked by the watch community. However, without entirely changing the recipe, the winged hourglass brand has just launched a new edition that might change the situation. Here’s the 2021 Longines DolceVita Automatic with a cool Art Deco Sector Dial. 

Longines DolceVita Automatic Art Deco Sector Dial - L5.767.4

As mentioned, the DolceVita is a collection that doesn’t attract much attention and is often overlooked – apart from being one of the watches worn by French President Macron. Till today, most of the models were equipped with highly traditional “flinqué” dials – a machine-applied process that looks like guilloché – and Roman numerals. Maybe a bit too shy and too classic.

 

Longines DolceVita Automatic Art Deco Sector Dial - L5.767.4

However, for its 2021 collection – which comprises a new Silver Arrow watch, a blue/titanium edition of the Avigation BigEye and new colours for the LLD – Longines has decided to spice up its rectangular dress watch with a cool dial. Surfing on the overall Art Deco concept of this watch and based on the success of its Heritage Classic model, Longines adds a two-tone sectorised dial with painted Arabic numerals. It is paired with blued steel hands for the hours, minutes and seconds. The central part with a crosshair has a matte silvered finished while the hour chapter ring on the periphery is vertically brushed with a metallic effect – classic elements of sector dials. Finally, a railroad minute track is printed on the edge. All in all, a very cool, retro-styled dial that drastically changes the look of this watch. The only thing that might jar is the date placed well in the centre of the dial.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The rest remains true to other medium-size Longines DolceVita Automatic watches. The polished steel case measures a restrained 28.20mm in width, while the height is of 47mm. The watch is protected by a curved sapphire crystal and the back is solid steel. Water-resistance is rated at 30m, classic for a dress watch. Inside the case is the calibre L592, an automatic movement produced by ETA with 45h power reserve and 4Hz frequency.

Longines DolceVita Automatic Art Deco Sector Dial - L5.767.4

This new Longines DolceVita Automatic with Art Deco Sector Dial is available on a light brown or black alligator strap. Its price is expected to be the same as the flinqué editions, meaning about EUR 1,500.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

More details at www.longines.com.

 

Technical specifications – Longines DolceVita Automatic

Case: 28.20 width x 47.00 mm height - stainless steel rectangular case, polished - sapphire crystal - solid steel caseback - 30m water-resistant
Dial: silver, sectorised, painted Arabic numerals and indexes - blued steel hands
Movement: calibre L592 (ETA A20.L011) - automatic - 22 jewels - 19.40mm - 28,800 vibrations/hour - 45h power reserve - hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: available on brown or black alligator leather strap
Reference: L5.767.4.73.0 - brown strap
L5.767.4.73.3 - black strap
Price: approx. EUR 1,500
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  • 3 weeks later...

Povedené Citizeny:

ZDROJ: https://monochrome-watches.com/citizen-mechanical-model-caliber-0200-la-joux-perret-2021-price/?mc_cid=05b3445aca&mc_eid=144e8b2da6

 

The Citizen Mechanical Model, With Caliber 0200 In Collaboration with La Joux-Perret

Luxury sports design and high-end mechanics for Citizen's latest offering.

5 hours ago | By Brice Goulard | 5 min read |

 
2021 Citizen Mechanical Model Calibre 0200 - NC0200-90E

Citizen is mostly known by a larger audience for its fairly-priced yet in-house produced mechanical and Eco-Drive watches. However, this would be reductive to the watchmaking capacities of the Japanese brand that has shown in the past proper expertise, with for instance the Eco-Drive Caliber 0100 (one of the most precise watches in the world) or a more traditional watch with a tourbillon. Today marks a new step in Citizen’s path for high-end watchmaking, with the unveiling of The Citizen Mechanical Model NC0200-90E, equipped with a new automatic movement, the Caliber 0200 made in collaboration with La Joux-Perret S.A. in Switzerland.

A new movement, the fusion of Japanese and Swiss watchmaking

Before even talking about the watch itself – and believe us, there’s a lot to love here – the mechanics are to be mentioned, as they represent an important step forward for the brand. As some of you might know, the Citizen Watch Group produces watches under the Citizen brand but also owns multiple other manufactures and watch names, such as Frederique Constant, Alpina, Bulova, Arnold & Son, as well as a manufacture of Haute Horlogerie in Switzerland, La Joux-Perret S.A.

2021 Citizen Mechanical Model Calibre 0200 - NC0200-90E

 

Benefiting from the experience of this renowned Swiss movement maker, Citizen had a view to developing new mechanical watches, with a focus on reliability, precision, high accuracy and more appealing decoration. The result of this close collaboration and technical exchange, made possible by this merger, is today being unveiled to the public, in the name of the Caliber 0200, a movement that shows a fusion of Japanese and Swiss watchmaking cultures. This new automatic movement is still entirely Citizen, as being designed and assembled in-house in Japan, but also most of the wide range of decorative finishing techniques utilized by La Joux-Perret can now be performed by the Japanese watchmakers.

The movement you see today, this new Caliber 0200, is a strong departure over the reliable yet entry-level automatic movements produced by Citizen for their accessible watches, for instance, the Promaster and its caliber 8203 (which is also known as a Miyota movement). The 0200 is state-of-the-art watchmaking that is meant to meet (and in fact exceed) chronometer standards, as well as pleasing the eye of watch enthusiasts with strong mechanical content and higher-end decoration.

2021 Citizen Mechanical Model Calibre 0200 - NC0200-90E

The Caliber 0200 is a classic time-only movement, with seconds displayed in a subsidiary dial, wound by a centrally-positioned oscillating weight. The movement is equipped with a free-sprung balance wheel, making it highly shock resistant as well as resistant to wear over time – with a better ability to maintain its stability of rate over time. The regulating organ has been created thanks to a new manufacturing process to ensure the necessary precision. Also, to achieve superior precision, the escapement is executed with LIGA fabrication process (a technology using photolithography and electro-casting, suitable for manufacturing of ultra-precise parts and microstructure parts). As such, the Caliber 0200 can achieve an average daily accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds, thus surpassing chronometric standards. Additionally, once the movement encased, the fully-assembled watch heads are tested for 17 days to ensure superior performance – testing at six positions and three temperature levels – and a Certificate of Compliance is included with each watch to certify the results.

2021 Citizen Mechanical Model Calibre 0200 - NC0200-90E

In addition to this focus on chronometry, the Citizen Caliber 0200 received the attention of watchmakers regarding decoration. Thanks to expertise brought by La Joux-Perret S.A. the movement has been finished with great attention to details, with bridges decorated with satinage – a multitude of hairlines to create a matte finish – and diamond-cut finish on the edges for great contrast. In the same vein, the gear train, the oscillating weight and the main plate are decorated. The movement itself runs at a 4Hz frequency, comprises 26 jewels and stores up to 60 hours of power reserve.

A Japanese take on the integrated bracelet

Besides the introduction of this new Caliber 0200, there’s also a new watch… and quite an impressive one, to be honest. Indeed, this new automatic movement is encased in a watch that marks a Japanese take on one of the most revered categories currently, the steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet. Thankfully, the brand has managed here to give this new “The Citizen” Mechanical Model NC0200-90E its own identity, respecting some of the classic codes but without copying existing icons. Just like the movement, the habillage of these new mechanical model is manufactured and hand-assembled in-house.

2021 Citizen Mechanical Model Calibre 0200 - NC0200-90E

The case, made of stainless steel, shows brushed surfaces highlighted by strong facets with polished accents. Angular, yet not aggressive in shape, the NC0200-90E is a nice combination of sportiness and casual elegance. Proportions seem – as of now we haven’t seen the watch in the metal – relatively compact, with a 40mm diameter and a height of 10.9mm. The bezel is simple, yet protrudes from the central container with a nice polished facet on the side. The case has a dynamic feeling and does have a certain Japanese style that is really not disappointing. It features sapphire crystals front and caseback and is water-resistant to 50 metres.

2021 Citizen Mechanical Model Calibre 0200 - NC0200-90E

The dial of “The Citizen” Mechanical Model Caliber 0200 is also showing great attention to details and greatly matches the angular case. Its black colour is adorned by a subtle texture, obtained by electroforming and creating a distinctive sand-ripple pattern. The display is classic, with central hours and minutes, yet with a small seconds nicely proportioned at 6 o’clock. And no date to distract from this sporty-chic look. In the same vein, the hands and indexes are nicely executed, with strong polished facets and matte or striped patterns on the upper surfaces. The dial also features the Eagle Mark depicting an eagle with its wings spread wide as well as an applied Citizen logo.

2021 Citizen Mechanical Model Calibre 0200 - NC0200-90E

Finally, the NC0200-90E is worn on an integrated stainless steel bracelet, with H-shaped links and a combination of brushed surfaces and polished accents, which blends greatly with the design of the case.

2021 Citizen Mechanical Model Calibre 0200 - NC0200-90E

Availability & Price

The Citizen Mechanical Model Caliber 0200 reference NC0200-90E will be released as part of the permanent collection this Autumn. The official price isn’t yet revealed but it will be around USD 6,000. We clearly look forward to spending some hands-on time with this new “The Citizen” and to experience what this unprecedented level of watchmaking and execution “a la Citizen” means in the metal. We should have the watch for a review around June 2021.

More details about “The Citizen” here, on the dedicated page at citizenwatch-global.com.

Technical specifications – Citizen Mechanical Model Caliber 0200

Case: 40mm diameter x 10.9mm height - stainless steel, brushed with polished accents - sapphire crystal with AR coating - sapphire caseback - 50m water-resistant
Dial: Black textured dial with electroforming process creating a sand-ripple pattern
Hands with matte finish and polished bevel
Faceted applied indexes with stripped pattern
Movement: Caliber 0200, made in collaboration with La Joux-Perret S.A. - automatic with central rotor - 26 jewels - 60h power reserve - 28,800 vibrations/hour, free-sprung balance - internal testing of 17 days, accuracy exceeding chronometer standards (-3 to +5 seconds a day) - hours, minutes, small seconds
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet with H-shaped links, brushed with polished accents, folding clasp
Reference: NC0200-90E
Availability: Early Autumn 2021
Price: Approx. USD 6,000
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Datumovka, která mě zaujala:

ZDROJ: https://www.watchtime.net/uhren/7-uhrenmarken-und-ihre-bestseller/?utm_source=watchtime_weekly_nl&utm_campaign=7-Uhrenmarken-und-ihre-Bestseller-050321&utm_medium=email

Uhrenmarke # 6 und ihr Bestseller: Nomos Glashütte Tangente Neomatik 41 Update

Nomos Glashütte: Tangente neomatik 41 Update Nomos Glashütte: Tangente Neomatik 41 Update (Bild: NOMOS Glashuette)

Eine echte Glashütter Manufakturuhr für 3.200 Euro – das gibt es nur bei Nomos Glashütte. Und es geht noch viel günstiger: Das Einstiegsmodell Club mit Handaufzugskaliber Alpha kostet nur 1.080 Euro. Dass sich die Tangente Neomatik 41 Update dennoch besser verkauft, verwundert nicht: Im Gegensatz zur Club bietet sie das Nomos-typische Bauhaus-Design und kombiniert dieses seit einiger Zeit mit einer selbst entwickelten Datumsanzeige, die die Symmetrie des Zifferblatts nicht stört. Darüber hinaus gibt ein Saphirglasboden Einblick in das Manufakturkaliber DUW 6101. Dabei handelt es sich um ein Manufakturkaliber der neuen Generation mit eigenem Schwing- und Hemmungssystem sowie Automatikaufzug, der die Werkhöhe nur geringfügig auf 3,6 Millimeter ansteigen lässt.

Gehäuse: Edelstahl, Saphirglasboden, 40,5 mm | Uhrwerk: Manufakturkaliber DUW 6101, Automatik | Preis: 3.200 Euro

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  • 2 weeks later...

Přehled historie náramkových budíků:

ZDROJ: https://www.watchtime.net/uhren-wissen/armbandwecker/?utm_source=watchtime_weekly_nl&utm_campaign=Fliegeruhren-mal-anders-5-moderne-Modelle-190321&utm_medium=email

Armbandwecker

Mechanische Uhren mit Weckfunktion

von Redaktion
am 16. März 2021
 

Eine mechanische Armbanduhr mit integriertem Wecker kann uns aus den Träumen reißen oder an einen wichtigen Termin erinnern. Geräuschvoll macht sich der Armbandwecker bemerkbar und ist so ein nützlicher Begleiter.

Inhalt:

 

Die ersten mechanischen Armbandwecker

Den ersten mechanischen Armbandwecker stellte Eterna bereits 1914 mit dem Weckerwerk Kaliber 68 vor, das mit einem Durch­messer von knapp 30 Millimetern eine Ableitung der damaligen Taschenuhrkaliber mit Wecker war. Die Weckzeit stellt der Träger über eine dreh­bare Lünette ein.

První mechanický

Armbandwecker von Zenith: Das Modell Alarm von 1920 Armbandwecker von Zenith: Das Modell Alarm von 1920

Auch Zenith brachte 1920 mit der Zenith Alarm ein Taschenuhr­werk an das Handgelenk, dessen Alarm 45 Sekunden andauert. Diese Uhrenmodelle sind heute selten zu finden, denn damals war diesen Uhren kein großer Verkaufserfolg beschieden. Warum? Zu dieser Zeit trugen die meisten Menschen noch Taschenuhren und so konnte sich der Armbandwecker nicht durchsetzen.

Vulcain Cricket: Die erste in Serie aufgelegte Weckeruhr wurde 1947 präsentiert. Auch die Präsi­denten der USA vertrauten über Jahrzehnte der Alarmfunktion der »Grille«. Vulcain Cricket: Die erste in Serie aufgelegte Weckeruhr wurde 1947 präsentiert. Auch die Präsi­denten der USA vertrauten über Jahrzehnte der Alarmfunktion der »Grille«.

Vulcain löst mit der Cricket einen Armbandwecker-Boom aus

Zwei Jahrzehnte später war die Zeit reif für den Armbandwecker. 1947 löste Vulcain mit ihrem Handaufzugsmodell Cricket einen regelrechten Wecker-Boom aus. Die Arbei­ten dafür begannen bereits 1943 unter der Leitung von Paul Ditis­heim. Mit der Un­terstützung des französischen Physikers Paul Langevin gelang es den Uhrmachern, einen besonders lauten Weckton zu erzeugen, indem sie mit doppelten Böden arbeiteten. Der innere der beiden Böden diente als Membran, der äußere war mit Löchern versehen und verstärkte so den Schall. Außerdem sorgte er dafür, dass der innere Boden frei schwingen konnte.

Das erste Cricket-Werk zeigt Besonderheiten: Eine Krone spannt Geh- und Weckwerkfeder. Rechts der Hammer, welche auf den Gehäuseboden als Resonanzkörper schlägt Das erste Cricket-Werk zeigt Besonderheiten: Eine Krone spannt Geh- und Weckwerkfeder. Rechts der Hammer, welche auf den Gehäuseboden als Resonanzkörper schlägt

Mit diesem System war es sogar möglich, wasserdichte Gehäuse zu bauen. Die Uhr wurde unter dem Namen „Grille“ bekannt, denn das Prinzip schaute sich der Hersteller bei dem Insekt ab. Das kaum zu überhörende – und zudem auch fühlbare – Schnarrge­räusch beschied Vulcain einen enormen Erfolg.

Vulcain: 50s Presidents‘ Watch Tradition 2016 vorgestellt: die Vulcain 50s Presidents‘ Watch Tradition im 42 Millimeter großen Edelstahlgehäuse

Die amerikanischen Präsidenten Truman, John­son und viele weitere trugen die “Grille” und ließen sich an wichtige Termine erinnern. Somit gewann Vulcain das Rennen um eine wirklich serienmäßige und -taugliche Uhr mit Weckfunktion.

Das Prinzip des Cricket-Kalibers von Vulcain Das Prinzip des Cricket-Kalibers von Vulcain

Problem bei der Konstruktion von mechanischen Armbandweckern: Platz

Bei der Konstruktion eines Armbandweckers kämpfen alle Hersteller mit einem Pro­blem: dem Platz. Denn das Schlagwerk, bestehend aus einem Schlaghammer und einem Reso­nanzkörper wie Gehäuseboden oder Tonfeder, benötigt Raum. Davon abhängig ist auch der Klang. Mit einem ebenfalls schnarrenden Ton trat 1950 auch Jaeger-LeCoultre an und präsentierte die Memovox. Die lateinischen Worte »Memorare« und »Vox« bedeuten »Stimme der Erinnerung«. Die Memovox wurde über eine zweite Krone eingestellt. Die drehbare Scheibe mit einem Pfeil unterschied die Uhr von ge­wöhnlichen Dreizeigeruhren. Platz fand das erste Weckerkaliber 489 aus dem Hause Jaeger-LeCoultre in einem 35 Millimeter großen Gehäuse.

Ur-Memovox: 1949 erscheint die Memovox. Ihr charakteristisches Gehäuse verbirgt das Kaliber 489 mit Handaufzug über zwei Kronen – je eine für das Geh- und Weckwerk Ur-Memovox: 1949 erscheint die Memovox. Ihr charakteristisches Gehäuse verbirgt das Kaliber 489 mit Handaufzug über zwei Kronen – je eine für das Geh- und Weckwerk

Es wurde von zwei Federhäusern angetrieben, die über jeweils eine Krone aufgezogen wurden. Der speziell konstruierte Resonator gab ganze 20 Sekunden lang einen gut hörbaren Alarmton von sich, der hör- und fühlbar an den gewählten Zeitpunkt erinnerte. Den Resonanzboden stattete die Manufaktur mit einem kleinen Stift aus­, der gegen den Weckerhammer schlug. Lag die Uhr dabei auf dem Nachttisch, wurde der freischwingende Boden in seiner Gänze ge­nutzt. So war die Lautstärke ausreichend, um ei­nen Schlafenden aus dem Reich der Träume zu holen. Am Handgelenk getragen ertönte nur ein dezentes Rasseln, da das Schwingverhal­ten des Bodens auf der Haut ein anderes war. 1956 führte Jaeger-LeCoultre die erste Automatikuhr mit Alarmfunktion ein, in der das Kaliber 815 verbaut wurde. Dessen Pendelschwungmasse zog sowohl das Uhrwerk als auch das Weckerwerk auf. 1958 folgte ein Modell mit aufgedruckten Zeitzonen, und es gab sogar eines, das an die ablaufende Parkuhr erinnerte. Mehr über den berühmten Armbandwecker Memovox von Jaeger-LeCoultre erfahren Sie hier.

Jaeger-LeCoultre: Polaris Mariner Memovox Neu: die Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox

Mechanische Armbandwecker aus Deutschland

Auch deut­schen Uhrenhersteller boten Armbandwecker an. Im Schwarzwald entwickelt Junghans das Kaliber J89, das 1949 zum Patent angemeldet wurde. Das Uhrwerk verfügte über drei Kronen: eine zur Einstellung der Weckzeit, eine für den Aufzug des Gehwerks und die Einstellung der Uhrzeit sowie eine zum Ein- und Ausschalten der Weckfunktion.

Deutscher Weckruf: Die Marke Junghans meldete 1949 die Minivox zum Pa­tent an. Dieser Armband­wecker mit dem Kaliber J89 bezog die Kraft für Wecker und Gehwerk aus einem Federhaus Deutscher Weckruf: Die Marke Junghans meldete 1949 die Minivox zum Pa­tent an. Dieser Armband­wecker mit dem Kaliber J89 bezog die Kraft für Wecker und Gehwerk aus einem Federhaus

Anders als bei den Schweizer Kalibern kam die Energie für Wecker- und Gehwerk aus einem Federhaus. Eine integrierte Sperre sorgte dafür, dass die Zugfeder während des Weckvorgangs nicht komplett ablief. Auf den Markt kam das Kaliber unter der Mo­dellbezeichnung Minivox – frei übertragen bedeutet dies “mit viel Stimme auf kleinem Raum”. Auch der Hanhart brachte 1951 mit der Sans Souci einen Armbandwecker auf den Markt. Auch hier bot ein Federhaus allein genügend Kraft für Wecker und Laufwerk. Nur sechs Jahre nach der Konstruktion erfuhr das Uhrenmodell einen immensen Wandel: Sein vollständig mit Steinlagern konstruiertes Werk wurde für einen Großauftrag aus den Vereinigten Staaten in ein billiges Stiftankerkaliber umkonstruiert und unter dem Namen “Timex Wrist-Alarm” verkauft. Von diesen Wegwerfuhren existieren heute nur noch wenige Exemplare.

Armbandwecker in den 1950er-Jahren

Mit dem Kaliber 230 präsentiert Venus 1953 ein Großserienwerk, das von zahlreichen Her­stellern eingeschalt und verwendet wurde. Aus­gerüstet mit 17 oder 20 Steinen schlug es mit beschaulichen 18.000 A/h. Ein Fenster auf neun Uhr verriet in Grün oder Rot, ob der Alarmmechanismus eingeschaltet ist. Auch kleinere Marken nutzen das Werk, weshalb es auf dem Gebrauchtmarkt einen hohen Wert verzeichnet. Denn je kleiner das Label, desto geringer war meist die Auflage – bis hin zum lokalen Juwelier und Goldschmied, der nur wenige Dutzend Stück fertigte. Mit zwei Lautstärken ging Pierce ins Rennen und stellte 1954 die Duo Fon vor. Ihr 13-liniges Werk mit 21 Steinen und Doppel­federhaus bot zwei unterschiedliche Weck­intensitäten – für die dezente Erinnerung am Tag und den wirklichen Weckruf am Morgen. Dieses Kaliber 135 war das erste und einzige eigene Weckerwerk von Pierce.

Armbandwecker in den 1960er- und 1970er-Jahren von Adolf Schild und Seiko

In Grenchen nahm die Firma Adolf Schild, kurz AS genannt, 1954 die Fertigung des Kalibers 1475 auf. Bis 1970 wurden davon 781.000 Stück erzeugt. Auch heute noch fin­den sich auf dem Gebrauchtmarkt zahlreiche Uhrenmodelle mit diesem Antrieb, zu teilweise günstigen Preisen. Auch das 1475 verwendeten – ähnlich wie die Venus-Werke – viele kleine Private Label-Hersteller.

In der Quadriga 2008 der Berliner Uhrenmarke Askania tickt das Adolph-Schild-Kaliber 1475. Kostenpunkt: 4.595 Euro In der Quadriga 2008 der Berliner Uhrenmarke Askania tickt das Adolph-Schild-Kaliber 1475. Kostenpunkt: 4.595 Euro

Nach dem Produkti­onsende in der Schweiz wurden die Anlagen für die Herstellung nach Russland exportiert. Der Poljot (die erste Moskauer Uhrenmanufaktur) führt den Siegeszug des Armbandweckers auch jenseits Westeuropas fort. Nicht zu vergessen Japan: Mit der Bell-Matic stellt auch Seiko ein Weckmodell mit automatischem Aufzug vor – jedoch erst in den 1960er- und 1970er-Jahren.

Seiko Bell-Matic, Automatik mit Weckfunktion, ca. 70er-Jahre Seiko Bell-Matic, Automatik mit Weckfunktion, ca. 70er-Jahre

1973 präsentierte Adolf Schild das auto­matische AS 5008. Ausgestattet mit Wecker, Tag und Datumsanzeige kam das Werk knapp zu spät – die Quarzkrise hatte zu dieser Zeit bereits begonnen. Nach nur einem Jahr wird die Produktion eingestellt, hohe Lagerbestände blieben liegen. Erst Jahrzehnte später – die mechanische Weckeruhr feierte ihr Comeback – wurden diese übrig gebliebenen Kaliber genutzt. Heute baut der Werkehersteller La Joux-Perret aus La Chaux-de-Fonds das AS 5008 als LJP 5800 weiter.

Berühmter Armbandwecker: Die Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox

Unter allen Weckern genießt die Memovox seit der erste Stunde das Image der Uhr für den aktiven Herrn, der auch auf internationa­lem Parkett zu finden ist. So präsentierte die Manufaktur 1959 ein Modell mit Weltzeitindikation. Eine Herausforderung stand bei den Armbandweckern aber noch be­vor: das Tauchen. 1959 erschien die Memovox Deep Sea. Ihr Alarmton ist auch unter Wasser zu hören, mittels einer dritten Krone stellt man die Lünette unter dem Uhrglas auf die Tauchzeit. Heute zählen diese Modelle zu den begehrtesten der Memovox-Klassiker und erzielen Preise im fünfstelligen Bereich – wenn sie überhaupt zu haben sind.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox DeepSea Memovox Deep Sea für den amerikanischen Markt. Im Unterschied zum europäischen Modell ist das Zifferblatt nur mit LeCoultre versehen. Das darin tickende Kaliber 815 ist mit einer Pedelschwungmasse ausgestattet.

Mechanische Armbandwecker heute

Bis heute sind Armbandwecker bei zahl­reichen Herstellern fest im Programm. Nun präsentierte Jaeger-LeCoultre wieder eine neue Memovox: die Polaris Mariner Memovox. Antrieb liefert der Polaris Mariner Memovox das hauseigene Automatikkaliber 956 mit einer Gangreserve von 45 Stunden, das 2008 debütierte. Wenn der Alarm ausgelöst wird, schlägt ein Hammer auf eine Bronzeglocke. Am Edelstahlband kostet die Taucheruhr mit Alarmfunktion 16.900 Euro.

Jaeger-LeCoultre: Polaris Mariner Memovox Jaeger-LeCoultre: Polaris Mariner Memovox

Der mechanische Armbandwecker verfügt über drei Kronen: Mit der oberen stellt man den Alarm ein; dabei dreht man die innere Scheibe auf dem Zifferblatt, bis das Dreieck auf die gewünschte Weckzeit zeigt. Mit der mittleren verstellt man die innen liegende Drehlünette, um Zeitabschnitte zu messen (eine vereinfachte Chronographenfunktion), und die untere dient der Einstellung der Uhrzeit.

Den Klang der Polaris Memovox von Jaeger-LeCoultre hören Sie im nachfolgenden Video: 

Neben der Memovox ist auch die Cricket noch immer aktuell, ebenso zahlreiche Uhrenmodelle mit histori­schen Kalibern von Adolf Schild. Die mechanische Uhr mit Weckfunktion ist kein Relikt der Vergangenheit. Es gibt sie noch heute – die Uhr, die an besondere Termine und Momente erinnert.

Glashütte Original: Senator Terminkalender Glashütte Original: Senator Terminkalender

Die Senator Terminkalender von Glashütte Original lässt sich bis zu 31 Tage im Voraus einstellen. Im Vergleich: Die normalen normalen mechanischen Wecker haben einen Vorlauf von höchstens zwölf Stunden. Das Datum wird bei neun Uhr eingestellt und die Uhrzeit bei der Sechs; die Glocke innerhalb des Datumszifferblatts verdeutlicht, dass der Alarm aktiviert ist. Im 42-Millimeter-Weißgold schlägt das hauseigene Automatikkaliber 100-13.

 

Tudor: Heritage Advisor Tudor: Heritage Advisor

Die Tudor Heritage Advisor ist eine Reminiszenz an die gleichnamige Weckeruhr die erstmals 1957 auf den Markt kam und bis 1968 hergestellt wurde. Im Innern der 42 Millimeter großen Titanuhr arbeitet das Automatikkaliber Eta 2892 mit Tudor-eigenem Modul. Ist der Wecker aktiv, zeigt das Fenster bei neun Uhr “on”; findet er keine Verwendung liest der Träger »off«. Die Einstellung erfolgt über die Krone bei zwei Uhr. Ob für die Alarmfunktion noch ausreichend Energie zur Verfügung steht, verdeutlicht die Scheibe bei drei Uhr. Kostenpunkt: 5.410 Euro.

Breguet: Marine Alarme Musicale in Titan Breguet: Marine Alarme Musicale in Titan

Die Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 von Breguet kombiniert die Alarmfunktion mit einer zweiten Zeitzone. Beim Aktivieren des Schlagwerks, erscheint in einem Fenster unterhalb der Zwölf eine Schiffsglocke. Die Alarmzeit wird bei neun Uhr eingestellt. Die Gangreserve des Schlagwerks kann bei zehn Uhr abgelesen werden. Die zweite Zeitzone mit Stunden- und Minutenzeiger wird auf einem großen Hilfszifferblatt bei drei Uhr abgelesen. ein Datumsfenster ist bei der Sechs platziert. Für all diese Funktionen verantwortlich zeichnet das hauseigene Automatikkaliber 519F/1. die 40 Millimeter große Armbandwecker gibt es in Titan, Weiß- und Roségold. Das abgebildete Titan-Modell kostet 26.870 Euro.

Patek-Philippe-Alarm-Travel-Time-Wrist2- Patek Philippe: Alarm Travel Time

Auch die Alarm Travel Time Referenz 5520P-001 von Patek Philippe ist GMT-Uhr und Armbandwecker zugleich. Über die Krone bei vier Uhr stellt der Träger die Alarmzeit in den Fenstern oben in 15-Minuten-Schritten und im 24-Stunden-Format ein. Mit dem Drücker bei zwei Uhr wird der Alarm aus- und eingeschaltet. Das Modell im Pilot-Design verfügt zudem über eine GMT-Funktion – der eingestellte Alarm richtet sich stets nach der Ortszeit. Wird der Alarm ausgelöst, schlägt ein Hammer für maximal 40 Sekunden mit 2,5 Schlägen pro Sekunde auf eine Tonfeder. Möglich macht die Komplikationen das Manufakturkaliber AL 30-660 S C FUS mit Automatikaufzug. Untergebracht ist das Uhrwerk in einem 42,2 Millimeter großen und 11,6 Millimeter hohen Gehäuse aus Platin, das bis drei Bar druckfest bleibt. Am schwarzen Kalbslederband kostet die Alarm Travel Time 220.000 Schweizer Franken.

Erster mechanischer Armbandwecker mit Vibrationsalarm

Der erste mechanische Armbandwecker mit Vibrationsalarm wurde von Richard Mille in Zusammenarbeit mit der Airbus Tochtergesellschaft Airbus Corporate Jets entwickelt und heißt RM 62-01 Tourbillon Vibrationsalarm ACJ. Der Alarm ist nur für den Träger der Uhr wahrnehmbar und wird auf dem Zifferblatt mit orangefarbenen Indexen zwischen drei und fünf Uhr minutengenau eingestellt. An- und ausschalten lässt er sich über den Drücker bei der Vier.

Richard Mille RM 62-01 Tourbillon Vibrationsalarm ACJ Richard Mille RM 62-01 Tourbillon Vibrationsalarm ACJ

Richard Mille realisiert die Funktion über eine drehende Achse mit einer Unwucht, ähnlich einem Automatikrotor, der für Schwingungen sorgt. Das Weißgoldgewicht dreht sich mit 5.400 Umdrehungen pro Minute und erzeugt so die spürbare Vibration. Neben dem Vibrationsalarm verfügt die RM 62-01 Tourbillon Vibrationsalarm ACJ über weitere Komplikationen wie eine GMT-Funktion, ein Großdatum, eine Gangreserveanzeige und ein Tourbillon. Der Armbandwecker besitzt ein 42 Millimeter großes Titangehäuse mit einer Lünette aus Carbon TPT. Richard Mille baut die Uhr 30 Mal und verkauft jedes Exemplar für 1,32 Millionen Euro. Weitere Informationen zum Armbandwecker mit Vibrationsalarm finden Sie hier.

Fortlaufend aktualisierter Artikel, erstmals online gestellt im Oktober 2012.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Jedny z nejhezčích oblekovek, co jsem v poslední době viděl:

H1 1877

Für den anspruchsvollen Uhrenliebhaber der feinste Materialien, beste Manufakturqualität und hanseatisches Understatement schätzt. Die schlichte Eleganz und klassische Ästhetik der H1 1877 ist beeindruckend zurückhaltend – ihre Ausstrahlung atemberaubend.

Hentschel_H1_1877_260916_027_2500x1400px

Der erste Blick fällt auf das platinierte Zifferblatt mit seiner samtigen Oberfläche, es changiert in noblen Grautönen und bringt das markante tiefblaue Zeigerspiel besonders gut zur Geltung. Ein leicht gewölbtes Saphirglas spannt sich elegant darüber, nur gehalten von einer feinen Fassung aus poliertem Weißgold.

Hentschel_Uhren_101016_072_2500x1400px-1

Die Silhouette der H1 1877 ist auffallend flach. Elegant schmiegt sich das feine Weißgoldgehäuse perfekt ans Handgelenk. Ihr gediegenes Gewicht unterstreicht den unauffälligen Luxus, sichtbar nur für den Kennerblick.

H1-1877-WERK-1-1100x616.jpg

Das exklusive HENTSCHEL HAMBURG Manufakturkaliber Werk 1. In absoluter Premiumausführung bildet es die technische Spitze unserer Manufaktur. Es wurde speziell für die H1 1877 zusätzlich aufwändig veredelt. Für ein außergewöhnlich intensives Lichtspiel im Uhrwerk haben wir ein besonderes galvanisches Verfahren entwickelt und die Oberflächen der Räderwerksbrücken platiniert. Der Glanz harmoniert perfekt mit den polierten Oberflächen des Weißgoldgehäuses der H1 1877.

Hentschel_H1_1877_260916_110_2500x1400px

Technische Daten

  • Ø 39,5 mm Herren-Größe
  • extraflaches Gehäuse aus aufwändig veredelten Materialien
  • Material-Varianten: 14 Kt. Weißgold oder wahlweise aus Edelstahl
  • beidseitig entspiegeltes, leicht gewölbtes und kratzfestes Saphirglas oben
  • Saphirglasboden
  • hauseigenes Manufakturkaliber Werk 1: Handaufzug mit kleiner Sekundenanzeige, handgefertigte Dreiviertel-Platine mit Handgravur, erhabene und verschraubte Goldchatons, Schwanenhalsfeinstellung, Perlage auf der Grundplatine, Streifenschliff auf dem Uhrwerkbrücken, doppelter Sonnenschliff auf den Aufzugrädern, rückführendes Gesperr, thermisch gebläute Schrauben
  • platinbeschichtetes, satiniertes Zifferblatt
  • flammgebläute Blattzeiger mit kleiner Sekundenanzeige
  • 5 ATM wasserdicht
  • Gangreserve ca. 37 Stunden
  • * Limitierung auf 99 Uhren pro Größe und Gehäusematerial

Preise

Edelstahlgehäuse inkl. PREMIUM-Servicepaket

Das Premium-Servicepaket beinhaltet:

  • Gutschein für die erste Generalüberholung
  • Kostenloser, jährlicher Frühjahrs-Check mit Wasserdichtigkeitsprüfung, Gangüberprüfung
  • Gutschein für zweites Alligator-Lederband
  • Individualgravur auf dem Gehäuseboden
  • Werkstattdokumentation
  • Hochwertige Holzschatulle
  • Reiseetui
  • 63 Monate Garantie mit kostenlosem Nachstellservice der Ganggenauigkeit nach drei Monaten
  • Ø 39,5 mm Herren-Größe: € 11.980,-

Edelstahlgehäuse inkl. STANDARD-Servicepaket

  • Ø 39,5 mm Herren-Größe: € 10.980,-

14Kt. Weißgoldgehäuse inkl. PREMIUM-Servicepaket

  • Ø 39,5 mm Herren-Größe: € 18.980,-

14Kt. Weißgoldgehäuse inkl. STANDARD-Servicepaket

  • Ø 39,5 mm Herren-Größe: € 17.980,-

 

ZDROJ: https://hentschel-hamburg.de/modelle/h1-1877.html

 

Edited by Vit
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Limitka, která se mi vizuálně velmi líbí:

https://www.helveti.cz/seiko-5-sports-gaara-limited-edition-srpf71k1

 

92250.webp

Hodinky Seiko 5 Sports SRPF71K1 jsou novinkou roku 2020 patřící do legendární modelové řady Seiko 5. Majitele zaujmou speciální designy inspirované hrdiny kultovního anime Naruto a Boruto...

Seiko 5 Sports hrdě představuje kolekci věnovanou japonskému anime seriálu Naruto a jeho neméně úspěšnému pokračování Boruto. Kolekce obsahuje sedm modelů inspirovaných ústředními postavami japonského anime se širokou fanouškovskou základnou - Naruto Uzumaki, Sasuke Uchiha, Shikamaru Nara, Rock Lee, Gaara, Boruto Uzumaki, Sarada Uchiha. Vyberte si Vám nejbližšího hrdinu a nechte na sebe působit jeho sílu skrze speciální edici hodinek! 

Gaara je džinčúrikim jednoocasého démona, kterého do něj při narození nechal zapečetit jeho otec, čtvrtý kazekage, aby z Gaary vytvořil mocnou zbraň k ochraně vesnice proti nepřátelům.

Model Seiko SRPF71K1 je kompletně stvořený podle vybraného hrdiny - zlatavá barva číselníku s pískovým vzorem odkazuje na schopnosti hrdiny, který má v sobě vtěleného démona, díky němuž dokáže ovládat písek. Na pozici jedné hodiny najdeme znak kanji pro lásku, který odkazuje k významu jeho jména – démon milující sám sebe. Dýnko je zdobeno znakem z pískové nádoby, kterou s sebou hrdina nosí.
Zlatavý číselník, s vyobrazením dne a data na pozici třetí hodiny, chrání tvrzené minerální sklíčko Hardlex. Ocelové pouzdro hodinek je opatřeno speciální PVD úpravou povrchu, doplňuje jej textilní nato řemínek. Hodinky pohání mechanický strojek 4R36 s automatickým nátahem a rezervou chodu kolem 41 hodin. Samozřejmostí je funkce zastavení vteřinové ručky při nařizování času a možnost nátahu korunkou. Strojek je možné pozorovat průhledným, speciálně značeným dýnkem. Předností hodinek je skvělá přehlednost daná použitím výrazných indexů a ruček. Vodotěsnost tohoto modelu je 100 m, s hodinkami tak můžete bez problémů plavat. Díky průměru pouzdra 42,5 mm jsou řazeny mezi středně velké hodinky, vhodné pro většinu pánských zápěstí.

Hodinky budou dovávány ve speciálním balení v podobě svitku, který dostane každý úspěšný absolvent Chuuninské zkoušky. Limitovaná edice je omezena 6500 ks pro celý svět.

ZDROJ

 

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  • 1 month later...

Flying On Auto With The Slimmed-Down IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43

The original IWC Big Pilot’s Watch is a classic. But it’s also an XL heavyweight that you’re constantly aware of. It practically takes a giant to wear the 46.2mm original inconspicuously. The new smaller version of the “BP” comes in a more practical size L. And, although I don’t want to give it all away already, flying on auto with the slimmed-down IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 is possible. You’re only aware of the watch when you want to be and that is a massive upgrade.

The new steel Big Pilot’s Watch 43 comes with either a traditional black dial or a more fashionable and contemporary blue variant. The big box we received at Fratello HQ contained the blue-dialed version and came with a brown and a very, very dark blue leather strap — it needs close inspection and a lot of light to discover it’s blue and not black — plus a five-link, brushed steel bracelet.

Both the blue leather strap and the bracelet were outfitted with a quick-change system so I used them both. The brown strap goes really well with the blue dial, but because the strap lacked IWC’s new EasX-CHANGE system, I stuck to the blue strap and the steel bracelet. For your information, a rubber strap with a quick release system is also available, but it wasn’t in the big box IWC sent us.

Flying On Auto With The Slimmed-Down IWC Big Pilot's Watch 43

183 grams of B-Uhr

Before I tell you about my real-life experiences with the Big Pilot’s Watch 43, let’s start with a little background and historical information. All modern Big Pilot’s Watches are descendants of the Beobachtungsuhr from the 1940s. That watch was built for bomber navigators to the precise specifications of the German Aviation Ministry. The 55×16.5 mm “B-Uhr” weighed a hefty 183 grams and was made by brands such as Wempe, Stowa, A. Lange & Söhne, and IWC. The B-uhr production spanned from 1941 onwards and the watch had an onion crown for ease of use while wearing gloves, and a specially designed leather strap. With the launch of the 46.2×15.8mm Big Pilot’s Watch Ref. 5002 in 2002 IWC re-interpreted the utilitarian B-Uhr and created a modern icon. The modern “Big Pilot” is bold, big, and can’t be overlooked — there are simply not too many sleeves under which it can hide.

With the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 we have returned to the extreme purity of the original B-Uhr designed over 80 years ago …

The only “problem” with the modern Big Pilot is its 46.2mm case. Many love it, want it, try it and then reach the conclusion that 46mm+ is simply too big. IWC reaches out by shaving off 3.2mm. The Big Pilot’s Watch 43 still stays true to the primal B-Uhr and also looks like a close relative of the 46.2mm modern version. “With the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 we have returned to the extreme purity of the original B-Uhr designed over 80 years ago and created a simple three-hand watch with no other elements on the dial. Despite its small size, the 43-millimeter case combines a bold look with great wearing comfort,” says Christian Knoop, Creative Director of IWC, during an interactive session preceding Watches and Wonders.

Flying On Auto With The Slimmed-Down IWC Big Pilot's Watch 43

Not a simple reduction

Knoop was really eager to design a new “Big Pilot” with just three hands and nothing else on the dial he explained: “The idea of a pure Big Pilot’s Watch with no power reserve and a date window has been a topic of discussion in the IWC community for years. I’ve always wanted to design a new Big Pilot’s Watch with three hands. Incidentally, the watch is not a simple reduction of the large model. We have carefully reworked and improved every detail, such as the size and proportions of the case and crown, the graphic elements on the dial, and the shape of the hands.”

Flying On Auto With The Slimmed-Down IWC Big Pilot's Watch 43

Magnetism is no longer a big threat

Interestingly, the soft-iron inner case to fend off disturbing magnetic fields is absent. The automatic in-house 4Hz caliber 82100 with Pellaton winding mechanism has been fortified with ceramic and silicon components making it naturally more resistant to magnetic influence.

It has a power reserve of sixty hours and comprises 192 components of which some are decorated with Côtes de Genève and perlage. How do I know? Because the movement is visible through a sapphire case back. So unlike its big brother and the original watch from eighty years ago, there’s no obstructing inner case.

I wanted to know whether this movement was entirely anti-magnetic, so I asked IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr. “No, the movement is not made entirely from anti-magnetic materials,” he responded. “We didn’t want to create a completely new anti-magnetic caliber, but the use of modern materials has contained the threat of magnetic disturbances sufficiently. And therefore we opted for an open case back.

IWC-Big-Pilots-Watch-43-IW32930X.011.jpg

The “BP 43” on the wrist

So what’s it like flying on auto with the slimmed-down IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43? It’s effortless. Unlike the “Biggest Pilot”, this “Not Too Big Pilot” is a wear-and-forget kind of watch. The short, curved lugs keep the 43×13.6mm case comfortably on the wrist. The “BP 43” on the wrist looks bigger than it is but wears smaller. I prefer the calf leather strap with contrasting stitching and four rivets over the bracelet. That isn’t because of its looks or comfort (the bracelet has a fine adjustment system and a tapered shape for comfort and wears fantastically), but because of my sometimes hindering and unnecessary obsession with historical correctness. Can you imagine the original B-Uhr on a steel bracelet? Looks very heavy, doesn’t it?

IWC-Big-Pilots-Watch-43-IW32930X.018.jpg
IWC-Big-Pilots-Watch-43-IW32930X.017.jpg
IWC-Big-Pilots-Watch-43-IW32930X.016.jpg

Functional luxury

The fact that the leather strap features a luxurious folding clasp and not a traditional buckle is something I had to get used to. A pin buckle might suit the character of this tool watch better, but the average modern man/pilot/navigator demands extra luxury from IWC in the shape of a folding clasp. It took almost no time to discard my preference for a pin buckle. The folding clasp wears slim and comfortable and makes putting on and taking off the watch very easy. This is luxury working functionally.

Flying On Auto With The Slimmed-Down IWC Big Pilot's Watch 43

Harmonious reflections

The same can be said about the dial in Le Petit Prince blue. When you quickly glance at the watch to read the time the dial under the convex sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating on both sides, acts purely instrumental. Readability is instant and effortless. But when you take a closer look the details come alive.

IWC-Big-Pilots-Watch-43-IW32930X.001.jpg

The Arabic numerals and indexes in clear white are crisp and sharp and yet have body and substance. The large, rhodium-plated hands are also more than just functional components because they not only indicate the time as precise as possible, they also have a very prominent look. The polished outline of the hour and minute hand reflects the light ever so subtly. And the metallic sheen of the dial harmoniously plays along.

IWC-Big-Pilots-Watch-43-IW32930X.027.jpg
IWC-Big-Pilots-Watch-43-IW32930X.024.jpg

Flying on auto with the slimmed-down IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43: take-off and landing

Flying the BP 43 is a breeze. Adjust the strap, put it on, click the clasp, and away you go. Wearing it for hours at a time is effortless. Only when you look at the wrist do you notice it’s there. But when you see it in the corner of your eye it’s also charismatic enough to immediately grab attention. And it’s a joy to look at. Also, because of the large crown with its typical shape and way it reflects light. The overall proportions are just right too and the combination of the strap and dial is mature yet sporty.

… IWC created a can-do-all interpretation of an icon …

Do I miss the date? Nope! Do I miss the power reserve indicator? Nope! The dial is perfectly balanced the way it is. It needs nothing and it lacks nothing. So, as a result, the new Big Pilot’s Watch 43, which is water-resistant up to 100 meters, is a multifunctional sports watch that pays homage to its ancient tool watch heritage. In the BP 43, IWC has sired a can-do-all interpretation of an icon that is going to be in popular demand.

IWC-Big-Pilots-Watch-43-IW32930X.025.jpg
IWC-Big-Pilots-Watch-43-IW32930X.023.jpg

The price for black dialed Ref. IW329301 and Ref. IW329303 with the blue dial on the leather strap is €8,950. The Ref. IW329304 with blue dial and steel bracelet costs €9,950. To put that into perspective, the 46.2mm BP has a starting price of €13,300. With the BP you don’t get the date and the power reserve indicator. But I can’t say that’s insuperable. And the wearability of the BP 43 exceeds its big brother with ease. Find more information about the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 on IWC’s website.

Please find and follow me at Lex Stolk • Instagram

Watch specifications

Brand
IWC
Model
Big Pilot's Watch 43
Reference
Ref. IW329301: black dial, brown calf leather strap. Ref. IW329303: blue dial, blue calf leather strap. Ref. IW329304: blue dial, steel bracelet.
Dial
Black or blue
Case Material
Steel with screw down crown.
Case Dimensions
43 × 13.6mm
Crystal
Sapphire glass, convex, anti-reflective coating on both sides.
Case Back
See-through sapphire glass back.
Movement
In-house caliber 82100 with Pellaton automatic winding system, central hacking function seconds, screw down crown Frequency: 28,800 vph / 4hz, and a power reserve of 60 hours.
Water Resistance
100m
Strap
Calf leather strap with folding clasp or steel bracelet .
Functions
Hours, minutes, and seconds.
Price
Ref. IW329301 and Ref. IW329303: €8.950. Ref. IW329304: €9.950.
Warranty
8 years
 
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