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Článek o sezónních modelech Grand Seiko.

ZDROJ

The Once US-Exclusive Grand Seiko 4 Seasons Collection Now Available Worldwide (Live Pics & Price)

Up until now a US-exclusive collection, the Grand Seiko 4 Seasons are now available worldwide.

a day ago | By Robin Nooy | 5 min read |

 
Grand Seiko 4 Seasons Collection Now Available WorldWide sbgh271 sbgh273 sbga413 sbga415

Virtually all brands are working with limited editions, special editions, boutique exclusives or even country exclusives. And Grand Seiko is no stranger to the concept, as evidenced by the recently launched Elegance SBGW267 & SBGW269 European Editions. In the same vein, the Japanese manufacturer had a collection sold exclusively in the US, but today it is opening up its 4 Seasons collection to worldwide sales. Offering a lot of the things we know and love about Grand Seiko, with four very handsome and distinct dials, it’s time to introduce the Grand Seiko Hi-beat SBGH271 & SBGH273, and the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA413 & SBGA415 collections to all of you not living in the US. 

Let’s make one thing very clear from the beginning: these watches are not new. The quartet of watches, dedicated to the passing seasons, was initially a US-exclusive collection but is now available worldwide.

Seasonal changes have been an inspiration for Grand Seiko before, with watches representing the unique characteristics of spring, summer, autumn and winter. The concept is comparable to the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT 4 Seasons collection we featured earlier in the year. All four watches presented to you today feature the same case and bracelet design, but differ from each other in material, dial and movement.

 

Grand Seiko Hi-Beat SBGH271 & SBGH273

First up are a pair of pure mechanical, high-frequency watches, dedicated to summer and autumn. As we’ve come to expect from Grand Seiko, each one features a nature-inspired textured dial. The SBGH271 (Summer) has a luscious green dial with polished and faceted applied gold indices. The horizontal texture is very subtle as this watch is more about colours than texture. A pair of gold hour and minute hands with a Zaratsu-polished edge match the indices. The date window, and the seconds hand are also done in a luxurious gold tone.

Grand-Seiko-4-Seasons-Collection-Now-Ava The SBGH271

The SBGH273 (Autumn) follows suit with its ‘summery’ sibling, albeit with a dark blue dial with vertical applied texture instead of horizontal. The inspiration comes from a moonlit night sky during the autumn season. This time around, the indices and hour and minute hand, as well as the frame surrounding the date, are done in steel. The seconds hand is the exception, which is once again done in gold, matching the applied GS logo at 12 o’clock.

Grand-Seiko-4-Seasons-Collection-Now-Ava The SBGH273

Powering both watches and visible under the sapphire crystal with GS ‘lion’ logo is the high-frequency 9S85 calibre. This in-house movement runs at a frequency of 36,000vph and uses 37 jewels. It is regulated to run within -3/+5 seconds per day and offers a 55-hour long power reserve.

Grand-Seiko-4-Seasons-Collection-Now-Ava

Both models come on a three-link steel bracelet with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat SBGH271 & SBGH273 retail for EUR 6,400. The SBGH273 will be available from November 2021 and the SBGH271 from February 2022.

Grand-Seiko-4-Seasons-Collection-Now-Ava

Grand-Seiko-4-Seasons-Collection-Now-Ava

Quick facts – 40mm diameter x 12mm height – stainless steel case and bracelet – sapphire crystal on both sides – 100m water-resistance – textured green dial (SBGH271, Summer) or deep blue dial (SBGH273, Autumn) – polished, faceted applied indices and hands (gold for SBGH271, silver for SBGH273) – framed date window – calibre 9S85, in-house – automatic winding – 37 jewels – 36,000vph (5Hz) – 55h power reserve – regulated to -3/+5 seconds per day – hours, minutes, seconds, date – EUR 6,400

Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA413 & SBGA415

The second pair of watches in the 4 Seasons collection is the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA4123 & SBGA415. Instead of a stainless steel case and bracelet, these two come in a full titanium suit. The industrial appearance of titanium perfectly matches the winter theme of the SBGA415 but at first, seems an illogical choice for the SBGA413. Contemplating a little longer, it starts to make sense as life begins to bloom again during springtime.

Grand-Seiko-4-Seasons-Collection-Now-Ava The SBGA413

The distinction between the two is on the dial and its decoration. The SBGA413 has a rich textured cherry-blossom pink dial, which stands out under direct light, revealing all its beauty. It is reminiscent of the cherry blossom forests in full bloom, near Mount Fuji. The dial has a similar layout to the stainless steel models, with the addition of a power reserve indicator between 7 and 8  o’clock.

Grand-Seiko-4-Seasons-Collection-Now-Ava The SBGA415

The second Spring Drive watch is the SBGA415, the most subdued of the quartet and represents winter. The dark grey dial almost matches the grey of the case and bracelet but is livened up under sunlight. Sharing a similar texture and dial layout as the SBGA413, with the exception of a blued seconds hand. The rest of the details, such as the hour and minutes hand, the framed date window and the power reserve indicator are done in the same way.

Grand-Seiko-4-Seasons-Collection-Now-Ava

Underneath a sapphire crystal caseback, again decorated with the GS ‘lion’ logo, you have a full view of the 9R65 Spring Drive movement. This movement is entirely developed and constructed in-house and combines the best of quartz and mechanical watchmaking. The hybrid movement features automatic winding, has a 72-hour power reserve and averages a +/- 15 seconds per month accuracy.

Grand-Seiko-4-Seasons-Collection-Now-Ava

Grand-Seiko-4-Seasons-Collection-Now-Ava

The Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA413 & SBGA415 both have a three-link titanium bracelet and are priced at EUR 6,700. The SBGA415 will be available from November 2021 and the SBGA413 from February 2022.

Quick facts – 40mm diameter x 12mm height – titanium case and bracelet – sapphire crystal on both sides – 100m water-resistance – textured cherry-blossom pink dial (SBGA413, Spring) or dark grey dial (SBGA415, Winter) – polished, faceted applied indices and hour and minute hands – polished seconds hand – framed date window – calibre 9R65, in-house – Spring Drive technology with automatic movement – 72h power reserve – regulated to ±1 seconds per day / ±15 seconds per month (average) – hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve – EUR 6,700

For more information, please visit GrandSeiko.com

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Zajímavé spojení funkcí a jejich rozložení, na první pohled jsem myslel, že je to Orient, který má takto znázorněnou rezervu nátahu:

ZDROJ: https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-mancheront-pacer-ingenious-pulsometer-watch-debuting-on-kickstarter-specs-price/?mc_cid=480d5c0ae7&mc_eid=144e8b2da6

The Mancheront Pacer, an Ingenious Pulsometer Watch Debuting on Kickstarter

It’s fair to say that we’re saturated with microbrands these days. Some have come and gone with a run of just one or two watches, while others have found success with burgeoning collections. Bangalore Watches and RZE are examples of those that punch above their weight with intriguing models that rival comparable pieces from established brands. Mancheront Watches is a new brand for 2021, and its first piece, the Pacer, is rich in features and includes an always ready pulsometer. The Australian microbrand came out swinging. 

Mancheront-Pacer-Pulsometer-Watch-Debuti

Founder Dilon is a successful architect, and his passion for launching a watch brand was five years in the making. Based in Sydney, Mancheront is a blend of two French words, “manche” (sleeve) and “forgeron” (blacksmith). Dilon was undoubtedly busy during those years, with no less than 25 case iterations, 16 dial iterations, 12 bezels and 32 factory visits worldwide to reach a final model.

 

Mancheront-Pacer-Pulsometer-Watch-Debuti

The Pacer shows a willingness to push beyond the basics, starting with a unique bidirectional bezel. The black stainless steel insert has a white pulsation scale, allowing the wearer to check their heart rate immediately by aligning the triangular mark with the seconds hand. Dials with such a scale require the user to wait for the seconds hand to first reach 12 o’clock. When the hacking seconds hand is aligned with the mark, you count 30 beats and then check where the seconds hand is on the scale. That bezel number shows your beats per minute. Simple, clever and useful for athletes, doctors and more. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At 41mm in diameter, the bezel is slightly larger than the 39.5mm stainless steel case and features a geometrical “wreath” pattern in lieu of more common knurling. It has a bit of a turbine vibe. The case height is 13.6mm, and lug-to-lug is 48mm. There’s a combination of brushed and polished surfaces, and an integrated, partial guard protects the screw-down crown. The caseback is solid but well thought with a series of six machined “petals” that create ventilation between the metal and wrist for comfort. A sapphire crystal with multiple anti-reflective coatings covers the dial, and water resistance is rated at 100 metres. The 20mm oyster-style bracelet is brushed with polished edges and secures with a butterfly clasp and security cap. Four extra links are included in the box for larger wrists. 

Mancheront-Pacer-Pulsometer-Watch-Debuti

The matte black dial has three complications – power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, date at 3 o’clock and 24-hour sub-dial at 6 o’clock. Four numerals in 5-hour increments are printed below the power reserve indicator for a more precise gauge. The hands and indices are a contrasting white and coated with C3 Super-LumiNova. It’s a sophisticated dial with a nice balance and offers plenty of features in tandem with the bezel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Powering the watch is a Miyota 9132 automatic, an affordable and proven workhorse. It has 26 jewels, beats at 28,800vph (4Hz) with a 40-hour power reserve. Functions include central hours, minutes, hacking seconds, power reserve indicator, quick-set date and 24-hour time. 

Mancheront-Pacer-Pulsometer-Watch-Debuti

The Mancheront Pacer is currently on Kickstarter with an Earliest Bird price of AUD 770 or USD 567, which is discounted 40% from the retail price of AUD 1,280 or USD 940. Additional Early Bird tiers include discounts of 35%, 30%, and 25%, and deliveries are expected in October 2022. For more information, please visit the brand’s Kickstarter page and website. 


Sponsored Post: This article is sponsored by Mancheront Watches. However, it reflects the writer’s opinion and has been written according to MONOCHROME’s editorial policy.

 

Technical specifications – Mancheront Pacer

Case: 39.5mm diameter x 13.6mm height (bezel is 41mm) – stainless steel (brushed and polished) – bidirectional rotating bezel with a pulsation scale – flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coatings – steel caseback with machined “petals” for ventilation – screw-down crown – 100m water-resistance
Dial: matte black – white indices in C3 Super-LumiNova – white hour and minute hands with Super-LumiNova inserts – power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, date at 3 o’clock and 24-hour sub-dial at 6 o’clock
Movement: Miyota 9132 – automatic – 26 jewels – 28,800vph (4Hz) – 40-hour power reserve – central hours, minutes and hacking seconds, power reserve indicator, date and 24-hour time
Bracelet: stainless steel oyster-style with butterfly clasp and security cap
Availability: deliveries in October 2022 – currently on Kickstarter
Price: starting at AUD 770 or USD 567 for Earliest Bird buyers
retail price of AUD 1,280 or USD 940
Edited by Vit
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Posted (edited)

zdroj: https://www.60clicks.com/ww2-military-watch-guide/

A Brief Guide to the Iconic Military Watches of World War II

Posted by Mike Johnson on September 13, 2016 in Articles, Collector's Guides, Vintage Military

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What is it about military watches that inspires such passion?

Is it the deep history and brutal conflict these little machines have endured? Or maybe it’s the incredible amount of human ingenuity that goes into making such a durable and reliable tool?

Whatever it is, our love for military time-pieces run deep, and to understand modern tool watches it’s important to look closely at the pioneering references that have informed the style, function, and history of the watches we wear everyday.

In this article we’ll explore some of the most iconic military wrist-watches of World War II, how they were used, and their inspiration for modern day watches, looking at important military pieces on both sides of the Allied and Axis forces.

WW2 Military Watch Visual Reference Guide

visual_reference_iconA handy three-page visual reference guide containing photos of dials and movements for 16 popular and collectible vintage WW2 watches from the United States, Britain, Germany and Japan.

Download PDF

america The American A-11

Size: 32mm – 36mm
Date Produced: 1940 – 1949
Forces Supplied: USAAF, Royal Canadian Air Force, The Royal Airforce, Soviet Air Force
Manufacturers: Elgin, Bulova, Waltham, Hamilton
Buy Online: Find Authentic Originals on Ebay
US Army training in Maryland during WW2

US Army training in Maryland during WW2

The A-11 Military Spec was one of the most commonly issued watches types supplied to Allied forces during WWII. The A-11 is not a particular model per-se, but instead a production standard that was implemented by the major American watch manufacturers during the period in several different variations.

Those companies were called Elgin, Bulova, and Waltham, and millions of their timepieces were issues to Allied Air Force and Army personnel during the start of the war. These watches were not only highly valued personal items for soldiers, pilots, sailors, engineers, and officers, but quickly become crucial equipment to complete mission critical tasks.

Vintage Bulova A11

Vintage Bulova A11

Needing to survive rough conditions on the battlefield, the A-11 military spec required these pieces to be produced to rigorous standards: dust and waterproof casing, extreme temperature resistance, and a robust movements with accuracy requirements of +/- 30 seconds per day and a 30 – 56 hour power reserve. Military watches produced today are still held to this same high standard of production.

The American A-11 is widely referenced as the “watch that won the war”, enabling Allied forces to systematically drive back the German troops in Europe both in the air and on the ground with precision and accuracy.

For collectors, these types of watches are fairly common, and decent examples can typically be acquired online for around $500 to $1000 dollars. Just be weary of purchasing watches based on photographs only, many of these watches have had parts replaced on the field and may not be completely original.

germany  The German B-Uhr
 
Size: 47mm – 55mm
Date Produced: 1941 – 1946
Forces Supplied: The German Luftwaffe
Manufacturers: Laco, Stowa, IWC, ALS, Wempe
Buy Online: Find Authentic Originals on Ebay
Focke-Wulf Fw 190A-3 of 11/JG 2 after landing in the UK by mistake in June 1942. Introduced in 1941 to supplement the ME 109, the FW 190 was probably Germany's best piston-engined fighter. MH 4190 Part of ROYAL AERONAUTICAL SOCIETY

German Luftwaffe FW 190A-3 in June 1942

The B-Uhr (short for Beobachtungsuhr, or Observer) is another iconic military watch style that was supplied to German Luftwaffe during World War II.

Like the American-made A-11, the B-Uhr was manufactured by several cooperating German and Swiss companies, namely: IWC, ALS, Wempe, Lacher & Co (Laco), and Walter Storz (Stowa).

Available in two primary configurations (A and B), the B-dial features a shorter hour hand aligned with the inner circle of the dial and a unique triangular marker at 12. The B-Uhr was an essential tool for Luftwaffe navigators, and it’s functional design provides a historical reference for many modern pilot watches.

Vintage German B-Uhr Observer Watch

Vintage German B-Uhr Observer Watch

Regulated to the highest of chronometer standards, B-Uhr watches were precisely synchronized using radio signals from the German Naval Observatory. These tools had to be deadly accurate in order to successfully intercept targets on the field.

At 55mm, these were huge watches, but they served a purpose. Along with an extended double-riveted leather strap, the B-Uhr was designed to be worn over flight jackets, and it’s massive size provided the navigator with unambiguous legibility.

Additionally, mechanical movements were housed in anti-magnetic iron cages to prevent electrical interference from flight equipment and the oversized onion-shaped crowns allowed smooth operation while wearing flight gloves.

Although complicit in unimaginable human suffering, the B-Uhr design is one of the most important tool watch designs in watch history. If you can’t find an original vintage version of this watch, modern reproductions are plentiful, with some modern B-Uhrs still being produced by the companies who produced the originals (namely, Stowa and Laco).

Japan The Japanese Seikosha “Kamikaze” Watch
 
Size: 48.5mm
Date Produced: 1940 – 1945
Forces Supplied: Japanese Air Force
Manufacturers: Seikosha (“Seiko”)
Japanese Kamikaze pilot preparing for his last flight

A Japanese Kamikaze pilot preparing for his last flight

As part of the Axis forces, the Japanese played an important role in the resistance during WWII, culminating in the horrific destruction of Hiroshima and Nagasaki by the American-dropped atomic bombs in 1945.

Prior to the Japanese surrender in 1945, the Japanese Navy was famously known for using “Kamikazes” – suicidal pilots who crashed directly into U.S. battleships – a last ditch effort to slow down the powerful U.S. Navy advance.

This rare watch, the Seikosha “Kamikaze”, was on the wrist of these imperial pilots as they made their last descent.

Seikosha Kamikaze Pilot Watch

Seikosha Kamikaze Pilot Watch

The name of this watch may sound familiar, and that’s because Seikosha was a branch of the popular watch company Seiko that has produced watches and clocks for military and civilians since the 19th century.

Like the German B-Uhr, the oversized case and crown were designed to be worn over flight equipment and operated with thick leather gloves. This Japanese pilot watch does have a unique feature though: a turntable bezel, allowing for marking of elapsed time during missions.

Because of the nature of how these pieces were used, finding one in decent condition is rare. Not many were made and most of them were destroyed. Some museum quality pieces that were salvaged from wreckages do exist, but can fetch upwards of $20k at auction.Seikosha Naval Aviators Watch on Olive NATO

United Kingdom The British W.W.W.

Size: 32 – 37 mm
Date Produced: 1940 – 1949
Forces Supplied: The British Royal Airforce, The British Army
Manufacturers: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jeager-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor and Vertex
Buy Online: Find Authentic Originals on Ebay
British Troops on Sherman Tank

British Troops on Sherman Tank

Great Britain declared war on Nazi Germany in 1939 after the famous Blitzkrieg invasion of Poland devastated Polish forces.

Needing a massive supply of wrist watches for it’s embarking armies, the United Kingdom developed a production standard called “W.W.W.” (Wrist. Watch. Waterproof).

With British watchmakers focused on building naval and aviation instruments, the British Ministry of Defense turned to neutral Swiss watchmakers to fulfill the massive need. In response to this request, a group of 12 companies collectively known as the “Dirty Dozen” all rallied to produce an implementation of the spec: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jeager-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor and Vertex.

Longines WWW Pilot Watch

Longines WWW Pilot Watch, one of the most sought after British WWW Watches

The specs may seem familiar by now: Waterproof, luminous hands, and chronometer grade movements, durable timepieces that can standup to the rigor of military life. Much like the A-11 and the B-Uhr, these were no-nonsense watches built for a very specific purposes and every soldier had one.

Unfortunately for collectors, many of these watches were destroyed in the early 70’s for fear of radioactive Radium-226, an element found in the l

uminescent material on the dials of these watches.

Hundreds of thousands of these watches were produced, but the Grana is by far the most elusive piece. With only 1000 actually produced, it’s often the missing link for those completionists looking to obtain all 12.

British WW2 W.W.W. Watch Produced by Jaeager LeCoultre

germany  The Glashütte Chronograph

Size: 39mm
Date Produced: 1940 – 1949
Forces Supplied: The German Luftwaffe
Manufacturers: Tutima Glashutte, Hanhart

 

UROFA Caliber 59

UROFA Caliber 59, the Flyback Chronograph

An often overlooked watch developed secretly in collaboration between the German government and Hanhart/Tutima, this Flyback Chronograph is one of the most historically important chronographs in all military history.

Used in aerial combat during the war, the German pilots were the only military combatants to have actual chronograph timing capabilities on their wrist, and the Flyback mechanism was an important technical achievement (and the first of it’s kind).

Tutima Flieger ChronographThis piece has some serious tool watch specs: Antimagnetic and waterproof case, shatterproof domed acrylic crystal, rotating bezel, radioactive lume, and the famous Flyback chronograph mechanism, which allows you to reset the chronograph while its running.

After the war was over and Glashutte lay in ruin, Russian troops dismantled the manufacture and moved all equipment and parts to Moscow as part of reparations. Russian versions of this watch using the same Calibre 59 can be found from this post-war period, and can be highly collectible as well.

Modern reproductions: Hanhart Pioneer, Tutima Grand Flieger Classic Chronograph 6402

 


Today, military time-pieces have made quite a comeback. What was once only desired by hardcore military collectors can now be found at JCrew and purchased from “luxury” watch brands (for a premium, of course). As fans and collectors of tool watches, looking at historic military timepieces begins to connect the dots of the modern tool watch landscape.

Luckily, we can enjoy these watches today without risking our life and limb, while appreciating those that did for us.

Edited by Vit
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před 12 minutami, MichalSVK napsal:

Trzby 2021, suverenny vitaz Rolex, na druhom mieste CARTIER (kto este vaha nadtym ze Santos nie je super hodinka).

https://www.handelszeitung.ch/unternehmen/rolex-bleibt-einsame-spitze-cartier-wird-die-nummer-zwei?utm=xing&xing_share=news

Zajímavé, čekal bych, že největší obraty dělají lidové značky s velkým množstvím prodaných levných kusů, z těch je na obrázku ale jen Tissot.

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povedené TUDORy, a ten tah s nýtyma ...

ZDROJ:

https://www.watchtime.net/watches-and-wonders/tudor-black-bay-chrono-sg-mit-goldfarbenem-zifferblatt/?omhide=true&utm_source=Watchtime_weekly_nl&utm_campaign=Tudor__Black_Bay_Chrono_S&G_mit_goldfarbenem_Zifferblatt_12042022&utm_medium=email

Tudor: Black Bay Chrono S&G mit goldfarbenem Zifferblatt

Bicolor-Chronograph mit neuem Zifferblatt

von Jens Koch
am 11. April 2022
 

Tudor zeigt ein neues Zifferblatt des 2019 vorgestellten Bicolor-Modells Black Bay Chrono S&G. Dem bestehenden schwarzen Blatt mit goldfarbenen Hilfszifferblättern wird nun ein goldfarbenes Blatt mit schwarzen Totalisatoren zur Seite gestellt.

Die neue Black Bay Chrono S&G mit goldfarbenen Zifferblatt Die neue Black Bay Chrono S&G mit goldfarbenen Zifferblatt

Wie bisher fertigt Tudor Krone, Drücker, Lünette und die mittleren Glieder des Armbandes aus Gelbgold. Auch bei Tachymeterskala, Indexen und Zeigern setzt die Rolex-Schwester auf Edelmetall. Das 41 Millimeter große Gehäuse besteht aus Edelstahl und beherbergt das Automatikkaliber MT5813, das auf dem Breitling-Kaliber B01 basiert. Tudor stattet dieses jedoch mit dem selbst entwickelten Regulierorgan mit Siliziumspirale und dem eigenen Rotor aus und lässt es von der COSC als Chronometer zertifizieren.

 

 

Der Chronograph übernimmt die charakteristischen Elemente aus Tudors Modellhistorie: Das gewölbte Saphirglas und das ebenfalls gewölbte, mattschwarze Zifferblatt verweisen auf die erste Tudor-Taucheruhr von 1954. Die typischen Snowflake-Zeiger gehören seit 1969 zur Marken-DNA.

Wristshot des neuen Black Bay Chrono S&G von Tudor mit goldfarbenem Zifferblatt Wristshot des neuen Black Bay Chrono S&G von Tudor mit goldfarbenem Zifferblatt

Wie schon beim ersten Tudor-Stopper werden auch beim aktuellen Modell durch einen weiteren Umbau 45 statt der üblichen 30 Chronographenminuten gezählt. Dank verschraubter Krone und Drücker bleibt die Black Bay Chrono S&G bis 200 Meter vor eindringendem Wasser geschützt und ist damit für den Einsatz im und unter Wasser geeignet. Da Gelbgold jedoch weicher ist als Edelstahl, sollte der Träger aufpassen, dass er nicht mit scharfkantigen Muscheln oder Felsen in Berührung kommt. Der Bicolor-Stopper wird entweder am Edelstahl-Gelbgold-Band für 6.760 Euro, am braunen Lederband mit abnehmbarer Manschette oder am schwarzen Textilband für je 5.590 Euro getragen. jk

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